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Very common actually. I had one that was weak do it. I re peened the rivet portion of the center pin and it was fine.

 

You need to control your temp and if you tap the mold, do it before opening, on the handle part, not the blocks. if you have them deburred and have it the right temp' they will fall out without beating on the mold or shaking. If you are tapping on it with the mold open, the weight of the slug and shock of the tap is transferred into the peened 'rivet' on the bottom of the center pin. I have got it to where I don't need to tap most of the time at all. But if I do, I close the mold before I do.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nF3RmAdaOe8


oops, wrong video link. He has one about this specific issue, but this one covers some related concerns too 

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They really should leave more meat on it in the first place. They will take care of you if you just want to send the thing back to them. That was what I did with another defective mold, and I asked about my core pin. The back log shouldn't be too bad right now, so I wouldn't expect much of a wait.

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I find that deburred and no smoke at the right temp works best.

 

Run fairly hot, and develop a rythm. Fill, cool until just 'frosted' on a wet rag, flip, tap, open,  dump, fill... They should come out fast with no fuss and no abuse to the mold. Preheating core pin with a torch before the first fill helps a lot too.

Edited by GunFun
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Drill and screw is the next option.

 

I found the main thing is to only tap the mold when it is closed. if it is open, the weight of the slug flopping on the core pin transfers a lot of shock. Keeping the temp good, and a tap on the side of the holder with the mold closed has 8/10 falling free as soon as I open the mold.

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