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What the Difference Between Mil-Spec and Civilian Ammo?


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Depends on the caliber, country, etc.

 

Typically, milspec has thicker brass and therefore less case capacity, so the same powder charge will make somewhat higher pressures. With moderate loads, it usually doesn't matter for safety, but might for shot to shot consistency. For max loads, you need to work up the load for each brass type & brand specifically and keep them sorted. I keep my .223 and 308 somewhere around 2/3- 3/4 the way from starting load to max load and don't worry too much about it from the safety standpoint. I do try to sort by brand in large batches. i.e. a couple hundred with one projectile will all be the same brand and headstamp. Then use another brand for another projectile. So I will load 150 grain rem fmj with rem UMC 308 Win brass. Once I run out of the rem brass, I switch and load 182 grain cast with Lake City or federal military 'x51 brass until I run out. If precision is your goal, sorting by stamp is a given.

 

Most military brass has crimps around the primers. You can get it out quickly by buying one of these http://www.midwayusa.com/product/135615/lyman-case-prep-multi-tool?cm_vc=sugv1135615. I deprime all the brass, then run the primer pocket reamer with a drill, then the mouth reamer to chamfer, and it's fairly efficient with a drill or two and large batches. The chamfer also makes it easy to see which brass has been reamed previously. This is probably the biggest issue for most reloaders.

 

556 is mildly hotter than .223 and has a longer dimension that can give higher pressures in a .223, but you can safely shoot 223 in a 556 or wylde chamber. However almost every gun is 556 if you look at it. A lot of "556" is actually loaded milder than .223, but technically it is supposed to be hotter. Wolf is one brand known for that.

 

7.62 x51 is actually a lot weaker than civilian 308 hunting loads. You can shoot all x51 in any 308 win, but not the other way around. 

 

You also have to watch out for berdan primed brass which is not practically reloadable. 

 

There are also over spec military surplus ammo, such as +p+ 9mm, or greek 30-06 which could be unsafe in some guns. If you had that stuff, you could pull it apart and reload it to safe levels with the same bullets.

Edited by GunFun
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What caliber you speaking of?

 

7.62x39. I saw some Brown Bear in the typical 500 and 1k rd. cases at SG Ammo. Then I saw some 700 rd. Brown Bear mil-spec spam cans. Just wondering what the difference is, if any.

Depends on the caliber, country, etc.

 

Typically, milspec has thicker brass and therefore less case capacity, so the same powder charge will make somewhat higher pressures. With moderate loads, it usually doesn't matter for safety, but might for shot to shot consistency. For max loads, you need to work up the load for each brass type & brand specifically and keep them sorted. I keep my .223 and 308 somewhere around 2/3- 3/4 the way from starting load to max load and don't worry too much about it from the safety standpoint. I do try to sort by brand in large batches. i.e. a couple hundred with one projectile will all be the same brand and headstamp. Then use another brand for another projectile. So I will load 150 grain rem fmj with rem UMC 308 Win brass. Once I run out of the rem brass, I switch and load 182 grain cast with Lake City or federal military 'x51 brass until I run out. If precision is your goal, sorting by stamp is a given.

 

Most military brass has crimps around the primers. You can get it out quickly by buying one of these http://www.midwayusa.com/product/135615/lyman-case-prep-multi-tool?cm_vc=sugv1135615. I deprime all the brass, then run the primer pocket reamer with a drill, then the mouth reamer to chamfer, and it's fairly efficient with a drill or two and large batches. The chamfer also makes it easy to see which brass has been reamed previously. This is probably the biggest issue for most reloaders.

 

556 is mildly hotter than .223 and has a longer dimension that can give higher pressures in a .223, but you can safely shoot 223 in a 556 or wylde chamber. However almost every gun is 556 if you look at it. A lot of "556" is actually loaded milder than .223, but technically it is supposed to be hotter. Wolf is one brand known for that.

 

7.62 x51 is actually a lot weaker than civilian 308 hunting loads. You can shoot all x51 in any 308 win, but not the other way around. 

 

You also have to watch out for berdan primed brass which is not practically reloadable. 

 

There are also over spec military surplus ammo, such as +p+ 9mm, or greek 30-06 which could be unsafe in some guns. If you had that stuff, you could pull it apart and reload it to safe levels with the same bullets.

 

Wow,great info! Thanks.  

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Military spec ammo is sealed to prevent water from entering the round, it is usually in a thicker case, and the primers and bullets are crimped tighter, the powder is also generally tighter in the case to prevent the individual grains from degrading when subjected to rough handling and severe shock and vibration. The variation of OAL and charge will held to a tolerance that will cycle whatever weapons that it is intended to be used in.

 

 True MILSPEC  is designed for combat use in combat weapons under combat conditions. Accuracy is secondary to reliability and durability.

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