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DavidQ

Welded through the barrel.

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Tell skippy to keep his tungsten needle sharp, hold The rig about 30° angle to the barrel so the tip is pointing into the back of the muzzle break, dwell about 75% of the time on the muzzle brake and intermittently/quickly wash down onto the thin material(barrel)and drop the amps down below 50 next time. But of course All of us keyboard jockeys already knew that!! Seen the video on YouTube

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The job ended up not costing me anything. I guess you get what you pay (or don't pay) for. Can Anybody point me in the right direction for a reamer that I may be able to get from a local shop or store? Or maybe wanna fix it for me?

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Were just messing with ya. Get a rat-tailed file or half-round( anything kinda round and small enough to loosly fit in barrel and not allow a square corner of the file to hit the bore) knock down as much as you can without gouging the piss out of it. Then go to parts store and ask for a automotive brake cylinder home. Put it on a drill w WD40 or similar and with medium/slow speed trying to float in and out while the hone it turning. That is the cheapest do-it-yourself option that "I" know of. Many,many other ways to do it professionally.

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Already used a half round file on it and had to modify it to fit in the barrel and knocked down most of it. I will see if using a brake hone works at removing more material.

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OK project for the weekend.

 

 

it's more then that, this experienced should be filed in your cerebral cortex under the heading LESSONS LEARNED. if you're going to have something done, get someone who knows what the fuck he is doing and has experience. a buddy with a welding set up, who never worked on firearms, should have sent a big red flag for you in the first place

 

I mean if you needed a appendix removed, would you go to your landscaper because he'll do it for free and he has some sharp objects?

Edited by Matthew Hopkins
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Well I guess I took his 30+ years in the military as an aircraft welder a little too seriously. Next time things will be different.

Edited by AZ-DAVE-IZ109

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A welder with that experience should be trustworthy. I don't fault you for that. Even "experts" have blunders. It's really a case by case deal. I am by no mean a gunsmith, and most gunsmiths can't weld. What these custom guns shops do really is specialty niche work. I do it, but I work on my own guns so there's no finger pointing, just a good challenge.

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So here is the result so far. Took some double sided tape and put it around an 11mm deep socket and put 400 or 600 grit sandpaper (not enough info on back to determine what grit) and it fit the barrel perfect. Worked it around a little and smoothed it out some. Looks 1000x better now. I appreciate all your help and knowledge in helping me cure this issue. Also just got done polishing the bolt carrier and trigger and gonna take it out tomorrow to see the results. Trigger feels clean and pulls nice.

 

2rm8gph.jpg

 

2w69ehj.jpg

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And for reference, here are the welds to the outside. What would anybody recommend to finish the outside if anything at all?

 

mtr1ih.jpg

 

And for the full gun in all its beauty.

 

dqhona.jpg

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Lol that weld will hold up the world! 70,000 psi tensile strength tad over kill. I think that was the only miscalculation. When they said perminate, he thought including a ground zero blast with an atomic bomb. Lol. If it was mine I would hone some more until there is just barely an outline of the weld on the inside. IMNSHO there is still enough material in there to disrupt the shot coloum or gouge a slug enough to harm accuracy or pattern. It's a narrow weld and should focus the pressure on the hone enough to knock it down without loosing too much metal elsewhere. Make sure you stroke the hone in and out of the bore or the stone will just get a groove cut right where the weld is and not do it's job.

P.S. I'm jealous of the side folder. Was that a factory model?

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So I should hone it a little more? It literally is barely protruding now. I not really concerned with the accuracy. I won't be doing 100 yd tests with it. Should I use the other style hone that's rounded?

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So I should hone it a little more? It literally is barely protruding now. I not really concerned with the accuracy. I won't be doing 100 yd tests with it. Should I use the other style hone that's rounded?

If if feels pretty flush, you are good.  Hard to tell from the picture of the inside the barrel, because the dark area can be misinterpreted as a shadow, making it look like a bump.

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This is a factory K model. Not a conversion.

Ouch....
Yeah I was a little bummed about it but it happens.

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It's protruding into the barrel at .030 still

You have all the tools already

But much better than you started with

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