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forsaken352

Scope Mount

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So, awhile back I had purchased a BP-02 low profile scope mount from Kalinka, like I had done in the past with my previous .308. Upon receiving it, I had noticed a few differences between the new mount and the mount I used to have. The new one, unlike the picture of the item on their website, was using some screws that looked like they were zinc plated or something. For me, that wasn't that big of a deal, though. I figured I could get some higher quality screws, then I'd loctite them in, and all would be well. Well, just a few days ago, I checked the mount for any looseness because I've felt like something had a little "wiggle" to it in the past, but could not find the culprit, until now. Seems one of the 2 screws holding the picatinny rail to the mount body has been stripped this whole time. So, basically, even though I've never gotten around to trying to zeroing my scope, even if I had, I would've just been wasting ammunition until I realized something just wasn't "right". So, off comes the BP-02, but what replaces it? I'll be honest, I like the side rail mounts, probably more than the Texas Weapon System style rails. I've come across this recently:

 

https://www.legionusa.com/ak-optic-mount-low-profile-by-lynx-arms-manta.html

 

I was kind of curious if anybody has used the Lynx mount, and if so, what they thought of it. It looks to be a solid product, and I like the fact it is made in Russia (just because. Russian rifle, Russian mount.), but it may be too low for using a scope without some very tall rings. For that fact alone, I'll probably move on to something more suitable for scoped use. What is the general consensus on the Midwest mount?

 

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?groupid=1023&name=Midwest+Industries+Optic+Mounts

 

Aside from that, does anybody have any other suggestions? Thanks!

 

-Forsaken

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Dang. Bp02 was my "cheap" option I was thinking of getting.

 

Well, other decent options in the $100 range are the something something 04 mount from KVAR, the midwest industries mount. In general, I would prefer integrated rings to a pic rail setup for both height and weight.

 

Your link to the M I rail is about as cheap as I have seen the real thing anywhere, but there have been a lot of fakes on ebay lately. It is the lowest rail type I am aware of, and is supposed to be light and solid.

 

If you have cash, the Royally screwed products seem to be about the nicest on the market.

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I have gone through a half dozen mounts for my AKs over the years. TWS, Ultimak, a bunch from Kalinka.

 

I recently got the RS 301 with the appropriate upper for my Aimpoint through Brownells. It is without a doubt the best mount I have seen for the AK to date. It is the only one I've ever been completely happy with.  I'm sorry I wasted all that money on the Kalinka crap and the TWS and Ultimak are going up for sale to pay for another RS 303 with an AKR rail

 

http://rsregulate.com/optics.php

Edited by dmk0210

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Thanks for the suggestions. I really like the RS-303 with the AKM 30mm rings, but I'm not sure if most larger objective lensed scopes (~40mm for example) would clear. I may have to go with the AKR (picatinny rail) for the 303 if I plan to use a scope. Check out how low the AKM sits with this Aimpoint, and imagine trying to use a scope:

 

RS-Regulate-AK-300-Series-Mount.jpg

Edited by forsaken352

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His components are modular. You can basically mix and match to get the hight you like. Message "horse" here. That's the owner of RS regulate.

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His components are modular. You can basically mix and match to get the hight you like. Message "horse" here. That's the owner of RS regulate.

Not only that, but with the AKR rail, you will use a set of rings to mount your scope to the rail. So you get the appropriate height rings to make the objective clear.

 

 With an AK though, a smaller objective will help a lot with mounting the scope low. 

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So, awhile back I had purchased a BP-02 low profile scope mount from Kalinka, like I had done in the past with my previous .308. Upon receiving it, I had noticed a few differences between the new mount and the mount I used to have. The new one, unlike the picture of the item on their website, was using some screws that looked like they were zinc plated or something. For me, that wasn't that big of a deal, though. I figured I could get some higher quality screws, then I'd loctite them in, and all would be well. Well, just a few days ago, I checked the mount for any looseness because I've felt like something had a little "wiggle" to it in the past, but could not find the culprit, until now. Seems one of the 2 screws holding the picatinny rail to the mount body has been stripped this whole time. So, basically, even though I've never gotten around to trying to zeroing my scope, even if I had, I would've just been wasting ammunition until I realized something just wasn't "right". So, off comes the BP-02, but what replaces it? I'll be honest, I like the side rail mounts, probably more than the Texas Weapon System style rails. I've come across this recently:

 

https://www.legionusa.com/ak-optic-mount-low-profile-by-lynx-arms-manta.html

 

I was kind of curious if anybody has used the Lynx mount, and if so, what they thought of it. It looks to be a solid product, and I like the fact it is made in Russia (just because. Russian rifle, Russian mount.), but it may be too low for using a scope without some very tall rings. For that fact alone, I'll probably move on to something more suitable for scoped use. What is the general consensus on the Midwest mount?

 

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?groupid=1023&name=Midwest+Industries+Optic+Mounts

 

Aside from that, does anybody have any other suggestions? Thanks!

