Corbinworks 1 Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 So I have the S12 broke down to do some cleaning and port work, I was looking at the trigger, Does any one trim down the underside of the hammer to shorten the pull? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsner86 18 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Do a search Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shandlanos 1,470 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Less surface on the hammer for the trigger sear to grab onto = more chance of the hammer dropping while the carrier is out of battery. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsner86 18 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Just do pre travel and over travel mods and a good polish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Corbinworks 1 Posted October 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) Just do pre travel and over travel mods and a good polish I will have to look in to this. Edited October 25, 2014 by Corbinworks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Words of Wisdom If you don't know exactly what you're doing when it comes to modifying anything in a trigger group. Don't fuck with it. And if you're going to do it yourself. Make sure the source of the instructions is impeccable. Don't Bubba this. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsner86 18 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/76775-sweetest-trigger-for-saiga-conversions/ I used a single hook and welded a piece to stop over travel and welded a nib rather than a washer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Words of Wisdom If you don't know exactly what you're doing when it comes to modifying anything in a trigger group. Don't fuck with it. And if you're going to do it yourself. Make sure the source of the instructions is impeccable. Don't Bubba this. and in case you don't take Chili's advise, allow me to elaborate on how to at least check your work. (these instructions are written with the assumption your not stupid enough to use a loaded weapon for this) Set your hammer in the fire position with the safety in the OFF/FIRE position. Wrap the butstock of your weapon with a soft cloth to protect the finish and smack the shit out it with a rubber mallet. If the hammer drops, THROW AWAY THE FCG, AND START WITH A NEW ONE. Repeat this test from the muzzle end, again from top or the sight block, then from below the sight block, left and right of the sight block. If hammer falls THROW AWAY THE FCG, AND START WITH A NEW ONE Now that you passed that test, trigger reset test. With the hammer in the fallen position squeeze the trigger slowly, till hammer falls. Continue to keep the trigger depressed, and violently rack the bolt carrier back and let is slam forward. If hammer falls THROW AWAY THE FCG, AND START WITH A NEW ONE. Now that you passed that, repeat the previous test, and now SLOWLY reset the trigger. If hammer falls THROW AWAY THE FCG, AND START WITH A NEW ONE. Now that you have your trigger set up the way you want and know exactly what point it's supposed to release the trick is the ensure you don't have a "sweet spot"( a point in which the hammer will release) in the disconnector to sear hand off . Increase tie wrap tension till the hammer falls. Once it does rack the bolt, this should engage the disconector, and allow you to see the exact point in which the hand off takes place. Now rack the bolt again violently allowing it to slam forward.If hammer falls THROW AWAY THE FCG, AND START WITH A NEW ONE. Good luck. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Words of Wisdom If you don't know exactly what you're doing when it comes to modifying anything in a trigger group. Don't fuck with it. And if you're going to do it yourself. Make sure the source of the instructions is impeccable. Don't Bubba this. and in case you don't take Chili's advise, allow me to elaborate on how to at least check your work. (these instructions are written with the assumption your not stupid enough to use a loaded weapon for this) Set your hammer in the fire position with the safety in the OFF/FIRE position. Wrap the butstock of your weapon with a soft cloth to protect the finish and smack the shit out it with a rubber mallet. If the hammer drops, THROW AWAY THE FCG, AND START WITH A NEW ONE. Repeat this test from the muzzle end, again from top or the sight block, then from below the sight block, left and right of the sight block. If hammer falls THROW AWAY THE FCG, AND START WITH A NEW ONE Now that you passed that test, trigger reset test. With the hammer in the fallen position squeeze the trigger slowly, till hammer falls. Continue to keep the trigger depressed, and violently rack the bolt carrier back and let is slam forward. If hammer falls THROW AWAY THE FCG, AND START WITH A NEW ONE. Now that you passed that, repeat the previous test, and now SLOWLY reset the trigger. If hammer falls THROW AWAY THE FCG, AND START WITH A NEW ONE. Now that you have your trigger set up the way you want and know exactly what point it's supposed to release the trick is the ensure you don't have a "sweet spot"( a point in which the hammer will release) in the disconnector to sear hand off . Increase tie wrap tension till the hammer falls. Once it does rack the bolt, this should engage the disconector, and allow you to see the exact point in which the hand off takes place. Now rack the bolt again violently allowing it to slam forward.If hammer falls THROW AWAY THE FCG, AND START WITH A NEW ONE. Good luck. If that sounds like too much work & expense just send your trigger group to someone who has been doing these mods for years and has worked out a perfect system that is guaranteed to work and be safe. I am one of those vendors who offer this as a service. Not sure if anyone else does but you're welcome to look around. BTW that goes for anyone with a normal (non neutered) FCG made by anyone, or your factory Saiga FCG. I have a perfectly tuned trigger in my unconverted Saiga 7.62x39 for instance. I developed a fully adjustable system similar to the Red Star Arms trigger that I have set now to around 1/4" of overall travel, with a slick, smooth 2.5 lb pull, and a crisp clean single stage release. It passes all the safety tests and is just as sweet as any G-2 trigger anywhere. I just did this mod two days ago so I won't be offering them for sale until I am satisfied it has been through enough live fire testing with excellent results. Heading to the range today for some of that in fact so stay tuned if interested. There is not really a lot to these simple FCGs. Just about anything you do can be counter adjusted somewhere else. That said, I do not recommend anyone trying experimental mods to their own only trigger in their weapon. I've been tuning them myself for many years and have dozens of extra components on hand to try new mods on. If I screw one up doing one off adjustments for a particular weapon or purpose, it's no big deal I can toss it. Never try any experimental FCG mods though and head to the range without extensive bench testing for safety and reliability. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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