paprotective 362 Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 So #1 went to my business partner.. conversion pics and final pic in 762x39 VEPR section (by accident).. Heres #2 starting up.. CSS trigger conversion kit.. MagPul AK Grip, Gas Tube, CSS Lower Retainer and more goodies in route.. Stay tuned for basic play-play pics of the chopping of the 'plate' and such... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 First up this time.. the round trunnion bullet guide.. the only problem I had was the supplied CSS kit had a TAP that kept slipping inside my TAP handle.. luckily I had another 6-32 TAP from Lowes... (I broke the supplied tap due to slippage and twisting). I also noticed on the last 2 round trunnion kits I got from CSS the supplied button head allen screw kept hitting the bolt.. and had to be dremeled flat to clear and work properly.. Without dremel I would have to MORTAR the round OUT of the gun.. All fixed and locktighted in now though.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted August 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2014 This morning I did the mag catch with a small flat file.. Surplus clicks in and out and so does factory mag.. Tapco's are a little tight.. but I am not taking anymore off the catch.. I don't want a loosy goosy with surplus mags.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
imarangemaster 315 Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 I had the same issue with the Tapco 10 rounders. After I trimmed the mag catch, Saiga an surplus worked fine, but the Tapcos were too tight. I filed a little off the bottom of the Tapco locking lug. Works great now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted August 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) Heres the NOS wood handguards from Apex with 1 coat of Formby's 'Tung Oil'... Heres the 'Conversion' process.. 1st remove the stock with the 3 screws.. Then remove the hammer by tying back hammer springs around the neck.. and remove the retainer wire.. You should have the funky factory trigger and rocker still in it.. Next drill out the pins that hold that.. 3/16" drill bit and go slow.. your just taking off the flares.. Dremel or chisel off the 1st rivet (most rearward).. I managed to get the metal to pop off around rivet #2.. Try not to stab yourself with screwdriver or other sharp objects.. Heres a small piece of metal on rivet #3.. And off comes the little metal.. Side view showing rivet heads.. easy for dremel and cutoff wheel.. wear eye protection.. A little dremel-fu.. and small punch.. and rivets are out.. Taped off for paint.. your prep style may vary.. remove all factory oils.. Some quick flat black (all I got) CSS parts are at the post office.. stay tuned for the 're-build'/'conversion' portion. ETA ** Found Duplicolor DE 1634 at NAPA this AM.. Edited August 7, 2014 by YWHIC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted August 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 All parts came in.. only 2 small issues.. the CSS gas tube needed fitting.. The lower HG retainer from CSS doesn't like the lower HG spring clip (should I remove the clip off the HG??), as it puts ALOT of forward pressure on the retainer.. Overall looks awesome IMO.. Like I said tiny gap in the front of the lower HG because of the spring clip... should I cut it out or leave it?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
imarangemaster 315 Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 VERY SWEET!! I like it. I love those E. German/Romanian side folders. I'd take the spring off. It just tensions it, but if it is not loose, it is not needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 (edited) I got the Damage Ind Brake/Comp on today.. used a good pipe cutter and got on it.. Then with it off.. only got about 1/2" due to cutter width.. Then took my 14Lx1 DIE/TAT and got that done.. (was a PITA by myself holding between legs.. LoL) Got the comp/brake 'timed' by using 2 good flat blade screw drivers and a 14mm/9/16" crush washer I ordered from CSS with my part pkg last week.. Wasn't easy as I was just over 1/2 turn shy of index... but I got it.. ain't going no where.. And after hitting the area with the Engine Ceramic DE1634 (not the comp or the crush washer..just the area the wheels made a mark on and the FSB face abit).. I feel vindicated on this build... Edited August 12, 2014 by YWHIC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigChongus 765 Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 Looks great Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Few more muzzle end pics.. (had people asking).. With the 14mm crush washer (from CSS) this thing is UBER tight... Well worth the 1/2 hour total of cutting the 'sleeve' and threading with the 14Lx1 DIE/TAT set from CSS.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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