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Front Gas Block Threads Stripped, Whats the most reasonable solution


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I have a saiga 12 that has a good portion of the gas block threads and original handguard screw threads stipped to the point that the handguard wont properly screw on to satisfactory level. What do you guys suggest within reason to correct this issue?

 

I'm guessing that I will have to remove and re-tap the gas block to a different thread that would be a larger diameter and also change to a reciprocating screw. I'd like to think I'm wrong or maybe I missed the surplus or aftermarket replacement that would allow me to keep it as it should be.

 

Thanks for any help you might offer

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I think you are stuck drilling out and going up one size as you thought. Unless you want to convert it.... item #4?

 

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173845

 

That gas block for sale is for a 030 model.  If you have anything other than a 030 it will not work. 

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I think you are stuck drilling out and going up one size as you thought. Unless you want to convert it.... item #4?

 

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173845

 

That gas block for sale is for a 030 model.  If you have anything other than a 030 it will not work. 

 

Guess I should have highlighted that part before...

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I think you are stuck drilling out and going up one size as you thought. Unless you want to convert it.... item #4?

 

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173845

 

That gas block for sale is for a 030 model.  If you have anything other than a 030 it will not work. 

 

Guess I should have highlighted that part before...

 

 

Convert it to what exactly?  Proposing to change the standard Saiga-12 gas system to the 030's gas system is a huge undertaking and opens up a whole can of worms.  Not only are the gas blocks different, the carrier/piston are different as well.  It's been documented here somewhere on the forum that it can be done.  But it's not really a feasible option for most members who have limited funds.  Not only that, you'll be needing the correct tools and skills to go along with it.

 

For the average person "converting" from the sporter configuration to the pistol grip is one thing, proposing to swap out gas systems is a whole different story.  The OP would be better suited to either find the correct gas block or part out his build and use those funds to buy another firearm. 

 

To the OP:  Sorry I can't help you out with finding a new gas block.  They do come up on the forum's WTS section from time to time but you better be watching closely as they go quick.  I think I've seen two in the last year.  I have also recently read that someone is planning on manufacturing American made gas blocks.  Lurk around and you may find out more. 

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I didn't say it would be an easy "swap out a couple of parts conversion", but just pointing out options here. Replacing the gas block with an OEM of aftermarket copy (when someone gets around to making one) is obvious, as is the option that he already knows would work, and would only require labor and an inexpensive tap...

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If you can send me some good pics of the stripped threads I might be able to help. I do have a tap for the threads in the gas block so you could send it to me to fix if it's not beyond repair.

 

 Edit >  As for the other threads for the HG screw that is really a non issue. I can prolly fix them too with a modified screw made into a tap. If not I can tap them to a different thread that will work.

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Howdy....   Ace Hardware? Ya all got some JB WELD in stock?

bco4.jpg

 

 

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NOOOOOOOOO!!!!


If you can send me some good pics of the stripped threads I might be able to help. I do have a tap for the threads in the gas block so you could send it to me to fix if it's not beyond repair.

 

 Edit >  As for the other threads for the HG screw that is really a non issue. I can prolly fix them too with a modified screw made into a tap. If not I can tap them to a different thread that will work.

If pulling the gas block is not within the scope of your ability, or you don't have the tools and a good place to do that - Cobra is the man that can help you out.

Edited by 7.62m43
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I have pulled off quite a few gasblocks for saiga 12s and although its not my favorite thing to do I have the ability. I appreciate the advice and offer from cobra, I will get a picture when possible, not sure if i can capture the problem well enough to be able to see if its too far gone, I was contemplating trying to shorten the screw and see if it grabs or using a self tapping screw, but ideally i would like it to use the correct hardware

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Obviously, if the threads are truly "stripped", chasing them with a tap is not going to help, and re-tapping to a larger size is the best choice. Shortening the screw or replacing it might allow it to make contact with some remaining threads which will work for a while, but if the problem that is causing this to happen is not dealt with, it will fail and you will be right back to re-threading.

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Really not gonna be able to tell much from a photo so you would need to remove it and send it to know for sure. You gotta take it off anyway to replace if necessary is what I was thinking.

 Again the screw in the bottom is a non issue. All it needs to hold is a sling loop so any screw that retains the original sling loop will work.

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That's an M8 x .75 RH tap. I just picked one up, because they only partly cut the threads on my IZ 108 and the rail I have mounted there needs a deeper screw for me to fully trust it. I've just not been in much of a hurry to take the block off and fix the threads.

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M8 x .75 ??? 

 

Mine takes a 10/32 thread. 

The 10-32 (10 gauge, 32 threads per inch) is very close to the M5x0.8 mm/thread. The 1/32-inch thread is 0.03125 inch per thread. Multiply by 2.54 cm/inch and you would get 0.794 mm per thread, which may be tolerably close to 0.8 mm of the metric screw. The 10-gauge screws major diameter of 0.1891 is going to be slightly smaller than 0.19685 of the 5 mm screw (by approximately 8 thousandths). Since a "tight fit" is in the range of 2 thousandths, you will have trouble torquing the wrong sized screw into a 5mm threaded hole or nut.

 

What about a helicoil? Should fix it just fine.

While using a helicoil would work, it would require a much larger hole to be drilled in the gas block than if he just re-drilled and tapped for the next size larger machine screw as was mentioned in the original post.

Edited by 7.62m43
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Another trick for 'tightening a loose screw hole is to use a center punch on either side to displace some metal back into the hole. Be careful, it works well enough that if you do too much you will have to re-tap the hole as it can get TOO tight!

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The replacement metric screw I tried with mine would not thread properly.  10/32 worked perfectly.

M5x08 is the correct factory thread. 10/32 will work, but you will notice there is still some wiggle when you thread it in a couple of turns due to its slightly smaller diameter as 7.62mx43 already stated. It stiffens up the further it is threaded, and will secure the handguard just fine. I currently have a 10/32 on mine because like an idiot I misplaced the original.

 

To the op, try chasing the threads first with a 10x32 tap. If the threads are slightly boogered up it might fix the issue. You could also find the actual metric tap, which would work better. At this point you have nothing to lose but a couple of bucks. If not drill it out and tap it to the next size up. If you do this without removing the gas block, you will need a flat bottomed tap as opposed to the tapered pointed tap. If you go this route, I would also recommend going with SAE strictly due to a wider variety of replacement fasteners.

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A good welder can plug it, drill it and tap it again. It's really not hard to do but I wouldn't just go hand any joe welder my gun, either..


Before 030's/VEPRs became available guys would do the conversion.. maybe hit some of them up for the old gas block. Just a thought.

Edited by S12KS-K
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