Mullet Man 2,114 Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 I drilled out my operating rod dimples to pin it in place, that's some hard steel. The op rod wasn't bottomed out in the carrier, I know its typical. It was threaded in at 3.367" and I can screw it in (bottomed out) to a shorter length of 3.316". What effect will this have on the gas system and functional operation if I pinned it at the shorter OAL? Should I try and use a filler of some sort to take up the extra space and keep it at 3.367"? Opinions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dochoc 4 Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 As the factory have set the OAL to a different length than would be achieved by simply screwing the rod all the way in, I would suggest that it would be important to keep this length. After all it would be easier and quicker to just screw it all the way in, so why haven't they? I am in the same boat, as my carrier has cracked ,and needs welding. It was always 'loose and wobbly' out of the box. I propose to have a longer op rod machined up, and then shave it down progressively until the original OAL is achieved with the rod screwed in tight, then pin the rod in place. You could use shim stock to take up the slack, but a longer rod seemed a more elegant solution. Might even try to get a Titanium version done if I can find someone to do it ! I do have slight concerns that if the factory left the rod 'loose and wobbly' that there may be a reason, and that I may be changing the function by tightening the rod up. Will have to see. The R&R carrier I think has a tight rod and seems to work well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james lambert 3,059 Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 I assume this is Saiga 12 too much free space between puck and op rod allows the puck to hammer the carrier. Most of them I measured several years ago , had about .025 clearance before bottoming on the puck so that's how I used to set them up. I never saw any official numbers for this, and someone else on the forum may know more Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) Yes, Saiga 12. One other idea I was toying with was the CSS performance puck with the little nipple on it, installed backwards with the nipple towards the op rod. If the body of it is the same length as the OE puck, than that nipple could potentially be very close to the difference I measured in mine, .051". I'll contact Greg @ CSS and see what he thinks. I'm betting that nipple isn't designed to take the force of contacting the op rod though. Also, playing around with it, I am able to thread the op rod into the carrier without being bottomed out and with no wobble, at an OAL of 3.339", so a little closer to the original OAL. Edited January 25, 2015 by Mullet Man Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 As the factory have set the OAL to a different length than would be achieved by simply screwing the rod all the way in, I would suggest that it would be important to keep this length. After all it would be easier and quicker to just screw it all the way in, so why haven't they? I am in the same boat, as my carrier has cracked ,and needs welding. It was always 'loose and wobbly' out of the box. I propose to have a longer op rod machined up, and then shave it down progressively until the original OAL is achieved with the rod screwed in tight, then pin the rod in place. You could use shim stock to take up the slack, but a longer rod seemed a more elegant solution. Might even try to get a Titanium version done if I can find someone to do it ! I do have slight concerns that if the factory left the rod 'loose and wobbly' that there may be a reason, and that I may be changing the function by tightening the rod up. Will have to see. The R&R carrier I think has a tight rod and seems to work well. There isn't a whole lot about these guns coming out of the factory, that I trust as gospel. Having a new rod machined wouldn't be that big a deal, it doesn't need to be contoured like the OE rod. It just needs threaded on one end, cut to the right length and hardened. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/93561-how-much-wobble-is-too-much/?hl=piston There's a thread where JTE weighs in a little bit on the subject. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Greg @ CSS says the puck with the nipple can be installed either way. Gonna order one and see what that eraser sized nipple measures at. Fingers crossed it'll get me close. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ewoketeer 35 Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I have one of the CSS pucks and I've found it does, indeed, help with cycling. Two or three years ago, Pauly wrote that he had found the puck to increase reliability, with the nipple toward the op rod. When you install the puck with the nipple toward the op rod, it rests against the op rod and there is no play (rock the shotty back and forth (muzzle up then down) with a regular puck. You can feel and hear the puck move. Then swap it out for the CSS puck and rock it back and forth--you will feel or hear nothing. When the shotty is fired, the puck shoves, rather than strikes, the op rod, making for a longer push. In fact, it was Pauly's write up that decided the issue for me as far as acquiring one for my own use! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 When messing with the op rod - be sure the bolt locks FULLY into the lugs when 'home'. The bolt must achieve full rotation. Shouldn't be a problem, but always check! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted January 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 (edited) When messing with the op rod - be sure the bolt locks FULLY into the lugs when 'home'. The bolt must achieve full rotation. Shouldn't be a problem, but always check! 10-4 to that. Edited January 31, 2015 by Mullet Man Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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