Pre conversion question

[goldenpony 61]

I thought I was all ready to convert and understood everything. I am planning to use CSS conversion kit #1. I thought it was just install these parts and voila. Now I keep reading the hammer needs to be profiled or I might end up with cycling problems. I have no idea what this means. Can I send the hammer some place and have it done by somebody that knows what he's doing? I am planning, in addition to the #1 kit to order the access pin lock plate, re-worked BHO lever and possibly the JTE performance hammer spring. They refer to a "Modified trigger group and hammer", but it still needs to be profiled?  I'm confused.

Edited April 20, 2014 by goldenpony

[D.C.MORRISON 494]

You should spend some time in the tech section. I'm sure the info is there. I reprofiled mine with information there. Not difficult. Just need to be careful.

[Billybobf 50]

I used a belt sander to make my new hammer shaped closer to my old one. I also got it a little hot, doubt it did anything and I don't care, I would rather the cheap American tapco part be the one that wears out.

[lbsrdi 1,078]

My advice is that after the conversion you spend some free time taking the gun apart and studying it. Once you have a clear understanding of what is going on in there and how the parts interact with each other removing a little bit of material from the hammer will not be such a big deal.

[Matthew Hopkins 1,065]

you can either do 1 of 2 things, profile the US hammer using the original as a template to go on.    or do what I did, just reuse the original hammer. you will more then likely have  enough US parts in the thing after all is said and done,  that keeping the original hammer won't be a issue.

Edited April 22, 2014 by Matthew Hopkins

[goldenpony 61]

you can either do 1 of 2 things, profile the US hammer using the original as a template to go on.    or do what I did, just reuse the original hammer. you will more then likely have  enough US parts in the thing after all is said and done,  that keeping the original hammer won't be a issue.

 

Now that is an interesting idea!

[bobabuee 29]

i thought about putting original hammer back in....  i did it have not shot is yet. when i do it  i will post my results. then might take it back out and polish it a bit too?  i have left my tapco g2 single hook trigger in and changed just hammer it was cake took all of 5 min.

Edited April 23, 2014 by bobabuee

[Matthew Hopkins 1,065]

i thought about putting original hammer back in....  i did it have not shot is yet. when i do it  i will post my results. then might take it back out and polish it a bit too? 

 

 

I didn't do any polishing on the hammer, and mine works flawlessly.  truth is you don't need to do any polishing or other strange things to the S12 like some people say you should, then say they will do that kind of work for you for a price. 

 

do you go polishing the hammer on your other AKs, or  AR  or on other guns you have? answer is probably not, so why do It to a S12? because people say you should?

Edited April 23, 2014 by Matthew Hopkins

[hdskumm 39]

 

do you go polishing the hammer on your other AKs, or  AR  or on other guns you have? answer is probably not, so why do It to a S12? because people say you should?

 

Because it's a proven method to increase the reliability of running the lighter loads that these guns weren't designed to run effectively.

[Matthew Hopkins 1,065]

 

 

do you go polishing the hammer on your other AKs, or  AR  or on other guns you have? answer is probably not, so why do It to a S12? because people say you should?

 

Because it's a proven method to increase the reliability of running the lighter loads that these guns weren't designed to run effectively.

 

 

and you know this as a fact? because you've done that  already.  or is it more,  you're just repeating what you've read

Edited April 24, 2014 by Matthew Hopkins

[hdskumm 39]

Fact.  However I'm talking about aftermarket hammers, specifically the G2, which sits much higher than the factory hammer in the cocked position.  If you take the time to measure it, it only makes sense to profile it down, otherwise it will obviously produce more drag.  Most people don't run the factory hammer for cheap 922 parts.  Yes, by all means run a factory hammer if you don't need the parts.  I probably would not profile one unless experiencing issues. However, I rather enjoy putting my own work into something to get it to run perfectly.