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My 1st try,came out well, picked up the supplies from a buy of stuff I needed.

I used the dig thermometer to calibrate the one that came with the other stuff.

Used the shake and bake method to coat the boolits with powder.

No more sticky mess. Frog green color

 

PCsetup2_zpse922b7d5.jpg

 

170 gr 30 cal HP, 170 gr 30 cal solid and 160 gr 40 cal HP

PCsetup4_zps7fe877d6.jpg

Edited by RED333
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Lots of guys a using powder coating on lead bullets. The idea is that it acts like plating and reduces lead fouling in your barrel.

What does it do to the barrel?

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Yall are way behind, it has been done for a few years.

ZERO lead in the barrel, ZERO barrel wear, it is a plastic coating.

Now some powder coat is ceramic, very bad to use.

With cast boolits you have to lube with something, this stuff works!

I mess up a few I coated and tried to remelt the lead with the coat on

and the lead melted but the coat stayed intact. The stuff is amazing!

 

YES I DO SHOOT THEM.

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I have been shooting at a piece of AR 500 plate, so no boolits to show.

I will try the sand pit this weekend and see if I can get some out.

 

Damn Red, that's an awesome Redneck solution!

 

Do the hollow points still open?

Well not my trick, I learned it from the CastBoolits forum.

The "shake and bake" from a guy in Knoxville.

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Have you recovered any of the bullets that have been fired? I'd be really interested in the results. 

Well ya went and put a BUG IN MY EAR, SO HERE YA GO.

These are 160 GR HP, (EDITED OP) over 4 gr titegroup, after 155 gr.

Recovered from sand.

photo3_zps3e5128a3.jpg

photo5_zps4e35acf3.jpg

Edited by RED333
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I've been doing it for months. I have most of a video put together. It's a great advance.


Is there a noticeable smell when fired?

 

And what is the cost per round over gas checks or other alternatives?

 

Also what are you shooting the .30s out of?

 

No, and bore is shiney. Less deposits than copper. Less friction too. 

 

Advantages:

1) Low cost

2) Low labor

3) encapsulated (low lead exposure when shooting to you and the gun)

4) available 

5) easy to do to a high degree of quality

6) you can color code your ammo. i.e. Black for subsonics, camo green for alloy tuned to expand for deer, safety orange for shootin' at OSHA...

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I've used them for 9mm at an indoor range, 38s, 357, 30-06 and 308 in both "160" grain spitzer and 182 grain flat point. I've got the 308 180 grain load to a bit over 2 MOA with a bit more power than 7.62x 39. I think I can get it a little better with some more development. Both 30 cal bullets were sized after coating from 0.312" to 0.309" and would work for 303 brit and the russian 30 cal guns.

 

Which reminds me:

7) Easy to size due to the low friction. (if needed)

8) not messy after baking (but messy while powder is un cured)

9) coating thickness and weight is consistent per my samples.

10) no smoke or residue other than powder.


https://plus.google.com/u/0/b/106048627277407933424/photos/106048627277407933424/albums/5986742887790288785

Edited by GunFun
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Pound of powder is 10 to 20 dollars depending on what and where you buy. You will get 100s if not 1000s of boolits coated.

All if what gunfun posted, sizing is not a must, unless you need to, to get them loaded into you brass.

 

Is there a noticeable smell when fired?

 

And what is the cost per round over gas checks or other alternatives?

 

Also what are you shooting the .30s out of?

300 AAC, gona try them in our 7.62x51 rifles.

Have not tried 12 ga slug, but it is in the back of my mind.

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I just need a good source of lead. Tire stores disappointed me left and right. And not one roofer would even any like flashing is made of lead. I just called them out of the blue so I guess it was kind of strange. I did have a 2 gallon bucket full of lead film from dental xrays my dentist saves them for me. It's pure lead though.

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I've used them for 9mm at an indoor range, 38s, 357, 30-06 and 308 in both "160" grain spitzer and 182 grain flat point. I've got the 308 180 grain load to a bit over 2 MOA with a bit more power than 7.62x 39. I think I can get it a little better with some more development. Both 30 cal bullets were sized after coating from 0.312" to 0.309" and would work for 303 brit and the russian 30 cal guns.

 

Which reminds me:

7) Easy to size due to the low friction. (if needed)

8) not messy after baking (but messy while powder is un cured)

9) coating thickness and weight is consistent per my samples.

10) no smoke or residue other than powder.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/b/106048627277407933424/photos/106048627277407933424/albums/5986742887790288785

Thanks GF

That answers my question. I was wondering about sizing if you do it before or after the poly coat.

Interesting that the coating holds up to it. That must be some tuff shite.

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I size after  baking the coating on with a lee push through sizer. Sharp edges on dies can still scrape the coating off, or insufficiently flared case necks. However, the standard test for the various poly coating methods is to take a bullet and smash it flat with a hammer on an anvil. With most methods, the coating will be intact or will have minor spider-web cracks.

 

My process is to cast, use the toaster oven to normalize the bullets, then quench all at once for consistent hardness. Then dry them thoroughly and dry tumble until the powder is evenly coated, then sift them out with a salad spinner. Any seive would do. Then bake at 400 *f for 10 minutes. Dolomite Supafly got me on to this and it really does seem to be the best method. He had me using a modified piglet method before that. (swirling the bullets and powder in a solvent such as acetone or lacquer thinner.)


Red mentioned 300 AAC- That's my end goal. Dolomite pointed out the dangers of bare lead with gas checks going through a DI gun like an AR: It poops lead shavings, powder and vapor right by your nose. Sealing that all in plastic prevents that and elimintates the need for gas checks.

 

Although, they used to use paper patches for gas checks and acheived very good results. This makes me think that not much is required for an effective thermal or friction barrier. Perhaps the main thing gas checks or metal jackets do is give a very uniform base to interact with the muzzle on exit. If so, they may still have some use, simply for that reason. But very thin aluminum checks could be plenty.

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Only downside I have found to the dry tumble method is small cavites such as HP can fill with a drip.

Yep, had a few of those, but Bullets are sold with a piece of plastic in the HP to

get threw jackets and shirts, so I aint gona worry.

Red mentioned 300 AAC- That's my end goal. Dolomite pointed out the dangers of bare lead with gas checks going through a DI gun like an AR: It poops lead shavings, powder and vapor right by your nose. Sealing that all in plastic prevents that and elimintates the need for gas checks.

 

 

He is my Knoxville guy.

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Yeah, but the important thing is consistency. Hornady's plastic is elastic per their patent. My thinking for quality HPs is to find a high temp wax or something to pre-fil the cavities with which will compress properly, and survive the baking process.

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Yeah, but the important thing is consistency. Hornady's plastic is elastic per their patent. My thinking for quality HPs is to find a high temp wax or something to pre-fil the cavities with which will compress properly, and survive the baking process.

 

High-temp silicone?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I finally put together the footage for the long version detailed how to video.

 

I plan to make a 4 minute TL/DR version later, which will link to this one for people who have questions about specific steps.

 

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