Donovan755 3 Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 (edited) So, too weeks ago I repainted my Saiga .223 with Alumahyde 2. I don't know what I did wrong, or if maybe it just needs to cure longer. But for some reason the paint is still SUPER shiny like its still wet, and it has a really textured look to it. I made sure not to hold the can too far away from the receiver as I painted as well, because I had heard that doing that can cause a textured look. So yea, I am wondering if there is any way to fix this without stripping it all and restarting OH And I did mess up in some spots, like on the right side of the right face of the receiver. But that honestly does not bother me much. I just really cannot stand the wet look and the texture. ALSO, this is my second attempt, the first attempt failed horribly when I tried to use Rustoleum and screwed it up by touching it. So I REALLY don't want to have to do it all over again, I was thinking maybe I could sand it down a bit with some very high grit sand paper. But I am not sure, this is really my first time painting anything I cared about. Edited November 13, 2014 by Donovan755 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 (edited) Looks like you sprayed too heavily or didn't wait long enough between coats. Best bet would be to slowly break up the surface texture with 0000 steel wool, clean up the wool dust, and spray an additional light finish coat. Also that looks like a medium gloss or gloss paint. You may need to switch to low gloss or satin for your finish coat. Edited November 13, 2014 by mancat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
canoecanoe 63 Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 (edited) You are going to need to strip it or at least sand it/ rough it up and refinish Wait unbtil it is cured before you do this. Try the matte black. That is always what I use on my Saigas. I always get some texture, which I like. Heat up your rifle ( hair dryer works for me) before spraying., I also heat up the can a litle with a room area heater. I then spray light coats until I get complete coverage. I use the hair dryer between coats to help it flash off between coats. Then one final coat a little heavier and again with the hairdryer. It takes Alumahyde a long time to cure. I let mine hang untouched for at least 3 weeks before handling or assembling. Edited November 15, 2014 by canoecanoe 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Donovan755 3 Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Thanks for the tips guys! I think I will do just that, I will rough it up a bit and re coat with the matte black, might take me a few weeks, but I will let you know how it goes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 In the future you can also lightly buff each coat after a short cure periodx then add your next coat. This will give you a smoother more uniform final result. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sim_Player 1,939 Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 (edited) Had to strip my x39 down to bare metal and repaint, after a botched paint job (it was too humid). The final result looked much better than factory. I used a chemical paint stripper because, I didn't want to lose any of the lettering. Don't feel bad. It happens to everyone. Edited November 14, 2014 by Sim_Player Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james lambert 3,059 Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 I would bead blast it, then repaint. Most engine shops have blasters if you dont. Or you can get a cheep blaster from Harbor Freight 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thebuns1 4,323 Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 You need to let it flash. That means you spray it on and you can see the wetness kinda rapidly dry. You get the same result with clear coats and if you dont let it flash off and dry, even a flat paint will come out with the same result as you got if you dont let it sit a bit before you keep going. You also have orange peel. I would test the water a bit on some cardboard or other items before you do it over. Some paints can take different distances to obtain the same results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 Tie it to the back of you car or truck, drag it down a dirt road, it will look better. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted November 15, 2014 Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 true 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pyzik 597 Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 true Looks like that stock adapter might need a little tightening. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 it got bent after they dragged the rifle over a mile through gravel road and dirt. they bent it back later in the review and kept going. the photo is from this video 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigChongus 765 Posted November 26, 2014 Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 it got bent after they dragged the rifle over a mile through gravel road and dirt. they bent it back later in the review and kept going. the photo is from this video Wonder how the PA's zero held up after all that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted November 26, 2014 Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 Watch the video? It held zero. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pyzik 597 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 (edited) While I haven't dragged my PA Micro for a mile, it's held zero just fine for me.Cool video.Off topic, is that guy actually Russian? Is that done here in the US? Edited December 1, 2014 by Pyzik Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 (edited) Rob Ski is a Polish immigrant who was born in Poland under the USSR and served in the Polish infantry. I believe he is now active US Army Airborne. For a guy who looks to be in his late 30s or early 40s he must have worked his ass off to get there. http://www.hawaiireporter.com/on-target-interview-rob-ski-founder-ak-operators-union-local-47-74-part-1/123 Edited December 1, 2014 by mancat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Donovan755 3 Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 So, I FINALLY got around to repainting it! It looks a million times better now, the paint is still not fully cured, but I could not resist putting the stock and the dust cover back on. I have one issue though, I noticed that two letters in the serial number have completely been filled in with paint. Any tips on how to make them visible again? Seems like I put it on a little too thick again, I just can't help it! Lol, it seems that is either too thick or too thin too where I can see the metal underneath! But it looks much better than last time, I just need to figure out how to get that serial number visible again, and maybe that Izhmash logo as well! OH and there were supposed to be images here as well. But it was not letting me post it with them for some odd reason. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
canoecanoe 63 Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 (edited) Glad it worked out better for you this time. I think you are just out of luck on the serial number, though. Here's mine in Alumahyde ll matte black Edited January 26, 2015 by canoecanoe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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