rsteciak 4 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) So I got my Bulgy 74 style FSB and brake from K-Var today. The parts look pretty good but I was surprised to see that the FSB is not drilled for the pins. I need some help with the following: What size bit do I need to match up with the pins that I bought with the FSB? I assume I'll be drilling from the "dimple" side of the FSB (shown below)? Anything else I should do to make sure I set this up right? Thx. Edited March 19, 2014 by Dinky Deb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 I believe the pins are 3mm. I made my own 1/8" pins. To install, just square it up to the drill press and drill. Was pretty straight-forward. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dashowdy 141 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 1/8 inch is easier and fits just fine, main thing is drilling straight if ya dont have a press, which I did not Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rsteciak 4 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 I'll try to 1/8" bit on my press and see how it goes. As I've heard mentioned before, it seems that if I line up the notches on the barrel with the pin locations on the FSB, I'll end up having the barrel protrude about an 1/8" beyond the FSB. I assume that's normal with this set-up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thebuns1 4,323 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 The FSB should be flush, ideally. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) Hero is right, it should be flush ideally. However, I think on the new Saigas they are pinning the FSB's on and not using dimples. When the FSB is removed and replaced with a Bulgy 74 FSB, and line the pins up with the factory notches in the barrel, it will make it slightly protrude. From what I understand, this is not a problem. Trying to find the time to do this. I have a pinned FSB. Gonna remove it and replace with Bulgy FSB. Hopefully can get to it tonight. Edited March 19, 2014 by Semper299 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rsteciak 4 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) Yes, the factory FSB on my 2013 model was pinned without any dimples and the barrel slots do appear to line up with the soon to be drilled holes on the Bulgy FSB. Since that's the case, I'll like to use the existing barrel notches vs cutting into the barrel. I've read on some other posts that this protrusion of the muzzle is not a problem but just wanted to check. It appears that it won't interfere with the 74 style muzzle brake. I'll find out soon and let you know. I think using the existing barrel notches will help to prevent my putting the FSB off-center and end up with a canted site. Edited March 19, 2014 by Dinky Deb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 My factory FSB was canted quite a bit, so I ended up drilling all new holes. I didn't want to use the canted grooves made by the factory pins, so I didn't press the FSB all the way, I left it about 2mm from flush. Everything worked fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigChongus 765 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Go with a 3mm bit first. You can get them at Harbor Freight for $3/2 bits. If you mess up, you can always get a second chancy by going up to 1/8". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rsteciak 4 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) Good idea to start with a smaller bit first. I'll work up to 1/8, if needed. I've got plenty of bits and a decent drill press. My factory FSB seemed pretty straight so I'll try lining up the existing barrel notches and see how it goes. Can always drill new notches that bring it flush to the muzzle end, if things don't work out. Had to do a bit of fitting to get the FSB onto the barrel but the notches lined up perfectly so the site is nice and straight. Edited March 19, 2014 by Dinky Deb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 although I buy a lot of small crap at Harbor Freight, I would NOT use a HF drill bit to drill pin channels. the HF bits are brittle and more likely to break. trust me, you don't want to deal with a chunk of broken drill bit stuck in the FSB. spend a few bucks on a quality cobalt or titanium bit, regardless of which size you use. buy at Fastenal, McMaster Carr if you want the metric size. when you drill, insert the bit into the chuck as far as possible. this will prevent it from flexing and snapping. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rsteciak 4 Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Have a good supply of quality drill bits. I ended up going with 1/8" to get the original factory FSB pins to fit back in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I beat the crap out of my FSB, and it did not budge. Tried side to side as well, no joy. My last conversion I just cut two parallel lines down the fsb and the shroud and whacked the tower. It fell off in two pieces. I am guessing I will have to do the same with this one, even though it is pinned on. The good news is that the factory pins and the pins that came with the bully fsb are the same size. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rsteciak 4 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 I couldn't get my factory FSB off either by whacking it after taking out the pins. Like you, I ended up having to cut it horizontally with a dremel. I thought that since it was unthreaded it would slide off, but no way. Now that I've done it once, I think this is the way I'll have to do it for future conversions, too. I do like the Bulgy set-up. Amazing how much better it looks than the factory FSB. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 You guys need to invest in a press. Best $100 you'll spend if you ever do more than one Saiga. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rsteciak 4 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Don't really know anything about the kind of press you're referencing. I'm building my workshop out more all the time so another tool that helps make like easier is a good idea to me. Would appreciate any info since I may do more Saigas down the road. Thx. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 shop press, usually at least a 6 ton is recommended. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Yeah, I have been promising myself I would get a press. Now would probably be as good a time as any. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Yep, just a shop press. I got the 20 ton one from harbor freight for a great deal. Useful for all sorts of things, but the BEST thing for AK's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rsteciak 4 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Funny, I was just at HF last night and walked right past these. I guess I'll put one on my shopping list for my next Saiga project. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Wait til you can find a coupon. I think they're like $120 for the 12 ton and $180 for the 20, but a coupon got me the 20 ton for something like $110. The 12 ton will be fine for AK work, but I figured for the price, might as well get the 20. Doesn't take up much space, minimal investment, and no precision needed, so no worries buying it from HF lol.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 yep, HF coupons are literally gold. I bougth a $420 gas wood chipper several months back from HF by combining coupons out of the HF flyer and Reader's Digest. It was already on sale, and they still applied the coupons for me. Walked out with it for $250. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rsteciak 4 Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 fully agree that you can't beat the deals at HF and the quality of most of their stuff is considerably better than what some "tool snobs" like to admit. I'll check out the presses next time I get a coupon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) the quality on SOME stuff is OK. that wood chipper I just mentioned? I didn't tell the other half of the story. the second time I used it, it sucked in a large branch. I reached down for the kill switch on the engine, but the engine started to bog and I figured it would just die. instead, it suddenly spun up to full RPM, and I couldn't hear the chipper wheel turning any more. it actually sheared off the tail end of the crankshaft, just past the engine oil seal. not a dinky piece of metal - the shaft is about 1-1/2" thick. Chinese metallurgy. to HF's credit, they took it back without any question and gave me a NIB replacement, which has worked fine so far. I really tried to find a used Crafstman chipper, but they just weren't showing up, and I have a lot of property to clear this summer. Edited March 21, 2014 by mancat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rsteciak 4 Posted March 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 that's the good part of my experience with HF stuff. most of it is cheap enough that once it self destructs, I just throw it away. haven't bought anything there on the pricier side except for their wire flux welder that has worked pretty well for the small stuff I need it for. I agree that there's not much comparison to Craftsman. I have lots of that stuff and most of it has lasted for years. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 Yeah, I never buy HF stuff expecting it to last. Usually it is something I need once and really can't see ever needing it again. For stuff I know I will use over and over again, I buy the best quality I can afford. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Finally found the time to work on FSB. I cut two parallel lines length wise down the stock fsb and shroud. Beat it with a hammer and it slid off. I was very happy to see that I did not nick the barrel at all. Bulgy FSB went on pretty smooth and lined up perfect with old pin sites. Got the gas tube fitted and now I will move on to the bullet guide....my least favorite part of the conversion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 (edited) It's the easiest part, just use a lot of oil and back off every turn or so. Edited March 30, 2014 by Inebriated 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigChongus 765 Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Dinky, have you test fired it since the install? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 It's the easiest part, just use a lot of oil and back off every turn or so. I know I shouldn't worry about it, but I had a bad experience last time with a defective CSS tap. They even acknowledged that they had problems with that batch of taps about 3 years ago. Getting quality tap this time, so it should go pretty easy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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