imarangemaster 315 Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 (edited) Well, I decided to go up the hill and go plinking in the woods yesterday. There is an advantage to being less than 1/2 hour from the Tahoe National Forest! The Saiga AKM retro build, I wanted to shoot it for the first time since I "restored it" to intended condition. I should not have to adjust the zero at all, as I did not mess with barrel or sights. I had it dialed in absolutely dead nuts on. I'll probably just do some snap shooting of pop cans, off-hand. The SP1 carbine clone, I needed to sight in with my MK262 MOD1 77 grain OTM 5.56 ammo. I was just doing a 25 yard sight-in for a 50/250 yard zero with both iron and red dot sights. Then thought I'd do some pop can bouncing with it too. I'used my 55 grn FMJBT reloads for that! Damn MK262 is too expensive to plink with, even though I got a deal on it last year at $0.60 a round. I'll dial it in all the way next time I get to a regular range. Being behind enemy lines in The Peoples Republik of Kalifornistan, I decided to run the AR with a bullet button and the AK with the mag-lock, and just use 10 rounders for two reasons. One, I really want to enjoy the feel of shooting them with the pistol grips. The second reason is, I don't know how knowledgeable the local USFS LEO is. I know he is new, but don't know anything else. Rest assured, though, both will be back to California compliant "Featureless" with Solar Tactical paddles and 30 round mags, as soon as I get home. Edited February 2, 2015 by imarangemaster Quote Link to post Share on other sites
imarangemaster 315 Posted February 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Range Report: I set up in a clearing with about 50 yards, which is fine. My eyes suck at 62, and I was just using irons.... The Saiga ran like an absolute champ! Even though I had it dialed in before in the stock configuration, I was wondering if a different grip would change anything. It was dead nuts on. Shooting off-hand, standing, I nailed every pop can and pine cone from 35 to 50 yards, even nailing some in the trees at maybe 60 yards. What a trooper. Ammo was 122 grain FMJ Tulammo from Wally World. ZERO malfunctions. The Tactical TriDelta brake, the vented gas tube, and the recoil buffer made it purr like a pussycat, albeit a Russian pussycat! The new SP1 Carbine clone build, was another story. I had not fired it since I assembled it last month with a Colt 6420 1/7" twist carbine barrel. First of all, It hated my two handloads I brought, both of which worked well in other AR builds. One load was 21.5 grains of IMR-4198, and one was 25.5 grains of IMR-4064 . Both loads used 55 grain FMJs and CCI #41 primers. Every shot short stroked, and would not pick up the next round! I checked gas rings, key staking, etc. All parts are Colt, including the chrome 601 BCG. I tried a standard 3.0 oz. buffer and a 3.6 oz H buffer. It made absolutely no difference! The MK262 MOD1 77 OTMs, however, functioned fine. Every time it picked up the next rounds, and locked the bolt back when the mag was empty. The MK262 ammo was VERY snappy! It was not until later I figured out what was wrong... The second problem with the AR was: I had to have the sight all the way to the right to even come close to center it on target. I am sure that is from using a barrel vice instead of receiver block, and have to torque the hell out of it to line up the barrel nut. I plan on removing the barrel and resetting it. At a visual glance, I can see the barrel slightly canted from the torque. Not a big deal, and an easy fix. So, what was wrong with the cycling????? A little background. I have two complete Carbine lowers for the upper. One is a Nodak Spud 601 that I was running with a bullet button and no kydex paddle for 10 round magazines and pistol grip use. The other one is an Anderson forged with a pinned stock and a Solar Tactical paddle on the pistol grip for "California featureless" to be running with high cap mags. When I went to the range, I put the upper on the NDS bullet button lower with the H buffer so I could feel the pistol grip. The Anderson lower that I did not use has a Colt 3.0 buffer and a USGI M4 spring. When I broke the AR I was shooting down, I was looking at the spring. IT WAS A D@MN RIFLE LENGTH SPRING I was using in the NDS bullet buttoned lower! I must have grabbed a rifle spring out of the parts box when I was assembling the NDS lower. That explains why these loads had worked when I used them in the M4gery upper I gave my son, as I used the Anderson lower with Colt M4 spring on it! I feel like such a DUMBASS! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OAKOC 0 Posted April 10, 2015 Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 imarangemaster, Nice Saiga AKM retro build. Did you use an original forearm retainer, or did you use a two-piece retainer? The photo kind of looks like a two-piece retainer. Next question, do you like the retainer used? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mixednuttz 123 Posted April 10, 2015 Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 If you had to move the windage all the way over on the AR, your receiver face may be out of square. It's easy to fix with a squaring tool. Takes like 5 minutes once you remove the barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
