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Muzzle Brake and (New?) Front sight Post


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I want to install a muzzle brake on my '08 Saiga and after seeing imarangemaster's recent post i have decided to do it. So I am thinking of going one of two ways. The first is replacing the FSB with a FSB that has a locking detent. My main concern here is making sure i dont cant the FSB. What all would I need to reinstall the FSB (I assume FSB and pins but anything else? Would this FSB work http://rifledynamics.com/collections/ak-gun-parts/products/front-sight-block, is there a better FSB to use, and where could i get some pins from? And Any advice, ideas, or threads on this?

The second would be to do it the same way imarangemaster did his.

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/95161-fsb-pins-on-saiga/

Also since i am going to do this once i also have 2 SKS's i have decided that i will add muzzle brakes on as well.

Has anyone here done this before?

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I have used the 24mm FSB that Blackthorne sells.  The problem replacing the FSB is getting it straight.  My FSB on my Saiga was so dead-nuts straight with the front site perfectly centered for dead on at 100 yards, I did not want to mess with it.

 

Another way to go is CNC warrior has a 14x1MM LH to 24x1.5 RH adapter special made for Saigas.  The 24mm is on a set back over the part of the shroud left by cutting the front half off with a pipe cutter or the way I did.  Then you can use an AK103 or Krink brake.  The only difference is with replacing the FSB you get a bayonet lug.  Personally, I don't ever want to be close enough to have to stick someone.  That's why you carry a sidearm to transition to.....

 

The nice thing about just doing your Saiga (or SKSs) 14x1MM LH is the wide variety of muzzle devices (including "cans" that you can use, either 14mm or 24mm with adapter.

 

If I still lived in free America, I would use Tapco's M16A1 birdcage flash hider threaded 14x1MM LH.  It works phenomenally well.  Check Youtube videos of it.

 

http://www.cncwarrior.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=24955

 

http://www.cncwarrior.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=2014

Edited by imarangemaster
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It's easy to get a straight FSB. Set the rifle on a level surface, and just use two carpenter's squares, blocks of wood, cereal boxes, whatever to see if it's straight. I've done it that way for a long time, and never came out with a canted front sight.

 

I have done some Bulgarian FSB's (I purchased from K-VAR, same thing RD sells I believe), and I like them. For true-to-spec conversions, they're the only way to go for a '74/100-series. For anything else, I'd highly recommend threading the barrel for 14x1 threads. You don't need a retaining pin, a crush washer works fine, CSS sells them for a couple bucks. 

 

I am partial to anything with a FSB/GB combo, but if I were to do a "regular" FSB again, it'd be a simple AKM FSB. The pins on those are usually on top of the barrel, rather than the bottom, so you'll have to drill for new pins. If you have a drill press, it's a breeze. If you don't, then try to borrow one, because it's going to be hard to keep a handheld drill straight.

 

As for pins, I just buy drill stocks in the correct diameter. 3mm or 1/8". Cut it to length, put it on a magnet, put a cup of water under it, and hold a blow torch to it until it falls off the magnet into the water. Boom, heat treated pins to exactly your specs.

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Nah, the one in the OP will work just fine, you just have to drill for the holes. Install, check alignment, and use a 3mm or 1/8" bit in a drill press. 

 

I would remove the old one, thread down a half-inch or so, install the FSB, and install the muzzle device. Make sure it indexes correctly, then you can either do another couple threads if it doesn't index the way you want, or you can go on to checking the alignment and drilling/pinning. 

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If your OE FSB is dimpled, you're gonna have to drill for new pins anyway. If it's pinned on, then if I were you, I'd be looking for a lower pin holed FSB to replace it. At which point I'd be looking for a 24mm threaded FSB. Good options for muzzle devices and saves the hassle of needing to thread the muzzle.

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Order 4 or 5. When you change brakes or take them off for whatever reason, you CAN reuse the crush washer, but I usually just replace it. So it's nice to have a spare or two laying around.

This!

 

If the crush washer lines up with a half turn or less, you cab usually use it again, going 1 1/2 turns.  If you plan on experimenting with different brakes, get half a dozen for 3 weapons.  My Tridelta brake only took 1/4 turn, so I should be good for at least one more install.

Edited by imarangemaster
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So I have bought a Spike's Tactical Dynacomp and an SLR SR47.

I am considering one of these three

 

http://damageindustriesllc.com/product/muzzle-brake-14-1-lh-ak-47

this one looks like it is the base model

 

http://damageindustriesllc.com/product/muzzle-brake-ak-47-rifle-14-1-lh-thread-ported

this looks like the one above just with ports on top

 

http://damageindustriesllc.com/product/tactical-crown-ak-muzzle-brake

this looks like the previous one (with ports) just with a tactical crown spike thing

 

anyone have any experience ot recommendations for a third muzzle brake

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So I have bought a Spike's Tactical Dynacomp and an SLR SR47.

I am considering one of these three

 

http://damageindustriesllc.com/product/muzzle-brake-14-1-lh-ak-47

this one looks like it is the base model

 

http://damageindustriesllc.com/product/muzzle-brake-ak-47-rifle-14-1-lh-thread-ported

this looks like the one above just with ports on top

 

http://damageindustriesllc.com/product/tactical-crown-ak-muzzle-brake

this looks like the previous one (with ports) just with a tactical crown spike thing

 

anyone have any experience ot recommendations for a third muzzle brake

 

The first one looks like a short AMD65 brake.  The second actually looks pretty good.  The top ports control rise better than one with just side ports.  The third one, well the spikey things are the answer to a question that was never asked, or if it had been asked, should not have bee,  tacticool non-sense.

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