Jump to content

Painted my Saiga with Alumahyde 2 Semi Gloss Black, think I might have


Recommended Posts

So, too weeks ago I repainted my Saiga .223 with Alumahyde 2. I don't know what I did wrong, or if maybe it just needs to cure longer. But for some reason the paint is still SUPER shiny like its still wet, and it has a really textured look to it. I made sure not to hold the can too far away from the receiver as I painted as well, because I had heard that doing that can cause a textured look.

 

 

 

post-49747-0-34119500-1415857435_thumb.jpg

 

post-49747-0-06975800-1415857492_thumb.jpg

 

 

So yea, I am wondering if there is any way to fix this without stripping it all and restarting

 

OH And I did mess up in some spots, like on the right side of the right face of the receiver. But that honestly does not bother me much. I just really cannot stand the wet look and the texture.

 

ALSO, this is my second attempt, the first attempt failed horribly when I tried to use Rustoleum and screwed it up by touching it. So I REALLY don't want to have to do it all over again, I was thinking maybe I could sand it down a bit with some very high grit sand paper. But I am not sure, this is really my first time painting anything I cared about.

Edited by Donovan755
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like you sprayed too heavily or didn't wait long enough between coats.

 

Best bet would be to slowly break up the surface texture with 0000 steel wool, clean up the wool dust, and spray an additional light finish coat.

 

Also that looks like a medium gloss or gloss paint. You may need to switch to low gloss or satin for your finish coat.

Edited by mancat
Link to post
Share on other sites

You are going to need to strip it or at least sand it/ rough it up and refinish Wait unbtil it is cured before you do this.

 

Try the matte black. That is always what I use on my Saigas. I always get some texture, which I like. Heat up your rifle ( hair dryer works for me) before spraying., I also heat up the can a litle with a room area heater. I then spray light coats until I get complete coverage. I use the hair dryer between coats to help it flash off between coats. Then one final coat a little heavier and again with the hairdryer. It takes Alumahyde a long time to cure. I let mine hang untouched  for at least 3 weeks before handling or assembling.

Edited by canoecanoe
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Had to strip my x39 down to bare metal and repaint, after a botched paint job (it was too humid). The final result looked much better than factory.

 

I used a chemical paint stripper because, I didn't want to lose any of the lettering.

 

Don't feel bad. It happens to everyone.

Edited by Sim_Player
Link to post
Share on other sites

You need to let it flash. That means you spray it on and you can see the wetness kinda rapidly dry. You get the same result with clear coats and if you dont let it flash off and dry, even a flat paint will come out with the same result as you got if you dont let it sit a bit before you keep going.


You also have orange peel. I would test the water a bit on some cardboard or other items before you do it over. Some paints can take different distances to obtain the same results.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Rob Ski is a Polish immigrant who was born in Poland under the USSR and served in the Polish infantry. I believe he is now active US Army Airborne. For a guy who looks to be in his late 30s or early 40s he must have worked his ass off to get there.

 

http://www.hawaiireporter.com/on-target-interview-rob-ski-founder-ak-operators-union-local-47-74-part-1/123

Edited by mancat
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

So, I FINALLY got around to repainting it! It looks a million times better now, the paint is still not fully cured, but I could not resist putting the stock and the dust cover back on. I have one issue though, I noticed that two letters in the serial number have completely been filled in with paint. Any tips on how to make them visible again?

 

 

Seems like I put it on a little too thick again, I just can't help it! Lol, it seems that is either too thick or too thin too where I can see the metal underneath! But it looks much better than last time, I just need to figure out how to get that serial number visible again, and maybe that Izhmash logo as well!

 

 

OH and there were supposed to be images here as well. But it was not letting me post it with them for some odd reason.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...