forsaken352 235 Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 I've gotten the 2 cross pins out, no big deal. However, I've beat on it with a hammer and a piece of brass, I've beat on it with a hammer and a piece of wood, and I just picked up some 3/8" brass punches and tried pressing it out, and let me tell you, it has not budged not even a half a millimeter. It hasn't budged the thickness of a single atom, I swear! If I didn't know it wasn't threaded, I'd think it's threaded...Or welded... The one thing I've not tried is heat. What do you guys recommend? I don't want to destroy the block because I'm going to reuse it, but this son of a bitch is NOT moving. Also, what if I tried hitting it sideways with a hammer and wood/brass to cant the sight block back and forth? Sometimes that loosens things up. Ideas please! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
specialk_31 0 Posted January 1, 2015 Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 I had the same problem. Mine didn't seem to budge until I used a heat gun on it and tapped it side to side, canting it to loosen it up. A couple times back and forth made it easier to knock off with a hardened rubber mallet. Heating or twisting slightly should get it off. Good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
forsaken352 235 Posted January 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2015 Thank you! I'll give it a try. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Racer 0 Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 I got mine off after removing the pins by pressing it off in an arbor press. I made a collar to go behind the FSB and a brass piece to go on the end of the barrel. A little heat from the heat gun and it slid off. The collar was a shaft collar used on a go kart axle to keep the axle shaft from sliding in the bearings. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Don't need to heat it up much to get the expansion of the metal. If paint is dulling or smoking that's hotter than you need. Yes as said smacking it sideways helps a lot. It takes sharp fast blows not heavy slow ones. Just took mine off today and moved back. It was about as tight as an s12. The 7.62x39 saiga fsb has my hardest one so far. Just never know. Also along with the quick crack of the mallet. It's imperative to have the gun as rigidly supports as possible. Good luck. Trying to get this puppy ready for the hog hunt! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
forsaken352 235 Posted June 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 I never got around to removing the front sight, but have recently become interested in it again. I have a couple of more questions. 1. What kind of force would it take to bend a barrel like this? Obviously, I don't want to, so I need to know what kind of limitations I'm dealing with here. I plan on using a plastic mallet with the rifle laying on its side. Could I place the portion just before the front sight on say an anvil covered by a towel? Would that cause it to bend? 2. One suggestion by another member here was to freeze the barrel overnight, then use an oxy/acetylene torch and heat the FSB as independently from the barrel as I could, THEN try to remove it. Well, the oxy/acetylene is out, but I do have a MAPP torch somewhere around here. I think I've asked before, but would it be possible to use that instead if I just keep it far enough away? If not, I also have a rather strong heat gun, but I might not be able to direct the heat to the FSB alone as well as a torch of some sort. Also, would hitting the FSB with a mallet on a frozen barrel be cause for concern? I'm not too familiar with how metal interacts with temperature when introduced to stress. 3. When/If I ever manage to get this thing removed, I plan to use the threading tool from Dinzag. If I cut it, following all instructions, would the threads be straight enough for suppressor use? If baffle strikes are a possibility, then I may need to reconsider my options for threading it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HB of CJ 1,263 Posted June 15, 2015 Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 Also you can make up a small slide hammer that has the tongs tightly grip the front site base. Then snug the barrel into your expensive 5 inch smooth jaw bench vise padded with carpet hunks. Draw it up tight. Use the slide hammer to knock it off. We made our slide hammer by modding a small automotive pulley or gear puller. If that does not work, like already said, use the gear puller function and a big wrench. The heat is a last resort. Liquid wrench oil works also. Watch out for the crown. HB We might have to do this to Maxine Maxblast as she really needs a threaded muzzle for that Vortex flash hider. Max is her name. .308 Saiga. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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