RED333 1,025 Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 (edited) My 1st try,came out well, picked up the supplies from a buy of stuff I needed. I used the dig thermometer to calibrate the one that came with the other stuff. Used the shake and bake method to coat the boolits with powder. No more sticky mess. Frog green color 170 gr 30 cal HP, 170 gr 30 cal solid and 160 gr 40 cal HP Edited May 29, 2014 by RED333 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Why? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james lambert 3,059 Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 do you plan on shooting those? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ronin38 2,117 Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 I'm thinking this is NOT a good idea, if you plan on shooting them... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
liberty -r- death 1,445 Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Lots of guys a using powder coating on lead bullets. The idea is that it acts like plating and reduces lead fouling in your barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Lots of guys a using powder coating on lead bullets. The idea is that it acts like plating and reduces lead fouling in your barrel. What does it do to the barrel? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted May 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Yall are way behind, it has been done for a few years. ZERO lead in the barrel, ZERO barrel wear, it is a plastic coating. Now some powder coat is ceramic, very bad to use. With cast boolits you have to lube with something, this stuff works! I mess up a few I coated and tried to remelt the lead with the coat on and the lead melted but the coat stayed intact. The stuff is amazing! YES I DO SHOOT THEM. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 What is the name of that stuff? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 https://www.powderbuythepound.com/DARK_FROG_SKIN_GREEN/ SK2141 LOC PBTB 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Damn Red, that's an awesome Redneck solution! Do the hollow points still open? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Have you recovered any of the bullets that have been fired? I'd be really interested in the results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted May 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 I have been shooting at a piece of AR 500 plate, so no boolits to show. I will try the sand pit this weekend and see if I can get some out. Damn Red, that's an awesome Redneck solution! Do the hollow points still open? Well not my trick, I learned it from the CastBoolits forum. The "shake and bake" from a guy in Knoxville. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Long Shot 1,287 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Very cool, Learned something new on saiga-12 today as usual. Do you cast them undersized or just let em run with build up? On the add page it Looks like the poly coat adds about ~.004" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted May 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 (edited) Have you recovered any of the bullets that have been fired? I'd be really interested in the results. Well ya went and put a BUG IN MY EAR, SO HERE YA GO. These are 160 GR HP, (EDITED OP) over 4 gr titegroup, after 155 gr. Recovered from sand. Edited May 29, 2014 by RED333 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Is there a noticeable smell when fired? And what is the cost per round over gas checks or other alternatives? Also what are you shooting the .30s out of? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 I've been doing it for months. I have most of a video put together. It's a great advance. Is there a noticeable smell when fired? And what is the cost per round over gas checks or other alternatives? Also what are you shooting the .30s out of? No, and bore is shiney. Less deposits than copper. Less friction too. Advantages: 1) Low cost 2) Low labor 3) encapsulated (low lead exposure when shooting to you and the gun) 4) available 5) easy to do to a high degree of quality 6) you can color code your ammo. i.e. Black for subsonics, camo green for alloy tuned to expand for deer, safety orange for shootin' at OSHA... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 (edited) I've used them for 9mm at an indoor range, 38s, 357, 30-06 and 308 in both "160" grain spitzer and 182 grain flat point. I've got the 308 180 grain load to a bit over 2 MOA with a bit more power than 7.62x 39. I think I can get it a little better with some more development. Both 30 cal bullets were sized after coating from 0.312" to 0.309" and would work for 303 brit and the russian 30 cal guns. Which reminds me: 7) Easy to size due to the low friction. (if needed) 8) not messy after baking (but messy while powder is un cured) 9) coating thickness and weight is consistent per my samples. 10) no smoke or residue other than powder. https://plus.google.com/u/0/b/106048627277407933424/photos/106048627277407933424/albums/5986742887790288785 Edited May 29, 2014 by GunFun 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted May 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Pound of powder is 10 to 20 dollars depending on what and where you buy. You will get 100s if not 1000s of boolits coated. All if what gunfun posted, sizing is not a must, unless you need to, to get them loaded into you brass. Is there a noticeable smell when fired? And what is the cost per round over gas checks or other alternatives? Also what are you shooting the .30s out of? 300 AAC, gona try them in our 7.62x51 rifles. Have not tried 12 ga slug, but it is in the back of my mind. