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Conversion-Complete?


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I just hope its fixable. Well, with gunsmiths, you have well known places with FFL transfers where you have to ship your guns, or local places. I've used this one in the past, but I wasn't expecting this. A converted AK is not supposed to have that gap. I just pray to God it's fixable. 

Edited by IxLikexRussianxGuns
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He used the sporter trigger hole for the pistol grip nut, instead of cutting a pistol grip nut hole in the correct spot.

Nothing wrong, just ignorance on his part. Kind of funny actually. You have an AK Builder trigger guard which requires the use of a standard AK grip nut. You just have to cut the hole in the receiver for it. Theres templates on here on how to do it, with a drill and file.

Edited by Mullet Man
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He used the sporter trigger hole for the pistol grip nut, instead of cutting a pistol grip nut hole in the correct spot.

Nothing wrong, just ignorance on his part. Kind of funny actually. You have an AK Builder trigger guard which requires the use of a standard AK grip nut. You just have to cut the hole in the receiver for it. Theres templates on here on how to do it, with a drill and file.

 

Bingo!

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GUYS,

   THE GRIP SCREW HOLE IN THE  HOGUE GRIP IS ACTUALLY APPX. 1/4" TOO FAR TO THE REAR.

 

   I'VE PUT PROBABLY 10 OF THESE THINGS ON VARIOUS AK RIFLES, PISTOLS, AND SHOTGUNS.

 

   IT WAS THE SAME ON ALL OF THEM.

 

   SNUG THE HOGUE UNIT UP AGAINST THE TRIGGER GUARD WITHOUT  THE SCREW.

 

   FITS PERFECT, RIGHT?

 

   NOW, TAKE A LINE-OF-SIGHT UP INSIDE THE HOGUE UNIT (A FLASHLIGHT HELPS).

 

   YOU'LL OBSERVE THAT THE HOLE IN THE GRIP, AND THE HOLE IN THE GUN, DON'T LINE UP.

 

   YOU'LL FURTHER OBSERVE THAT THE HOLE IN THE GRIP IS APPX 1/4" TOO FAR TO THE REAR.

 

   THE HOLE IN THE GRIP WILL NEED TO BE ENLONGATED APPX. 1/4" FORWARD (TOWARDS THE MUZZLE).

 

   FIXIN' TO DO ANOTHER FOR MY BUDS MICRO C-39..........

 

   I POINTED THIS OUT TO MR. HOGUE HISSELF AT THE NRA SHOW IN HOUSTON, AND HE PROFESSED TO BE COMPLETELY UNAWARE OF THIS PROBLEM.

 

   A COARSE RATTAIL FILE, OR SOME TYPE OF GRINDING THINGY IN A DREMEL, WILL MAKE SHORT WORK OF THIS.

 

   BE ADVISED................IF YOU'RE DREMELING, IT WILL PUT PLASTIC DUST ON EVERYTHING IN SIGHT, INCLUDING UP YOUR NOSE.

 

   DO IT OUTSIDE, OR DOWN INSIDE A TALL GARBAGE CAN, OR MAMA WILL HAVE YOU ON THE COUCH THAT NIGHT......

 

   BE CAREFUL YOU DON'T WIDEN THE HOLE, AS YOU ARE ALSO LENGTHENING IT, OR THE HEAD OF THE SCREW WILL BE TRYING TO PULL THROUGH.

 

   THEN YOU'LL HAVE TO HUNT UP A WASHER TO GO UNDER THE SCREW HEAD.

 

   JUS SAYIN'...........

 

   WHEN YOU'VE REMOVED JUST ENOUGH FROM THE HOGUE GRIP, YOU'LL BE ABLE TO TAKE A LINE-OF-SIGHT OVER THE REAR EDGE OF THE GRIP, LOOKING DOWN INSIDE, AND YOU'LL NOW BE ABLE TO TAKE A SIGHT, AND LINE UP THE FORWARD EDGE OF THE ENLONGATED HOLE IN THE GRIP, WITH THE FORWARD EDGE OF THE HOLE IN THE GUN.

