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tbryanh

RSA Trigger Install?

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I installed the RSA trigger in my Vepr .223.

The problem I am having is after a round is fired. the disconnector barely captures the hammer, so I am worried that there might multiple discharges with a single trigger pull. Also, I cannot get a two-stage trigger pull. Single-stage only.

 

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Edited by tbryanh

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The problem is happening because the front of the base of the trigger hits the receiver too soon. This reduces the distance the trigger travels during a trigger pull. If the trigger could travel further, the disconnector would capture more of the hammer. All of the adjustment screws, except the one that adjusts the spring tension for the disconnector, have been removed, so the problem cannot be fixed by adjusting one of the screws.

 

 

post-44407-0-75665300-1400984864_thumb.jpg

Edited by tbryanh

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By comparing the two triggers, it appears the problem can be solved by modifying the profile of the base of the RSA trigger so that it is similar to profile of the base of the Molot trigger. Any suggestions?
 

 

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Note: A slip of paper titled "New Redesigned Redstararms/Power Custom AK Trigger" was included with the trigger. Among other things, the slip of paper says "The trigger has been widen, and opened up in the rear to clear the trigger guard rivets. Some AK's may need the receiver window altered to allow the trigger to fit through the receiver hole so, it will move freely in the receiver...."

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Have you tried it with the factory disconnector?


Not that it will solve the issue, Im just curious like that. Looks like some dremel work may be in order.

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I haven't tried the factory disconnector. I think the keeper tbe gets damaged when taking the factory trigger apart, so I think I will not take the factory trigger apart.

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The tube that is flaired on each end that keeps the trigger assembled. The Molot trigger has it. The RSA trigger has a solid shaft that is pushed out when the trigger is installed.

Edited by tbryanh

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Gotcha. So the sleeve is keeping you from wanting to disassemble it. No biggie. Did you compare the hammers? Im curious to see the differences if any.

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Thanks for the pics. I was always curious about the differences in them vs. factory parts.

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Take a pic of just the disconnect.  I believe you can relieve some of the metal on the bottom front edge of the disconnect, which will allow it to rotate further and create a safer engagement of the hammer.

 

Jack

Edited by JTE

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Take a pic of just the disconnect.  I believe you can relieve some of the metal on the bottom front edge of the disconnect, which will allow it to rotate further and create a safer engagement of the hammer.

 

Jack

Thats a good idea. I might be able to mill the disconnector instead of the front of the base of the trigger.

 

post-44407-0-32486500-1401110664_thumb.jpg

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post-44407-0-90479600-1401167078_thumb.jpg


post-44407-0-95085300-1401167143_thumb.jpg

 

For the decription given in the picture of the empty reciever. A mistake wis made. When the word "hammer" was used, the word "trigger" should have been used instead. No modifications to the hammer were made.

 

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First I profiled both sides of the front of the base of the trigger. This allowed the trigger to travel further, but the disconnecter now hit the trigger window, so I opened up one side of the trigger window a tiny bit to allow the disconnecter to clear it.
 
The disconnecter captured the hammer better at this point but still not as well as the Molot trigger did.
 
Next I profiled the disconnecter. This allowed the disconnecter to capture the hammer as well as the Molot trigger did.
 
I now had a two-stage trigger, but the reset travel distance was too long, so I made an adjustment with the set screw on the disconnecter. Now I have a shorter reset for quick followup shots.
 
Profiling the disconnecter had the biggest effect. Looking back, I would have profiled the disconnecter first. That by itself may have turned out to be enough.
 
As JTE (Jack) says profiling the disconnecter is the "preferred method of increasing the engagement of the hammer." I tend to believe this.
 
One thing I am curious at this point is why Molot made their sear sit higher. They had to put a special lump on the hammer for this. I don't know what purpose it serves to have the sear sit higher.
 
 
 

Edited by tbryanh

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