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sdustin 578 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 I just need a good source of lead. Tire stores disappointed me left and right. And not one roofer would even any like flashing is made of lead. I just called them out of the blue so I guess it was kind of strange. I did have a 2 gallon bucket full of lead film from dental xrays my dentist saves them for me. It's pure lead though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted May 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Monty, do ya some reading, you can make the soft lead harder. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?57-Lead-and-lead-alloy-s Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 Only downside I have found to the dry tumble method is small cavites such as HP can fill with a drip. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Long Shot 1,287 Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 I've used them for 9mm at an indoor range, 38s, 357, 30-06 and 308 in both "160" grain spitzer and 182 grain flat point. I've got the 308 180 grain load to a bit over 2 MOA with a bit more power than 7.62x 39. I think I can get it a little better with some more development. Both 30 cal bullets were sized after coating from 0.312" to 0.309" and would work for 303 brit and the russian 30 cal guns. Which reminds me: 7) Easy to size due to the low friction. (if needed) 8) not messy after baking (but messy while powder is un cured) 9) coating thickness and weight is consistent per my samples. 10) no smoke or residue other than powder. https://plus.google.com/u/0/b/106048627277407933424/photos/106048627277407933424/albums/5986742887790288785 Thanks GF That answers my question. I was wondering about sizing if you do it before or after the poly coat. Interesting that the coating holds up to it. That must be some tuff shite. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 I size after baking the coating on with a lee push through sizer. Sharp edges on dies can still scrape the coating off, or insufficiently flared case necks. However, the standard test for the various poly coating methods is to take a bullet and smash it flat with a hammer on an anvil. With most methods, the coating will be intact or will have minor spider-web cracks. My process is to cast, use the toaster oven to normalize the bullets, then quench all at once for consistent hardness. Then dry them thoroughly and dry tumble until the powder is evenly coated, then sift them out with a salad spinner. Any seive would do. Then bake at 400 *f for 10 minutes. Dolomite Supafly got me on to this and it really does seem to be the best method. He had me using a modified piglet method before that. (swirling the bullets and powder in a solvent such as acetone or lacquer thinner.) Red mentioned 300 AAC- That's my end goal. Dolomite pointed out the dangers of bare lead with gas checks going through a DI gun like an AR: It poops lead shavings, powder and vapor right by your nose. Sealing that all in plastic prevents that and elimintates the need for gas checks. Although, they used to use paper patches for gas checks and acheived very good results. This makes me think that not much is required for an effective thermal or friction barrier. Perhaps the main thing gas checks or metal jackets do is give a very uniform base to interact with the muzzle on exit. If so, they may still have some use, simply for that reason. But very thin aluminum checks could be plenty. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 Only downside I have found to the dry tumble method is small cavites such as HP can fill with a drip. Yep, had a few of those, but Bullets are sold with a piece of plastic in the HP to get threw jackets and shirts, so I aint gona worry. Red mentioned 300 AAC- That's my end goal. Dolomite pointed out the dangers of bare lead with gas checks going through a DI gun like an AR: It poops lead shavings, powder and vapor right by your nose. Sealing that all in plastic prevents that and elimintates the need for gas checks. He is my Knoxville guy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 Yeah, but the important thing is consistency. Hornady's plastic is elastic per their patent. My thinking for quality HPs is to find a high temp wax or something to pre-fil the cavities with which will compress properly, and survive the baking process. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 Yeah, but the important thing is consistency. Hornady's plastic is elastic per their patent. My thinking for quality HPs is to find a high temp wax or something to pre-fil the cavities with which will compress properly, and survive the baking process. High-temp silicone? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 Could do. I had thought of urethane caulk, but that might do better. It would probably be infringing on the Hornady patents though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waltham_41 52 Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?204174-simple-Hi-Tek-coating Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 You can buy that from bayoubullets, but it is more complicated and way more expensive. I don't really see an advantage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 I finally put together the footage for the long version detailed how to video. I plan to make a 4 minute TL/DR version later, which will link to this one for people who have questions about specific steps. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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