Mullet Man 2,114 Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=549_1400290258 Check out #6 Lol 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 They are not all that sharp. Especially when you start looking over other parts of the firearm, I've seen someone take a HUGE chunk of their knuckle off between the dust cover and charging handle. The shape is very strong and accurate compared with doing an overlap. One day I'd like to eliminate the rib on the back, just need to design a way to do it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted May 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 I'm just busting balls man. You got a great product regardless. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
diesel_fireman2001 0 Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 (edited) I was looking at my saiga 12 mag last night thinking about that back rib. I understand it is there becasue of assembly and spot welding purposes. Not shure what kind of spot welder you guys have/use, but could you make some long arms that would go inside the mag and spot weld that area with metal overlaping and flat? Edited July 26, 2014 by diesel_fireman2001 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Make the back like the front. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 The rib is required to form the magazine body without wrinkles. Even the Chinese flat backs start with a rib, its trimmed with a pair of trim dies and then one side is offset using an additional forming die. You can't reduce the area of metal without making wrinkles, the front is stretched which is why it stays flat. How we would probably do it, is make a single trim die that would cut most of the rib off leaving a .01" tall cut off. Then place the halves on a water cool copper backer milled to the shape of the mag, and using a tig torch on a motorized pivot arm to make the weld. It would use the extra metal left behind as the filler for the weld. Speaking money and time. Your looking at $20k -$30K for the Chinese AK style, and about 9 months lead time. Or about $9k - $10k for the tig welding fixture and controller hardware, and about 7-9 months lead time, plus $2 - $4 extra per magazine for manual clean up that is likely needed. I may have another way to do it, but I have not experimented with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 I am glad that you have a plan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Yeah, we try to make what people ask for. However if I did everything that was asked for no one could afford them. I'm playing with a design that looks like an AR-15 mag on the back, its for the Fury shotguns since their LRBHO is so stupidly far back that even our Vepr mags catch on it while being inserted. Its an add on strip that gets welded to the back, and gives a place for the follower to slip into.. Not completely sure if it will be strong enough to sell. If I do end up making new 12 gauge tooling again, I'll look into making flat backs. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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