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Light primer strikes after 1000 flawless rounds


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I have recently encountered a problem and I am not sure what the issue is. Took the gun out about 2 months ago and had a weird thing happen. The bolt carrier became stuck at the rear and took a lot of force to budge it open. It appears that it got stuck on the bolt hold open. There are gouges where it was stuck. After this happened that day I fired probably 50 more rounds and starting having light primer strikes. I thought that maybe it was just the ammo (winchester AA 2 3/4"). Didn't think much of it. Took it out today and it is still happening with the same ammo so I decided to run a few slugs through it along with some buckshot. It still happens with other ammo, might shoot 3 then light primer strike, hand cycle it out and click no bang. I have tried with no mag and one round in, mag with 5 rounds in it, mag with 2 rounds in it. It is very inconsistent on when it happens. But it's consistent with it happening at least with every magazine. I have a video where I shot four 00 buckshot, then light strike on a slug, then fired one 00 buckshot again. Has anyone ever had this problem? I have shot at least 1000 rounds with no issue like this, maybe an occasional fte here and there. Gun is converted with tapco g2, factory springs all around, MD Arms vplug and running chaos titan full length rail.

 

bho with gouges

 

x4niad.jpg

 

Pic of current setup

 

2qxn80z.jpg

 

video of firing pin striking the bolt

 

Firing pin strike S12

Edited by AZ-DAVE-IZ109
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get some brake cleaner and power spray your bolt behind the firing pin to see if there is any debri inbetween the narrow cannal where the firing pin sits..that has happen to me before..also take a 223 bulllet and push the nose side up behind the spring loaded firing pin to see if it protrudes all the way up

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I will try and clean it today. I have verified that the firing pin protrudes all the way out of the bolt face. It would make sense if something was caught inside it would intermittently cause a light strike and then move out of the way and work fine.

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Yes it does. It would seem that there is enough force for the firing pin to strike the primer hard enough to make it fire. I completely disassembled the bolt and cleaned everything but have not tested it yet. Hopefully will be able to next weekend. I am really anxious to show how well 3 parts can make the saiga 12 controllable with heavy ammo.

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Here is a quick video from my last session while having the light primer strikes. I shoot four 9 pellet 00 buckshot 2 3/4" rounds, next was a slug light primer steike, last was buckshot again. The camera adjusts after 1st round buck you can see how well the stock contains the recoil. I will be doing a full review of the stock with shooting a full drum of buckshot or slugs through it to really show the true recoil reduction.

 

http://youtu.be/2AX1vfrSaGs

 

And a pic of shooting the slug that didn't fire later on.

 

jiiz5j.jpg

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Dave, look how much daylight there is below the firing pin in your firing pin strike video.

The meat of the hammer is really hitting the top edge of the bolt tail.

 

Looks to be a stock G2 hammer correct?

 

It needs to be profiled to hit the firing pin more square/directly (and to reduce drag).

 

Check with Cobra on this too.

 

And see if there is too much side to side play on the hammer if it's getting hung up on the BHO.

 

^^^ Didn't word that very well... I know it's the carrier getting jammed up on the BHO. But still check

for excess side to side play that may allow the BHO to get out of position and also allow too much

variance on the hammer.

Edited by Spartacus
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Yes stock G2 trigger group. I just don't get how I have fired over 1000 rounds without this problem, then all of the sudden it starts happening. I don't have a problem re-profiling the hammer and I can see how it isn't hitting the firing pin squarely I just know if that is the issue 100%. This gun has cycled perfectly with no mods to the gas ports and just an MD Arms regulator with everything I feed it.

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Guess I got 2 guns to work on during my day off LOL. New glock coming in later. I already cleaned out the bolt and switched out the retaining plate for the Shepards hook. I was surprised on how easy the bolt was to disassemble.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update:

 

I re-profiled the hammer and while I was at it I cleaned and polished the trigger and hammer. The trigger is so super smooth I'm very impressed with it. I have some pics and a video of it. I have not tested it in the field yet but it seems to contact the firing pin more directly now. I did notice some debris in the disconnector spring hole so I cleaned it out. Not sure if this caused a problem or not.

 

2r6jmad.jpg

 

2465jl1.jpg

 

Reprofiled hammer

Edited by AZ-DAVE-IZ109
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Just a thought here. With no other changes, change out the hammer spring. HB of CJ (old coot)

 

Always suspect springs. They are easy to test if you have a spare.. I messed with my S .308 for about two weeks before changing the hammer spring, once it was changed it was problem free.

 

The hammer spring would be on my short list of spare parts to have. The others would be an extractor and firing pin.

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The hammer spring would be on my short list of spare parts to have. The others would be an extractor and firing pin.

 

 

Both are available cheap at RTG right now.   I don't think there's enough emphasis put on stocking spare parts.

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Will be testing it out tomorrow. I only have a jte performance hammer spring so if I run into problems still I'll switch it out and see what happens. I'll get some spares ordered here soon. Could always use a tromix firing pin.

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So I went to test it out yesterday will dismal results. After reprofiling it cycled about 60 rounds flawlessly but started to have light primer strikes again. But I have come to the conclusion that the error was caused by...... wait for it....... the conversion. Well not the actual conversion just a necessary part of it. Apparently I removed too much material from the hammer to accommodate the bolt hold open and the hammer is shifting sideways toward the trigger and it's binding up there. I notice it after I broke it down at the range and saw how much side to side movement there was. I think it moves about 1/4" I'll post some pics when I get home but now I will just get another hammer and start over. This time it was human error on my part.

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You could also just make a spacer to take out most of the movement, it would be cheaper.

 

This is especially true for testing purposes before you go grinding on another hammer.

You can use an old plastic gift card and cut out a small square section.  A standard paper hole punch will put a perfect sized hole for the axis pin.

Just shim the hammer with as many of these as you need to square it up.   Then, if it solves the problem you can either put in a new hammer or find a more permanent shim method.

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