Hobowithashotgun 0 Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 (edited) Hey guys. First time owner here with a build thread. I have a plan so let me have some input from the vets about how it sounds: The biggest problem I have to overcome is light strikes. My gun fails 90% of the time, barely denting primers. So that's the biggest thing to overcome. Here's how I plan to do it: 1: polish the firing pin like so: 2: polish the bolt, inside and out and the firing pin channel: 3: polish the channels for the bolt carrier: 4: I also put the pin in a "lathe" (power drill) and ran a file down the inside of the firing pin stop to make the pin protrude a tad farther through the bolt when struck. I measured the pin from the bolt face at .8 pica. I filed it down to 1 pica. If I still get light strikes, I will go up by .1 pica until she goes bang. I also ordered a new firing pin and spring just incase I screw it up. heres a teaser of the bolt in the receiver. 5: I have a FCG coming from T&N, so that should do it for the internals. Hopefully she goes bang cosmetics: 1: forend will be the T&N shorty charging end. 2: shorty guide rod and new piston 3: I bought the pistol grip adapter to use my old AR grip....but I may not use it, I like the pistol grip that on it already. So I'll probably just run it for a while until the itch hits to hack it off. 4: I bought the f93 stock and I plan to use it on my real AR and use the buffer tube and collapseable stock from the AR on the MKA. So I got started on prepping the stock. i used a chop saw and a laser level. I used the laser to paint a level line on the stock and used a carpenters square to square it up to the top of the upper receiver. Worked out well. I cut it first at 1", wasn't happy with the cut, cut again at .8. Then when I chopped it, the receiver rocked down on the table and made the cut all caddy wompus. So my final cut I have to make sure the receiver is level and stays there. So I'm going to shim it level and clamp it down to the table, then cut it. Here's the cut at .80 heres a mock up teaser shot: I'm really considering polishing the entire barrel to match the bolt...but I dunno yet. Alright! Give me your opinions and input! Edited April 14, 2014 by Hobowithashotgun Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timmmyy 9 Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 great review keep them coming Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hobowithashotgun 0 Posted April 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 So I got the T&N FGG installed today and I'm almost positive the hammer spring was the issue with the light strikes. The hammer spring in my T&N group looks completely different than what's in it. The spring that came out of it had the legs bent perpendicular to the hammer..... So no wonder it was hitting light. But id really like to know if someone has a how to on installing the charging shorty forend. It came with a funky washer that looks like a ninjey star and two o-rings. I watched the video that is on you tube, but I can't tell what he's doing. Plus looking inside the forend, the other side of the charging handle has a peg that I'm assuming articulates the front of the bolt carrier....but it's plastic? What's the word on them breaking? I'm pretty hard on my firearms, so I'm assuming yanking the handle is not the best idea?... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toothandnail 275 Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 There's no plastic, except Delrin wear plates, on our forend. I assume the pin your talking about is the stainless steel one that engages the drive block. And as far as we know, no one has ever broken one. The ninja star is the centering washer that aligns the bottom of the forend, everything should be explained in the directions. If you need further assistance give me a call. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hobowithashotgun 0 Posted April 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Thanks bud, I figered it all out. Probably should have updated this thread. And it's NINJEY star! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hobowithashotgun 0 Posted May 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 (edited) I'm finished with her! i also got the saiga12 adapter so I could run a heat shield. the only thing that was strange about the whole thing was for some reason I couldn't use my stock cap nut on my shorty guide rod. The threading was different and I had to use the ring nut? It works, just looks strange, not to mention I chewed it up pretty good, since the only way I could tighten it was with a pair of vise grips. Anyways. Here's some finished pics for you. The shorty spring guide polished up real nice: Heres the threads I mentioned. Stock cap nut would not screw on to it, only the ring nut. Edited May 5, 2014 by Hobowithashotgun Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AR-12 Shotgun 16 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Doesn't T&N replace the stock nut with the obscure thread pattern for a standard 1/2"x13? I think I remember them supplying a replace nut with the kit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yamadog35 28 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Doesn't T&N replace the stock nut with the obscure thread pattern for a standard 1/2"x13? I think I remember them supplying a replace nut with the kit. They do it on the full length rod but not the shorty. Not sure why. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hobowithashotgun 0 Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 So is there one I can buy that will fit that threading? Oh and I ran 150 rounds through it of various types of ammo. No target loads though. But I did run some 2 3/4" full loads and cycles great! Chewed it up no problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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