Saiga 12 cosmetic fix

[Bauran 11]

Need help from the forum guys and gals on something.

 

I had a friend cut my square for my saiga rear grip nut hole. He did a fine job but in the process he slipped and put a knick about 1/16" of an inch deep and about 5 mm long (if even that) next to the grip once it was installed.

 

 

Meaning I have a small blemish now that the weapon is completely back together. Now to the question:

 

Short of getting someone to weld in the cut and grind down the excess what other options do I have?

 

Like is there a compound that I can use to fill it? I.e. an epoxy compound?

If it helps I'm looking to get the weapon coated (plasti, parkerized etc. Still deciding.

 

Again thanks in advance for any help you may be able to lend.

[SGL 530]

Add another scratch to the side for good measure, drop it in the dirt, and then shoot the shit out of it.  

...or maybe some bondo + sanding if you're worried about it? 

 

 

Edit: typo fix

Edited December 29, 2014 by SGL

[james lambert 3,059]

You lost me at millimeters 

[Bauran 11]

You lost me at millimeters

 

ok...it's roughly 1/8" Long if that helps.

 

In the end guys I'm looking to get the gun coated in either cerakote or something in the same line (suggestions are welcome).

 

I really like the look and feel of the coating that has a textured feel but I don't know the name of it.

 

Bondo I assume would not adhere to such a coating or mabye it will, I claim ignorance on the subject, I simply do not know.

 

But please take my qustion seriously, seems every time I come here for advice I'm met with discord or flat asshattery.

 

I respect that you all have miles and miles of experience that I can only hope to get to one day.

 

But it will never happen if all I get is negativety ever time I ask a question. It's easier to just stop asking.

[patriot 7,197]

Steel filled epoxy will do the job. Fill, sand flat, then do your Cerakote or whatever. It'll be invisible.

[Spacehog 2,218]

If you are going to paint, I.e ceracoat, duracoat, etc, you can use any of the usual fillers, bondo, epoxy, JB weld. All of those will cover with paint applications and you will never know they were there.

 

If you plan on just parkerizing and oil (I.e no paint over the parkerizing) then you will have to weld and grind flat, as parkerizing (either heavy zinc phosphate or manganese phosphate) are conversion coatings that will only react with ferrous substrates. Hope that helps.

[Bauran 11]

Thank you Spacehog for informative post, most appreciated.

Edited December 29, 2014 by Bauran

[Bauran 11]

Rather than start a new thread which coat would you suggest: cerakote, dura coat or parkerize?

 

I know all have their pluses and minuses but of the three if it was your saiga which would YOU choose?

 

LIke I said I value the opinion of this forum.

[patriot 7,197]

Parkerizing is out if you use any fillers.

[JohnnyE 81]

It's a Saiga. Shoot so many rounds through it that you can't tell the new wear and tear from the old!

[YOT 3,743]

Rather than start a new thread which coat would you suggest: cerakote, dura coat or parkerize?

 

I know all have their pluses and minuses but of the three if it was your saiga which would YOU choose?

 

LIke I said I value the opinion of this forum.

 

 

As was told to me by one of our gurus (from lonestar arms, IIRC) "Rattle can, that way scratches can be fixed easily." It IS an AK after all.

[james lambert 3,059]

I would just touch it up with a sharpie marker and call it good

[Carsner86 18]

I wanna do cerakote to mine... Just don't know what color

[Spacehog 2,218]

Bauran,

I agree with YOT's post above. You can get a very nice professional finish with proper prep and Duplicolor DE1634 ceramic engine paint. If it were my gun, I would fill the mark with epoxy, sand smooth, strip down to the barreled receiver, degrease, and paint it with DE1634. Touch up is very easy, and it holds up pretty well to abuse and solvents.

 

Lots of people use brake cleaner to degrease, I actually put the whole barreled receiver, dust cover, and safety lever in a tub of hot soapy water and let it soak. This helps pull out a lot of the oil trapped between the receiver and the trunnions. I then scrub it with a nylon brush and straight dish washing detergent. (dawn) Rinse thoroughly, and apply heat (hair dryer, etc) to drive off any moisture.

 

Use very light multiple coats of the DE1634, allowing the solvent in the paint to flash off between coats (5 minutes) you can get a very nice durable finish using this method. PM me if you have any questions.

Edited December 30, 2014 by Spacehog

[HB of CJ 1,263]

We used to do kitchens. New construction. Remodels. When very nice perfect high priced kitchen cabinets got nicked, we used a special wax pencil of the exact same color as the finish. We always told the home owner what we did. Most seemed to appreciate it. They never otherwise would have known ... or cared.

 

Get some instant cold blue. Midway, Gantz Supply, Wideners. I forgot right now the trade name of the product. Less than ten bucks for a small bottle. Swab the area with acetone with a Cue Tip. Then Cue Tip in a little instant cold blue. You will never see the Ouchie. HB of CJ (old coot)

 

Krylon Semi Gloss black spray paint also comes to mind for total refinishing. Or if you are serious about your Saiga, get some flat black high temp wood stove or automotive exhaust header paint. The wood stove paint is much much cheaper than the header paint. About the same product. Marketing.

 

You really need to consider coming to grips with your Saiga. Consider torture, hard handling, dropping, flinging, throwing, freezing, stomping, hitting, kicking, verbal abuse, other physical abuse, putting away very hot, wet and dirty and the usual treatment. Otherwise your Saiga will not understand.

[Bauran 11]

I'ive done just that to for blemishes on my ar and it work great.

 

In my case though the guy used a grinding wheel on a dremel and knocked it far enough down to creat a deep best as I can describe a cut. Happened so fast I can't blame him but that doesn't take away the fact it is there.

 

If you stick a toothpick in it to gauge how deep it is it goes down a 1/16 or 1/8 inch. Since I intend to coat it I can only imagine it will show more apparent more once done.

 

I'm looking in the metal impregnated epoxy because that seems the best route, thanks for the patience but of hasn't asked I would have never heard of or thought of it.

 

Thanks again all

 

To the poster below a ralize these guns are supposed to show wear and tear (see the circle made by the safety, which doesn't bother me.

 

I would just touch it up with a sharpie marker and call it good I've done just that to for blemishes on my ar and it work great.

 

In my case though the guy used a grinding wheel on a dremel and knocked it far enough down to creat a deep best as I can describe a cut. Happened so fast I can't blame him but that doesn't take away the fact it is there.

 

If you stick a toothpick in it to gauge how deep it is it goes down a 1/16 or 1/8 inch. Since I intend to coat it I can only imagine it will show more apparent more once done.

 

I'm looking in the metal impregnated epoxy because that seems the best route, thanks for the patience but of hasn't asked I would have never heard of or thought of it.

 

Thanks again all

 

To the poster below a ralize these guns are supposed to show wear and tear (see the circle made by the safety, which doesn't bother me.

Edited December 30, 2014 by Bauran

[Bauran 11]

Oh I forgot, I have access to solder and associated tool for these types of small divets...anyone have experience with type of filler question is, will the duracoat or cerakote adhere to such a compound?

[james lambert 3,059]

Oh I forgot, I have access to solder and associated tool for these types of small divets...anyone have experience with type of filler question is, will the duracoat or cerakote adhere to such a compound?

yes