Side mount removal possible by DIYer?

[Kingchedr 12]

That side mount on my saiga 12 gets in the way of my stock folding I don't ever plan on using it and I would actually like it gone? Has anyone done this before? Am I wrong for having these thought in my head? Opinions advice and pics would be greatly appreciated thank y'all:)

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

It's an easy fix. Just drill out the front two rivets and then grind the rear one down flush with the rail. You don't want to drill it all the way out because it holds the rear block in place. With the front two removed and some penetrating oil soaked into the rear, you can rotate the rail back and forth and work it off what's left of the rivet. With the rail off place enough steel shims inside the receiver to give very solid backing to the rivet on the inside while you press or carefully hammer the outside to peen it out and keep it from loosening & falling out inside. Or if you have access to the right tools you can use them to buck the rivet. Just don't remove it without putting something securely in place there.

Again if pressing or hammering it be sure to give it a very solid backing including having the opposite rivet tight against an anvil or something solid.

[mordamer 13]

I have done exactly what Cobra described. An easy way to fill the 2 left over holes is with the plastic plugs that Carolina Shooter's Supply sells with their conversion kits.

[HB of CJ 1,263]

On both my S12 and S308 I had to remove and re install re align the side receiver scope mount rail. Just Drimel tool the rivets flat, then center punch and drill out the rivets. Go kinda slow. My rivets were quite soft and drilled out easy.

 

The reason why I had to re align both of mine was that as factory mounted, the rails were way way off right to left and top to bottom. The Eotecks were looking at the moon and the barrels were both pointed somewhere towards China.

 

Or was it the other way around? Both were off about the same. I have forgotten which direction. Getting kinda old here. I got them close enough that both Eotecks were almost exactly adjustment centered with the bores nearly dead on.

 

I used laser bore sighters. Automotive valve adjustment feeler gage of the appropriate thickness was used to properly shim the rails right to left. Not needed if you are just going to remove the rail.

 

If re shimming, you do not have to e long ate the middle hole. Only both ends for adjusting right to left.

 

I think somebody sells special rubber plugs to plug the holes? Or you can just leave the holes alone. Each has his fancy. I just used short hex bolts, nuts and lock washers with Loctite to remount. Hope this helps kinda. HB of CJ (old coot)

 

for some reason like old age I can not spell worth a darn tonight.

[BpS12 512]

I did as Cobra said for my bullpup build. It's slow but not difficult.

[Kingchedr 12]

Thanks yall!! You guys are the fucking best! Once I remove it will the finish be left like it is under plate that covers the trigger opening?? I understood everything you just said cobra up until the rear rivet? I have like almost 0 tooling experience so I don't know what steel shims are and all I have in my tool box is a dremel a hammer a screw driver and a couple punches no shims or anvils :,( lol... for my first saiga 132 conversion I had no idea that the righty tighty lefty loosey concept also applied to drilling so I drilled the rivets on the bottom plate for 4 days before I realized I was doing it the wrong way after I pressed the button to make it drill to the right it took me 30 minutes-.- so speak English to me guy I'm clueless here Lol I think kinda understood tho any chance you guys can post pics of your finished product for visual aid?

Cobra for being a person who has a business working on these firearms I think it's pretty fucking cool of you to get on here all the time n share info with ppl like me bro. My respects to you sir

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

Thanks bro I do my best to give a little time when I can. Nice to be appreciated for it once in awhile.

 

Basically all that's important is making sure the rearmost of the three rivets holding the rail in place stays firmly in place where it is because it is one of only 3 that keep the rear block secured in place (called a rear trunnion by some but it's not...). The front two can be removed and left open or plugged with pop in caps. When you only grind down the rear one to the surface of the rail you are leaving enough length on the shaft of the rivet for it to mashed flat after the rail is twisted loose and off. The way a rivet works in by going through two pieces then being squashed on the protruding end, securing itself in place inside the hole as well as mushroomed or "peened" out on the opposite side of the head so it is impossible to back out or come loose. This is why IMO rivets are far superior to welds because they can fail or even crack the steel from overheating.

 To be able to smash the rivet though you will need to have the opposite end from what you are pressing or hammering, very securely backed by steel so you don't just drive the rivet out and lose all the holding power.

 

If you don't have the means or can't find someone to do it right then drill it out and put a proper sized machine screw in there with locktite and nut to the inside. On a bullpup you won't see it anyway.

[Kingchedr 12]

No man thank you bro! I didn't even think of a screw and nut! I still wanna try the first method you suggested but it's reassuring to know of a method in case I screw up any ideas on what I can use too to back the rivet when I start beating it a household item or something cheap I can go buy at Home Depot???

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

You might get away with a socket and a couple of chisels or something. You need to completely fill the space between the two oposing rivet heads on the inside of the receiver. Then sit the outer side of the one on the RH side on a piece of hardwood on a cement floor or driveway or something...

[BpS12 512]

Something like a couple deadbolt plates and a small block of wood under them may work. Also your local hardware shop should have some sort of small anvil. I used the horn of my 125#er but a secured small one should work as well. Maybe even a thick steel rod clamped to a table. The problem with anything round will be balancing. An extra set of hands would help or wood block, even books stack at both ends just so everything sits stable.

[Kingchedr 12]

Perfect! Thanks y'all now my only problem is making up my mind about the whole deal all signs point to yes, that thing gets on my nerves it gets in the way I don't use it what other excuses am I missing? Thanks for the awesome advice guys:)

[RXtacy 1]

It really is easy. Just be prepared to do some refinishing as the surface under the rail is unfinished.

 

 

Then after weld and grind.

 

[pedal2alloy 206]

If you are going to weld, I'd just drill that rear rivet to .10" below the surface and give it a plug weld.

[RXtacy 1]

If you are going to weld, I'd just drill that rear rivet to .10" below the surface and give it a plug weld.

 

That would definitely work. I simply used a press on mine. Doesn't sound like the OP has welding equipment though.

[Kingchedr 12]

Would this anvil work for my purpose??? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004YF8ASQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SL500_SS115

[pedal2alloy 206]

Would this anvil work for my purpose??? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004YF8ASQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SL500_SS115

 

No, that thing only weighs about 1 lb.  Also, it is for precision work.  What you want is a bucking bar.  There are all kinds depending on the space you have to work in around the rivet.

 

 

 

You can clamp it in a vise

[Kingchedr 12]

Lol thanks something told me to ask, How much does that cost I'm due to get married July 12 and money is TIGHT between the jewelry and all the other crap that goes into a wedding, my saiga 12, lr 308 build I barely have money to eat sometimes haha can that be found at a lowes or Home Depot?

[pedal2alloy 206]

It's a specialty item, usually sold by industrial supply places to aircraft or other manufacturing that uses rivets.  If you are only doing the one rivet, I would just take it to a welder and do a plug weld and smooth it over.  You can also fill your other holes then too.

[G O B 3,516]

To remove, cut off all 3 rivit heads. Soak with penetrating oil. Worry the mount off. A few taps with a chisel and hammer in several different directions should loosen enough to slide a thin screwdriver under it, or grab it with channel locks a worry it off. The 2 front rivits can be pushed out with the channel locks by placing a 1/4-20 or maybe a 5/16 nut over the head inside the reciever and squeezing. The rear rivet that goes thru the trunnion can be reset by placing the other side on a piece of leather - like an old belt,supported by a cement floor or sturdy bench  and using a small ball peen hammer the re-form the head on the cut side.

[BpS12 512]

Check Lowes or a Home Depot type place for an anvil. Even Harbor Freight if you've got one close.