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SBS screw in chokes?


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Has anyone here cut down an S12 and then tapped the barrel for screw in chokes?  I was thinking maybe Winchoke since I already have them or Rem choke so the Remington breacher choke would work in addition to the wide range of screw in chokes available. Is there any reason this would not work?

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For reasons I don't recall now my Gunsmith told me it wasn't a good idea to do that on my S12.  Next time I talk to him I will try to remember to ask him details.  He was all for it on my Remington SBS though and is even modifying his to accept S12 drum mags and drums.  Someone else may know better... 

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Thanks evlblkwpnz, I thought it would work ok but wanted to know if anyone else has done it. I usually keep a modified choke in my shotguns for all around use and thought if the SBS would accept them it would make it more usefull. I use a Winchoke adaptor on the gun now at 19" and have all the chokes from I/C to x-full so I might see if my gunsmith will thread it internally after he cuts it down.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks evlblkwpnz, I thought it would work ok but wanted to know if anyone else has done it. I usually keep a modified choke in my shotguns for all around use and thought if the SBS would accept them it would make it more usefull. I use a Winchoke adaptor on the gun now at 19" and have all the chokes from I/C to x-full so I might see if my gunsmith will thread it internally after he cuts it down.

You might experiment with different loads to get the spread you want instead of buying various chokes and figuring out which choke/ammo combo does what. That process sounds expensive to me, lol. Any of the Federal loads with Flight Control wads are going to shoot tight. Remington Express 3" 15 pellet 00 Buck yields about a 24" or so spread at 7 yards in my 6.5" SBS while Federal LE Premium 2-3/4" 9 pellet 00 Buck yields a fist sized pattern, just an example of how wildly spread can vary with ammo selection in the same barrel at the same distance.

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Maybe I will cut it down and try it first before spending a lot on threading. I guess it could always be done later. Thanks evlblkwpnz.

Are you guys removing the barrel to cut it down? Probably not necessary to remove it unless chucking in a lathe to cut threads.

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Maybe I will cut it down and try it first before spending a lot on threading. I guess it could always be done later. Thanks evlblkwpnz.

Are you guys removing the barrel to cut it down? Probably not necessary to remove it unless chucking in a lathe to cut threads.

Pulling the barrel and doing it on a lathe at low RPM (40-80) with a floating reamer is the best way that I am aware of, but tooling for it is very expensive. If you can pull the barrel and send it out, you will still be in it for much less money than if you buy the reamer, tap, bushings, and floating reamer holder (about $400).

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