DavidQ 170 Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 (edited) I have recently encountered a problem and I am not sure what the issue is. Took the gun out about 2 months ago and had a weird thing happen. The bolt carrier became stuck at the rear and took a lot of force to budge it open. It appears that it got stuck on the bolt hold open. There are gouges where it was stuck. After this happened that day I fired probably 50 more rounds and starting having light primer strikes. I thought that maybe it was just the ammo (winchester AA 2 3/4"). Didn't think much of it. Took it out today and it is still happening with the same ammo so I decided to run a few slugs through it along with some buckshot. It still happens with other ammo, might shoot 3 then light primer strike, hand cycle it out and click no bang. I have tried with no mag and one round in, mag with 5 rounds in it, mag with 2 rounds in it. It is very inconsistent on when it happens. But it's consistent with it happening at least with every magazine. I have a video where I shot four 00 buckshot, then light strike on a slug, then fired one 00 buckshot again. Has anyone ever had this problem? I have shot at least 1000 rounds with no issue like this, maybe an occasional fte here and there. Gun is converted with tapco g2, factory springs all around, MD Arms vplug and running chaos titan full length rail. bho with gouges Pic of current setup video of firing pin striking the bolt Firing pin strike S12 Edited December 7, 2014 by AZ-DAVE-IZ109 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
voonman 133 Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 get some brake cleaner and power spray your bolt behind the firing pin to see if there is any debri inbetween the narrow cannal where the firing pin sits..that has happen to me before..also take a 223 bulllet and push the nose side up behind the spring loaded firing pin to see if it protrudes all the way up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 Pull the bolt assembly apart and clean/lube it. Check for any interference with the hammer during fire cycle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidQ 170 Posted December 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 I will try and clean it today. I have verified that the firing pin protrudes all the way out of the bolt face. It would make sense if something was caught inside it would intermittently cause a light strike and then move out of the way and work fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 I swear the bolt carrier moves back as the hammer strikes, look close at the video. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidQ 170 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Yes it does. It would seem that there is enough force for the firing pin to strike the primer hard enough to make it fire. I completely disassembled the bolt and cleaned everything but have not tested it yet. Hopefully will be able to next weekend. I am really anxious to show how well 3 parts can make the saiga 12 controllable with heavy ammo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HB of CJ 1,263 Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Just a thought here. With no other changes, change out the hammer spring. HB of CJ (old coot) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidQ 170 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Should I put a jte spring in or another factory wound spring? I have a jte one here but would have to order another factory one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 I had light primer strikes with my 308 once. The axis pins were working their way loose, with the retainer plate not all the way engaged. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidQ 170 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Come to think of it, I just replaced the Shepards crook with a retaining plate from css shortly before the first session of this happening. I'll certainly look into that as a possibility. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidQ 170 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Here is a quick video from my last session while having the light primer strikes. I shoot four 9 pellet 00 buckshot 2 3/4" rounds, next was a slug light primer steike, last was buckshot again. The camera adjusts after 1st round buck you can see how well the stock contains the recoil. I will be doing a full review of the stock with shooting a full drum of buckshot or slugs through it to really show the true recoil reduction. http://youtu.be/2AX1vfrSaGs And a pic of shooting the slug that didn't fire later on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spartacus 1,619 Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 (edited) Dave, look how much daylight there is below the firing pin in your firing pin strike video. The meat of the hammer is really hitting the top edge of the bolt tail. Looks to be a stock G2 hammer correct? It needs to be profiled to hit the firing pin more square/directly (and to reduce drag). Check with Cobra on this too. And see if there is too much side to side play on the hammer if it's getting hung up on the BHO. ^^^ Didn't word that very well... I know it's the carrier getting jammed up on the BHO. But still check for excess side to side play that may allow the BHO to get out of position and also allow too much variance on the hammer. Edited December 11, 2014 by Spartacus 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidQ 170 Posted December 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Yes stock G2 trigger group. I just don't get how I have fired over 1000 rounds without this problem, then all of the sudden it starts happening. I don't have a problem re-profiling the hammer and I can see how it isn't hitting the firing pin squarely I just know if that is the issue 100%. This gun has cycled perfectly with no mods to the gas ports and just an MD Arms regulator with everything I feed it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spartacus 1,619 Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 I think the hammer was only just barely hitting the pin hard enough. Now you have some wear on the gun and maybe some gunk inside the bolt, now it won't run right. The G2 hammer needs a similar profile to the stock hammer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidQ 170 Posted December 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Guess I got 2 guns to work on during my day off LOL. New glock coming in later. I already cleaned out the bolt and switched out the retaining plate for the Shepards hook. I was surprised on how easy the bolt was to disassemble. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidQ 170 Posted December 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 (edited) Update: I re-profiled the hammer and while I was at it I cleaned and polished the trigger and hammer. The trigger is so super smooth I'm very impressed with it. I have some pics and a video of it. I have not tested it in the field yet but it seems to contact the firing pin more directly now. I did notice some debris in the disconnector spring hole so I cleaned it out. Not sure if this caused a problem or not. Reprofiled hammer Edited December 20, 2014 by AZ-DAVE-IZ109 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spartacus 1,619 Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 (edited) The hammer looks better now, let us know how it goes. Edited December 21, 2014 by Spartacus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsner86 18 Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 Looks like it's still hitting high but don't know till u go shoot it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 Just a thought here. With no other changes, change out the hammer spring. HB of CJ (old coot) Always suspect springs. They are easy to test if you have a spare.. I messed with my S .308 for about two weeks before changing the hammer spring, once it was changed it was problem free. The hammer spring would be on my short list of spare parts to have. The others would be an extractor and firing pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SGL 530 Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 The hammer spring would be on my short list of spare parts to have. The others would be an extractor and firing pin. Both are available cheap at RTG right now. I don't think there's enough emphasis put on stocking spare parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidQ 170 Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Will be testing it out tomorrow. I only have a jte performance hammer spring so if I run into problems still I'll switch it out and see what happens. I'll get some spares ordered here soon. Could always use a tromix firing pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
djt1991 1 Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Don't know if it's your same problem but one time I was getting light primers too and it was because my firing pin was gunked up cleaned it real good and hit it with some compressed air and the problem when away Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidQ 170 Posted December 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 So I went to test it out yesterday will dismal results. After reprofiling it cycled about 60 rounds flawlessly but started to have light primer strikes again. But I have come to the conclusion that the error was caused by...... wait for it....... the conversion. Well not the actual conversion just a necessary part of it. Apparently I removed too much material from the hammer to accommodate the bolt hold open and the hammer is shifting sideways toward the trigger and it's binding up there. I notice it after I broke it down at the range and saw how much side to side movement there was. I think it moves about 1/4" I'll post some pics when I get home but now I will just get another hammer and start over. This time it was human error on my part. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JoeAK 337 Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 You could also just make a spacer to take out most of the movement, it would be cheaper. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SGL 530 Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 You could also just make a spacer to take out most of the movement, it would be cheaper. This is especially true for testing purposes before you go grinding on another hammer. You can use an old plastic gift card and cut out a small square section. A standard paper hole punch will put a perfect sized hole for the axis pin. Just shim the hammer with as many of these as you need to square it up. Then, if it solves the problem you can either put in a new hammer or find a more permanent shim method. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidQ 170 Posted December 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 I believe I still have the piece I cut off so I might use it temporarily for testing. These are all great ideas and I'm sure it will be fixed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spartacus 1,619 Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 (edited) You should be able to use washers on the axis pin between the hammer and the BHO to take up the space. Would be good to deburr the axis holes on the hammer too. Edited December 23, 2014 by Spartacus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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