imarangemaster 315 Posted April 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 (edited) I re-indexed the barrel on the SP1 clone. There was a little slop in the upper receiver notch, so I shimmed it. Dead center now, though I am switching to a 16" flat top M4 upper with 1/7" twist. (long story). On the Siaga, I used an aluminum 2 piece retainer. I wish I had gotten the steel two piece, though, but no big deal. It works perfect. I could not see pulling FSB and gas block to install a regular retainer, not when it is dead nuts on as it is! Here's my Tactical (short)Tri-Deta 14x1L brake and the two piece aluminum handguard retainer from CSS. I use a heavier AKM cleaning rod, and an offset washer behind the brake to keep the cleaning rod in. I have fired probably 500 rounds, and the cleaning rod never moves. Nice and snug, even without the little pass through hole in the gas block. Edited April 12, 2015 by imarangemaster Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OAKOC 0 Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 On the Siaga, I used an aluminum 2 piece retainer. I wish I had gotten the steel two piece, though, but no big deal. It works perfect. I could not see pulling FSB and gas block to install a regular retainer, not when it is dead nuts on as it is! Here's my Tactical (short)Tri-Deta 14x1L brake and the two piece aluminum handguard retainer from CSS. I use a heavier AKM cleaning rod, and an offset washer behind the brake to keep the cleaning rod in. I have fired probably 500 rounds, and the cleaning rod never moves. Nice and snug, even without the little pass through hole in the gas block. Thank You for the information! Much appreciated. I had been wanting to install a "regular" forearm on my Saiga and I like the look on yours. Now I'm just looking into acquiring all the pieces and completing the conversion. I like what you did with the cleaning rod, with the lugs cut off on the Saiga, I thought it wouldn't be possible to install a cleaning rod under the barrel and have it actually stay in place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
imarangemaster 315 Posted April 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) On the Siaga, I used an aluminum 2 piece retainer. I wish I had gotten the steel two piece, though, but no big deal. It works perfect. I could not see pulling FSB and gas block to install a regular retainer, not when it is dead nuts on as it is! Here's my Tactical (short)Tri-Deta 14x1L brake and the two piece aluminum handguard retainer from CSS. I use a heavier AKM cleaning rod, and an offset washer behind the brake to keep the cleaning rod in. I have fired probably 500 rounds, and the cleaning rod never moves. Nice and snug, even without the little pass through hole in the gas block. Thank You for the information! Much appreciated. I had been wanting to install a "regular" forearm on my Saiga and I like the look on yours. Now I'm just looking into acquiring all the pieces and completing the conversion. I like what you did with the cleaning rod, with the lugs cut off on the Saiga, I thought it wouldn't be possible to install a cleaning rod under the barrel and have it actually stay in place. I used a crush washer from a 308 AR, and crushed it into place with the excess hanging down t the 6 o'clock position. It is a WASR cleaning rod, and a AKM cleaning kit that goes with it is in the buttstock. With the angle of the hole in the forearm being slightly upward from breech to muzzle ends, so it makes it tight against the muzzle end. I really have to make an effort to remove the cleaning rod. It's not going to fall out! Also, if you notice, I am using a vented AKM gas tube to compensate for the AK being over-gased. (I was told it was Chinese, but it may be East German). The vented gas tube, along with the Tactical Tri-Delta brake and Damage Industries recoil buffer, tame the heck out of the 7.62x39. I especially appreciate the control gain, having to use the Solar Tactical paddle grip to be CA compliant with my pre-2000 high capacity magazines. Edited April 13, 2015 by imarangemaster Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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