kleypasp 1 Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 I finally started my 10" build. I thought I had it planned out well but now I am not sure what to do with the carrier. I moved the gas block back 4 inches with 4 standard size gas ports. Can anyone tell me how to modify the carrier for a gun with the block moved back 4 inches? I read some of the Tromix posts and maybe I should have only moved it back 3-3/4 inches. But at this point I have already machined the barrel, drilled the ports and pressed the barrel back in. Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted September 24, 2014 Report Share Posted September 24, 2014 Major thing to look at,is well the carrier travel all the way rearward without the op rod leaving the gas tube. If it does go back too far a buffer we be required. Not sure the tromix op rod will have enough material to re-thread. A custom op rod may be needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted September 25, 2014 Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 There isn't any op rod left when the gas system is moved back that far. Measure back 4" from the end of the op rod and you will see what I mean. Good luck with the project and post some video of it running. Kudos for having enough balls to take it on yourself. After all, it is only metal.... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kleypasp 1 Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 I am considering moving the gas block forward another 1/2" but that will be a last resort. I am really hoping someone will help me out here with some good advice. (Where are Tony or Bob Ash) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 There is no op rod on a gas system that has been relocated 3.75" to 4". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 There is no op rod on a gas system that has been relocated 3.75" to 4". Right, your welding the piston directly to the carrier. Like a mini draco. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 There is no op rod on a gas system that has been relocated 3.75" to 4". Right, your welding the piston directly to the carrier. Like a mini draco. No, there is no piston in the case of a Saiga 12 carrier that is used in a 3.75" to 4" relocated gas system, just a carrier. Measure back 3.75" to 4" on your Saiga 12 carrier and you will see what I am talking about. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 There is no op rod on a gas system that has been relocated 3.75" to 4". Right, your welding the piston directly to the carrier. Like a mini draco. No, there is no piston in the case of a Saiga 12 carrier that is used in a 3.75" to 4" relocated gas system, just a carrier. Measure back 3.75" to 4" on your Saiga 12 carrier and you will see what I am talking about. Your taking about the cut away for the.ejection port. It's a short stroke, so yea a "piston " isn't really required since the pressure is behind the puck. But will it retract,eject without coming free from the gas tube,and retun reliably? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 (edited) No. I am not talking about the relief in the carrier and it has nothing to do with the nature of the gas system. It has everything to do with the fact that if you move the gas system rearward 3.75"-4" then you have to chop the carrier 3.75"-4" because it will not fit in the weapon otherwise. Do the following if you want to understand. The carrier comes all of the way out of the gas tube on a build like this. It can be reliable, but there are a lot of factors that will dictate that. 1- pull out your carrier and mark it on the right side (so you can see the mark with the weapon assembled) at 3.75" back from the very end of the op rod 2- reassemble the weapon and pull the charging handle all of the way back 3- notice where the mark is on the carrier What needs to be done to the carrier and the result of that is obvious. Edited September 26, 2014 by evlblkwpnz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sevo 0 Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 Anyone happen to have a pic of carrier that works inside a 8" saiga? Maybe a pic of the inside of the top cover? Relicdad, You will have to open the gas block opening to allow the fat part of the carrier to enter. I think actual carrier becomes the piston. I am thinking you will need a shim welded to the inside of the top cover to keep the bolt carrier lined up. I too am working on a 8" version and in the same boat you are. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sevo 0 Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 I also found this http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/93111-sbs-details-where-to-cut-bolt-carrier-and-handguard-options-for-8/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sevo 0 Posted October 5, 2014 Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 (edited) Relic Ok I went ahead and did the bolt carrier and top cover mods to my saiga. She runs like a scaled dog on gas setting 4 with walmart federal bulk pack. I will snap some pics after I clean up the work. I just used the carrier as the piston. I also had to open the gas block so the carrier would pass through it I pretty much just ran an old piston into the threaded part of the carrier then faced it off in my mill and blind pinned it. I made a shim for the top cover from the left over barrel that I cut off. I just traced out the top cover outline and tiged it in after I cut it out. Becareful welding that top cover. She is thin and easy to burn through. Pics to follow Edited October 5, 2014 by Sevo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted October 5, 2014 Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 Relic Ok I went ahead and did the bolt carrier and top cover mods to my saiga. She runs like a scaled dog on gas setting 4 with walmart federal bulk pack. I will snap some pics after I clean up the work. I just used the carrier as the piston. I also had to open the gas block so the carrier would pass through it I pretty much just ran an old piston into the threaded part of the carrier then faced it off in my mill and blind pinned it. I made a shim for the top cover from the left over barrel that I cut off. I just traced out the top cover outline and tiged it in after I cut it out. Becareful welding that top cover. She is thin and easy to burn through. Pics to follow I found that using the same round copper backer that you use for welding gas ports. Fits really well under the dust cover, and offers some forgiveness when welding on the dust cover. If you burn through you can build it back up and sand it ban to shape. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 I am considering moving the gas block forward another 1/2" but that will be a last resort. I am really hoping someone will help me out here with some good advice. (Where are Tony or Bob Ash) I'm not sure how to help you here, having never built a 4" move. At this point I would probably go ahead and cut 4" off of the (total assembled) length of the op rod and see how it goes. Design-wise you want to shorten the minimum amount required to fully operate, but the shorter system will actually have a longer dwell time so...who knows. I can't speculate how your length will work. Worst-case scenario is that you have to move it but there's no point in starting that way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robe338 4 Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 I don't know if this helps any one but here's what I did on my 8". I don't remember how far I moved my gas block back 3.25 - 3.75. What ever was recomended else were of here for an 8" gun. I also modified the gas puck to match. Is it right? Who knows it seems to be working pretty well for me. I also couldn't find any good pics of the carrier when I did mine so I just winged it. Carriers cut down. Piston is turned down. Puck is turned down and bored out to fit the piston. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 If it runs, mission accomplished. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.