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How hard was it to remove the guide rods from your 1919s?

 

I've tried putting it in a vise and twist on the receiver by hand with no luck, tried using a pipe wrench and hitting with a hammer, heating the rod up.. I've completely destroyed the factory guide rod so I'm kinda committed now..

 

i have a replacement rod/ firebird handguard so I know I'm which way is the correct way to turn for removal.

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How hard was it to remove the guide rods from your 1919s?

 

I've tried putting it in a vise and twist on the receiver by hand with no luck, tried using a pipe wrench and hitting with a hammer, heating the rod up.. I've completely destroyed the factory guide rod so I'm kinda committed now..

 

i have a replacement rod/ firebird handguard so I know I'm which way is the correct way to turn for removal.

Pre XN guide rods are standard right hand threads. I believe XN guide rods are left hand threads, but not sure if it is the receiver end or muzzle end.

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How hard was it to remove the guide rods from your 1919s?

 

I've tried putting it in a vise and twist on the receiver by hand with no luck, tried using a pipe wrench and hitting with a hammer, heating the rod up.. I've completely destroyed the factory guide rod so I'm kinda committed now..

 

i have a replacement rod/ firebird handguard so I know I'm which way is the correct way to turn for removal.

Pre XN guide rods are standard right hand threads. I believe XN guide rods are left hand threads, but not sure if it is the receiver end or muzzle end.

 

 both are right hand where the rod threads into the upper.

 

Put the rod in a vise.

heat the reciever where the threaded area is with a propane torch.

You can place  a tool through the ejection port, and turn the reciever.

 

Some have a ton of high end thread lock, so quite a bit of heat may be required to kill it.

jim

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  • 2 weeks later...

Heating is more likely to cause damage than a stud extractor in this instance.

absolutely NOT!!!

 

and the stud puller will damage the guide rod, no ifs ands or buts about it,   it DIGS in just like a pipe wrench!!

 

But then I have only been doing it for a few years, and then only five  or six hundred guns.

 

It pisses me off when morons give people bad advise, and claim they know what the are talking about.

 

And YOU always jump in when anything contradicts t@n.

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Say what you will, but I am a registered professional engineer with years of hands on experience. An extractor is designed for one thing and one thing only. It is nothing like a pipe wrench. Maybe you should try it for yourself. I only jump in when something contradicts what I know to be true.

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Really??

 

then you SHOULD know heating 6061t6 with hard anodize to a little over 200 degrees will not cause damage!

 

AND a stud puller cams a hardened serated excentric into the stud, thus gripping it.

iT does DAMAGE THE STUD!  Thats why they are forbidden in aircraft and other precision applications.

 

And you Should know how weak the shell of the upper is, and how much torque you have to apply to break the loctite, with brute force.

Much less how susceptible the upper is to crush in a vise.

 

When done the way I suggest, in most cases the receiver can be rotated off by hand .

 

If you are an engineer....much less a PE,  you are a poor one

 

By the way i have several stud pullers, I use them to remove main studs and head studs in blown racing engines.

Then the damaged studs are discarded!

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I'm not arguing that heat won't get the job done. But misapplication of heat will. I can give you dozens of examples of that where someone caused more damage than what could have been done with a purpose built tool. How is an inexperienced person to know "how hot is too hot." What is best for a pro is often not best for the everyman

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You are right!!

 

Brute force is the way to go.

screw the guide rod who needs it anyway.

And if the upper gets twisted or crunched in the vise, who cares,

 

People are just too stupid to use a propane torch to heat a little spot on the upper.

 

But I understand, you need to contradict what ever I say, for the sake of your precious T@N

A few idiots may listen to you, but the smarter ones will see right through you

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Because 200* is the release temp of NO thread locker that I know of. 

The WORKING temp range of EVERY thread locker I used in the last 25-30 years, goes to 300* and UP, so 200* or "a little over" will DO NOTHING.

 

I guess thats why you suggest a tool jammed in the " weak shell of the upper" (your words) to twist it off is such a GOOD idea.

Nothing like using the weakest portion of the receiver as a place to wedge a tool and apply a twisting force .

 

About the worst case of post-43678-0-84470000-1403467560.jpg   I've seen, just because someone has a different method, DOES NOT MEAN the way you do it is wrong, it's a DIFFERENT method, to acheive the end result.

 

4-500, REALLY your bragging about working on 4-500 guns ? ? ? ? ?

I've, typed and deleted,  numerous responses, even more,  just "WOW", and ignore it and move on, to the attacks on us and others in your responses in this forum many times,deadhorse.gif 

But this one is over the top 023.gif stupidity/arrogance ???? I don't know what to call it anymore.

I truly hope you find a solution to you anger someday.

 

I'm out of this.

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Jim you are such a hypocrite. Your own disassembly instructions say to use a brute force method.

 

http://www.centerfiresystems.com/pdfs/MKA_Handguard_Instructions.pdf

 

Disassembly:

Remove upper receiver from lower receiver and disassemble upper completely removing bolt carrier assembly. Remove spring guide rod by unscrewing it from the receiver... turning

counter-clockwise. This may be accomplished by using a vise to hold the rod then turning the receiver by hand. Some MKA 1919’s may have LoctiteTM in these threads and may require you to use a lever such as a large wrench passed through the ejection port to provide enough leverage. Care should be taken not to damage the receiver when using this method.

Edited by AR-12 Shotgun
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