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Saiga 20 stove pipe


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My saiga 20 gauge stove pipes every other shot. I am at the point where i think the gas holes need to be enlarged and i have no idea how to get the gas block off. it is mounted different than my Saiga 12 gauge. Is there anyone local in the Detroit, Michigan area that can do this work? 

 

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I have struggled more with the 20ga than any other to get it running. I'm on round 3 or 4. I have (4)-.093 holes in barrel, fully relieved gas block, completely profiled hammer and bolt, mirror polished all friction points, and Winchester super target is the cheapest ammo I can get it to run. 6.50$ or so a box. But on low power rounds it's very very picky. I have installed, but not tested, jt reduced power main spring, jt guide rod, jt light recoil spring, and md arms booster puck. All of these are minor tweaks, but I have done the standard hd fixes that are typically overkill. So if this round of testing fails to provide 100% reliability I will shorten the gas system on a full length gun. Also don't get me wrong it is much improved. But it's an ak not an airsoft, 99% reliability is unacceptable, and dishonoring to the memory of Mr Kalashnikov RIP. What I'm saying is don't be afraid to over-gass it, others can chime, in but on the 20ga it's not hard to do. If you have any doubts knock that sucker off. If you happen to get too much(doubtfully) install a tac47 plug to dampen the heavy stuff

Edit. Over gassing is *hard to do(not likely)

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  • 10 months later...

Are you shooting wal mart value pack ammo?  The main problem that I and others have observed is that the magnet on the extractor needs to have something to grab a hold of when extracting.  The extractor doesn't grab the alloy primer casings and you need to shoot brass.  My S20 works fine with Brass and buckshot and slugs.  I get bad reliability when I try to use the alloy primer casings.

 

Which magazines are you using?

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Magnets don't work on brass either. Only on ferrous metals(thoses containing Fe aka iron) it's also the reason you blood is red. If it rusts(oxidizes) red then it has iron in it. Brass oxidizes green. Aluminum-white. I don't believe that ak variants utilize magnets. The extractor claw pinches the case agains the opposite side of the bolt head, and there for can/should hold it when empty.

Edit: "Magnetic Attraction Extraction"!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah, I had been under the impression that it was magnetic somehow. I swear I heard that somewhere. Sorry for my ignorance. I do believe that the extractor is made for the thick brass casings though. I've never had an issue shooting buck or slugs with the factory mags or the clear 13 round mags by Sanders.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My saiga 20 gauge stove pipes every other shot. I am at the point where i think the gas holes need to be enlarged and i have no idea how to get the gas block off. it is mounted different than my Saiga 12 gauge. Is there anyone local in the Detroit, Michigan area that can do this work? 

You can do it yourself.Pop the pins in your FSB and knock it off. If your gas holes are covered by FSB port, open it up so you can see the holes.I enlarged the 3 factory holes from 5/64 to 3/32, then drilled an extra hole at 5/64.I installed a modified Molot trigger group because it sits lower than a G2 and cuts down on drag of Bolt Carrier.Polish the rails a little.Buy the Suprema ammo at Wally World.5.88/box. It is cheaper than the Federal bulk and Winchester Universal and much higher quality. Have fun! The Csspecs mags are awesome and shoot 2 3/4.

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I just shot walmart value pack trap loads for an entire trap season. By the time it was over EVERY ONE ejected JUST FINE...  ZERO MODS to the shotty...

How many rounds you talking? How many ports in your gun? What lenght barrel? Tell us more

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