txoutback 1 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 After my conversion, I've noticed that when I first pull my trigger (non cocked) it has a very light stick from its resting position before it lets go. Any subsequent pulls are prefectly smooth immedately after that first one. If I let it set for about 10 minutes, the first pull has that light stick again. I doubt it would ever effect my use of the rifle, as the stock saiga setup worked fine for me too, but I wonder if this will go away with break-in, or if its something I should try to fix. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SGL 530 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Are you saying that the grittiness you feel is happening when the trigger is not even holding the hammer?Is the trigger itself rubbing on the receiver? Is it sticking on the axis pin?From you description, it sounds very slight and would probably work itself out, but you should be able to narrow down the friction point by just fiddling with it and looking closely. When you do find where it's rubbing, get in there with some 600 grit sandpaper and slowly smooth it out. Don't change the shape of anything, just slowly take off material and check for function often until you resolve the issue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
txoutback 1 Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Are you saying that the grittiness you feel is happening when the trigger is not even holding the hammer? Is the trigger itself rubbing on the receiver? Is it sticking on the axis pin? When not holding the hammer, but it only repeats after being left a few minutes. "sticking on the axis pin" is a pretty close description to what I am feeling. Very very slight, I should note. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Use 800 grit sandpaper to smooth out the axis pin and the interior of the trigger sleeve. Goal is to reduce friction and polish up the contact surfaces. It makes a very noticeable difference in trigger smoothness. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
txoutback 1 Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Use 800 grit sandpaper to smooth out the axis pin and the interior of the trigger sleeve. Goal is to reduce friction and polish up the contact surfaces. It makes a very noticeable difference in trigger smoothness. OK, but that means I'm gonna have to re-do the damn BHO spring. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
imarangemaster 315 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Lube it up and dry fire it. Did you move trigger, or do the factory style FCG conversion? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Use 800 grit sandpaper to smooth out the axis pin and the interior of the trigger sleeve. Goal is to reduce friction and polish up the contact surfaces. It makes a very noticeable difference in trigger smoothness. OK, but that means I'm gonna have to re-do the damn BHO spring. The BHO spring is not that big of a deal once you have done it a few times. Some people use dental floss or fishing line to pull the spring up onto the BHO retaining notch after installing the axis pin through the Trigger group and BHO spring. Alternatively, you can use a longer punch close to the same diameter to push out the axis pin, retain the FCG/BHO in place while dressing the pin. It won't allow you to check the FCG sleeve for any burrs, but dressing the axis pin will slick things up a bit. Besides look on the bright side....practice makes perfect Good luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
txoutback 1 Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Yeah, after I figured it out finally, I felt like it would probably be a little easier to do again. imarangemaster, I moved it forward. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 I usually find it is easier to fully install the bho and pins then reach under with a pick and flip the BHO spring over. It is springy so it can flex enough. Way easier to me than all the other tricks I have been told. I also notch the BHO so the spring has a place to click into. You ought to also do the bend on the hammer spring so that it is pressing the BHO to the right while you are at it. It can save you a jammed up gun later from the spring slipping inside the hammer legs, or from a BHO with excess side play skipping out from underneath the rail. I did this video on trigger refinement which might be interesting to you. There is also a link to a trigger job thread in my signiture line that answers most of the questions you haven't asked in detail. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
imarangemaster 315 Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 Mine Tapco G2 double hook is slick at 2.5 pounds without a trigger job, and that's with the factory linkage. In my experience, Tapco G2s don't need trigger jobs.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
canoecanoe 63 Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 (edited) I have found that thr pg can interfere with the triger pull by extending just a little into the trigger area and catching on the trigger hook. You might check this out. Edited December 5, 2014 by canoecanoe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
txoutback 1 Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 I have found that thr pg can interfere with the triger pull by extending just a litted into the trigger area and catching on the trigger hook. You might check this out. Oh, man, didnt even think of that, I'll look! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Another 'sticky' place is where the new trigger goes thru the reciever. Especially the hook. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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