 

   STOP AT THAT POINT.

 

   JESS1344

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Looking back, that would have been a wise decision. However, to save face, I'll probably just let him finish the job. I'm really reluctant. I've used this guy in the past for other things, and it's been fine every time, no complaints. He was upfront that he's never done a saiga conversion, but I thought better him with his experience than me with none. I took it to the range anyway. Still cycles birdshot like a champ. But still, that's a pretty big thing to miss...probably shouldn't have just dropped it off stripped down to nothing. I have really bad luck with guns.


Oh, the Cadiz guy? Yeah! I've heard alot about him. Yeah, that would have been a better option. But this ruise cruise has set sail, and I'm the captain.

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15 minute job to do it yourself. Scribe the lines. punch a dimple in the middle and drill up in three stages. Finish out with a triangle file. 

 

I think these were the right templates, but it would probably be good for someone else to verify that.

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=22396

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=22397

Edited by GunFun
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You could do the conversion. It's not that hard. And almost anything is fixable. Hell I had to drill out three bullets from the bore of my 308.

I agree with Monty. It took me a long time to get up the courage to do my conversion. I watched videos of the process over and over until one day I said to myself, hell, I can do this.

I used a kit from CSS. The trigger guard I used had the threaded hole built in for the pistol grip. It used all existing holes.

Even if yours is already converted, you might be able to switch out the trigger guard to the one I used and problem solved. As Monty said, it isn't that hard.

I also used the Hogue pistol grip and it works just fine.

Here's my converted S-12post-38743-0-21301800-1404061762_thumb.jpg

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goldenpony, on 29 Jun 2014 - 1:10 PM, said:

 

Ak Monty, on 29 Jun 2014 - 06:26 AM, said:

You could do the conversion. It's not that hard. And almost anything is fixable. Hell I had to drill out three bullets from the bore of my 308.

I agree with Monty. It took me a long time to get up the courage to do my conversion. I watched videos of the process over and over until one day I said to myself, hell, I can do this.

I used a kit from CSS. The trigger guard I used had the threaded hole built in for the pistol grip. It used all existing holes.

Even if yours is already converted, you might be able to switch out the trigger guard to the one I used and problem solved. As Monty said, it isn't that hard.

I also used the Hogue pistol grip and it works just fine.

Here's my converted S-12attachicon.gifDSCF0012.JPG

 

 

The trigger guard I used is available from Carolina Shooters Supply as Carolina Saiga bolt on for $45.

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Is yours riveted on or bolted, I can't tell from your pic?

Bolted on (your particular TG), will leave two holes open if you swapped to a different style.

Riveted on, you will have to drill thru or grind off the rivets, leaving two open holes.

The bolt on style guards like goldenpony showed, use existing holes in the receiver.

 

A riveted on guard is superior to bolt on, IMO, for looks, authenticity, and strength(permanent)/reliability(can't work loose).

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Installing that guard required drilling two holes in the receiver. Other TG's utilize the two existing holes left behind when the sporter trigger plate gets removed.

Drill and cut the square hole for the PG nut yourself and be done with it. Not that difficult.

You have one of the best looking trigger guards available. Swapping it would be going backwards, IMO.

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I reused my old triggerguard tig welded it on. It's something I don't ever plan to remove. I was so worried about doing it. Then i Said fuck it I'm going to do this. Had the trigger conversion done in les than an hour. Water than building an ar15 lower. I didn't have to cut a pistol grip hole but I'm sure it's not that hard. And the design of the grip would be forgiving on being exact on hole placement.

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When I converted the wife's S-.410, there was precious metal left to hold the pistol grip, so I made a reinforcing plat from a piece off of ginormous banding material. They sell PG reinforcing plates, and I recommend using one, they come with the hole for the PG nut and you only need to rivet it on and finish that hole thru the receiver. Makes for a much stronger PG attachment.

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