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Dang I love my Saiga!


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Went up into the National Forest and found a nice little clearing against a hill where I could set up a 25 yard range. I finally got a chance to dial in the sights at 25, so my other setting would be good.  With the rear on the 200 setting, I have it dialed in POA/POI at 25 yards.  Should be good to 250 yards now.  Also sighted in my Tasco red Dot, though the battery died before just as I was finishing.  The modified Tapco G2 really cleaned up and lightened  the trigger pull, even with the factory linkage intact.
 

 

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At 75 yards, shooting off hand, from a standing position, the red dot was dead nuts on, and I hit everything I aimed at.  At 50 yards without the sight, I did almost as well as the red dot at75 yards.

 

It functioned flawlessly from Saiga factory 10 rounders, and 30s - both  steel Com-Blocks and also with Tapco smooth sides.  The Tactical Tr-Delta comp worked great.  In fact, between it, the recoil buffer, and the vented Chinese Type 56 gas tube, the rapid shooting was more controllable than the un-comped barrel without a buffer, and with standard Saiga gas tube.  The combination really took the snap out of it.  More of a "push," than anything.

 

Also, the Tapco Saiga Intrafuse handguard with the aluminum heatshield I made inside of it worked great.  Several hundred rounds, and the handguard was only slightly warm.  Using the Chinese gas tube with the polymer upper handguard on it kept me from getting finger sizzle that you get with the Saiga Gas tube.

 

This is definitely my "go to" property defense weapon now.

Edited by imarangemaster
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How do you like that grip?

It is OK, but I actually switched back to the factory stock.  I have had three shoulder surgeries, and the angle of the K-Var grip is wrong.  It gave me cramps shooting it.  I'll hang on to the K-Var in case I ever move the trigger group forward.  I really like the handguard/gas tube set up better than a "standard" AK handguard.  Way less finger sizzle!

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STOP!  The tap is easy to get out.  Take a hardened punch slightly smaller than the hole, center on tap, and whack it with a hammer.  The tap will shatter.  Taps can be got at any hardware store.  When using a tap, just go 1/8 turn at a time and back off untill you hear a snick, then advance it again.. Use plenty of oil.

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There wouldn't be any disadvantage to welding it in place though would there? I do currently have another tap, Drilled the hole with a 7/64th like I was supposed to, used plenty of oil but the tap would not bite, once it did it snapped. Shouldn't be as much of a pain in the ass as it has been, I know it's an easy task. What really sucks is that one easy task is messing with the overall functionality of my weapon.

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I have had a tap break and it sucks. I did not use a quality tap, and later found out a whole batch of crappy taps were sold by a certain company. Once I broke the tap free, I bought a quality tap and have not had it break since (several conversions later). Also a tap wrench helps a lot, and they are pretty cheap.

 

Just saying that it may have not been your technique, but rather the quality of the tap that caused it to break. I learned my lesson the hard way about using quality taps.

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Fortunately, whacking them with a center punch shatters them.  Easy to remove a broken on (I know because I have broken two taps - cheap ones from kits). I bought one from the hardware store, and it worked great.  Remember to turn 1/8 to 1/4 turn, then back off until you feel the "snick" of the cut metal popping free.

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I bought my first Saiga after seeing one at a local dealer for $800.  Then found one online with a rear conversion and bought it for $600.. Took it apart right away and was amazed at the quality compared to the WASR's and or "parts" rifles. After shooting the 7.62 Saiga I started buying e'm one at a time. Even bought some in 5.45 and wanted more . Even had one on order when the ban hit and lost the buy.

 

So yes " I love my Saiga's ".

 

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Red ^ are cut off buy tube cutter, don't do this.

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