essohbe 47 Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 WTF? Tapco, Russian and Bulgarian parts. All interchanged around in different combinations too and they all have the same problem: Disconnector does not disengage the hammer. it's as if the spring is too long and won't let the disconnector release the hammer. The trigger hook also barely catches sometimes (hoping this is from the disconnector problem). They didn't drill the axis pin off did they? It's like every hammer I use isn't long enough to catch the trigger hooks and any disconnector I use, foreign or domestic, doesn't work at all. Is this malfunction specific to the .223 saiga? Seriously, wtf? I mite cut a disconnector spring shorter and see if that works. I know tapco eff'd up a bunch of older ones but the one I got has the same depth drilled for the spring as the others. ?!?!?!?!?! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tbryanh 11 Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 (edited) If there is too much pressure from the disconnector spring, the disconnector won't release the hammer. If this is the case, you might still be able to push backwards on the trigger to get the disconnector to release the hammer as a way of testing for too much spring pressure. If there was no issue with the stock sporter trigger before you attempted the ak conversion, this would probably indicate that the axis pins are probably not off. Edited June 29, 2014 by tbryanh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matthew Hopkins 1,065 Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 (edited) tbryanh is correct, if it worked before the conversion the trigger holes are not off. now here is I would do, I would put back the original disconnector and spring and hammer, then I would look very carefully to see if the top half of the US trigger is exactly the same as the original top half the trigger, if it isn't I would file the metal off the US trigger to match exactly the original.. if the trigger works, then something on the US trigger group is really out of wack. then you can decide what to do next Edited June 29, 2014 by Matthew Hopkins 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sdustin 578 Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 I had the same thing happen to my 308 after I had squib rounds drilled out. The trigger would have to be pushed forward to reset the disconnector off the hammer. I filed the hammer at the point where the disconnector hooked. I feel like I slightly changed the angle and it made the disconnector easier to "let go" also getting a new hammer spring wouldn't just to help push the trigger back forward. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sim_Player 1,939 Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Just don't remove too much material. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tbryanh 11 Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) Dinzag's Tapco trigger includes the disconnector spring and should be a drop in with no gun smithing required. The part number is FCGPGC1 and it works with the bolt hold open feature. If you don't want to use the bolt hold open feature choose the NONBHOFCG option while ordering the FCGPGC1 trigger. A better choice might be the RSA trigger. There is a little bit of a learning curve on this one and some gun smithing will probably be required too. Edited June 30, 2014 by tbryanh 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikebaker1129 19 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 If I recall, the stock Saiga disconnector spring is a bit long . Not sure if you are reusing it or not ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Before condemning any other parts, check that the trigger hook is not hanging up on the receiver. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 All of those named parts have a casting line on the disco and hammer that should be smoothed out. This can also cause the problem listed. I would almost always advise against shortening the disco or the hammer wing. I would also almost always advise against altering the disco angle. Keep the parts from each set with eachother. The angles of each surface are matched to eachother. Bulgarians are a little different geometry from Tapco. The video I just did, shows why shortening either hooks or discos are a very bad idea. Also, I need to say, the spring cannot cause the problem in the way the first two posts say. The disco should be limited in its forward movement by the trigger body. This is a solid mechanical stop. An over strength or over length spring will make a stiff second stage, but cannot cause a problem with disco release in a properly tuned trigger. The release point is not supposed to be controlled by something flexible like a spring. It is supposed to occur as you release the trigger, and the body of the trigger hits the front of the underside of the disco and knocks it off of the hammer wing. If you trim your spring you can cause a condition where the disco does not always catch the wing, which is dangerous. It sounds to me that if it sometimes releases, you need to clean up the surfaces from casting defects. If it never releases, the total movement of the trigger body needs to allow the trigger to go forward a little more. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DLT 1,646 Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 I know this might be taken as an insult, but it's not, just going to ask.....are you sure the hammer is not facing the wrong way? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tbryanh 11 Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 I think the OP might have got PO'd and decided to BO. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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