 

-Forsaken

So, I'm curious about this because I'm having the same problem.  I don't think the screws are stripped.  I was able to get one out and I am just going to get some hex head machine screws to replace the cheap screws that cam with my BP-02 high mount.  Until, I noticed one of the screws came loose, the scope was holding zero very well after removing and replacing it on the rifle numerous times.  I'm wondering why you don't try using better fasteners.  are the screws stripped in such a way that would prevent you from being able to remove them?  Or are the threaded holes in the mount itself stripped?

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So, I'm curious about this because I'm having the same problem.  I don't think the screws are stripped.  I was able to get one out and I am just going to get some hex head machine screws to replace the cheap screws that cam with my BP-02 high mount.  Until, I noticed one of the screws came loose, the scope was holding zero very well after removing and replacing it on the rifle numerous times.  I'm wondering why you don't try using better fasteners.  are the screws stripped in such a way that would prevent you from being able to remove them?  Or are the threaded holes in the mount itself stripped?

 

 

The mount itself is stripped. I can only assume it came from the manufacture that way because I never even got around to using the rifle with the scope mount installed. If I wanted to, I could probably run a tap through it and use a larger screw, but honestly, I don't even care to try. You really do get what you pay for, and I'm fine with that. I'll just stick with the higher quality stuff from now on.

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GUYS,

I'VE USED SEVERAL BP-02'S; I'VE ALWAYS FOUND MOST, IF NOT ALL OF THE SCREWS NOT TIGHT.

 

ABLE TO GET 1/2-3/4 TURN ON MOST.

 

I'VE TAKEN TO JUST AUTOMATICALLY REMOVING THE SCREWS, ONE AT A TIME, DEGREASE THE HOLES WITH ALCOHOL, AND SNUG DOWN TIGHT WITH FOREVER LOCTITE.

 

GO EASY ON THE "SNUG DOWN TIGHT" BIT, BECAUSE YOU START GETTING THAT CREEPY "IT'S GONNA STRIP!" FEEDBACK, AS YOU START TO GET DOWN ON IT.

 

I THINK THE MOUNT MATERIAL WOULD TEST OUT AS PRETTY SOFT.

 

I THINK IT WOULD BE AN EXCELLENT MOUNT IF ONE WAS ABLE TO PUT SOME STEEL INSERTS IN THOSE HOLES.

 

JESS1344

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I just found some M4 hex head machine screws at Home Depot for 75 cents a piece. Theats the same thread as the stock kalinks phillips screws.  I'm gonna try using these with some loc tite.  We'll see.  I know that the BP02 is not top of the line, but like I said, it held zero well aftere repeated removals until the screws gave way.  For 3 bucks,  it seems worth trying to fix it, even if just to use as a spare or to give someone as a gift.  

 

I really prefer using the S308 with iron sight.  It looks cooler that way and it's a more durable system.  Putting optics on an AK is sunderstandable, but it just doesnt feel quite right.  It also looks cooler without optics in my opinion.  

 

I get 3-4 MOA with iron sights at 100 yds.  If I want to reach out and touch a target past 100 yds, I have an M700SS for that.  


As for the new screws, the hex head screws are not tapered like the stock ones. Does anyone think that it's possible that the flat mating surface wont work?  I bought some longer philips screws identical to the kalinka screws, just longer.  I could try those with loc tite instead of the hex head screws.  I would just like the hex head to get it a bit more snug.

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No.  I just went with the hex head bolts and it tightened down really snug.  Are the star drive srcew tapered so that the screw will end up flush with the inside mount plate of the rail.  The hex head bolts worked to tightene down solid w/ loctite.  But they stick up so high that the tightening rods that fasten the accessory to the rail wont fit in the slot where the bolt head stick up.  I was luckily able to get my scope bak into the original position without using those slots. I think this set up could work very well during firing.  The quick disconnect system on the  Kalinka mounts seem to work very well.  So far.  On a down note:  I tried replacing the screws on the side rail of the mount as well and when tightening, the threaded holes stripped in the side mount out when i was tighten in the new fasteners.  I dont use the side rail for anything,  I have a quad rail hand guard.  Long story short, these mounts seem to have some strengths and some major weaknesses.  But for a single rail optic I am pretty pleased with what I was able to cobble together.

Edited by EZTundra77

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Excellent thread and discussion gentlemen and thank you.  My only feeble concern would be if you could take down the Saiga for eventual necessary cleaning or inspection without having to remove either the mount or scope or both to do so , thus possibly loosing scope zero.  Our old side mount UDT, (I think that is right) is about as low as you can go without having to remove it or the Eoteck to get that pesky AK top cover off.  The top cover just clears.  HB of CJ (old coot)

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The good QD side mounts return to zero. That's the point.

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The good QD side mounts return to zero. That's the point.

Yup. I don't understand the need or want (really, what's the benefit?) to remove the top cover with the mount still in place. It's QD for a reason and as stated, a good mount will return to zero.

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I have been going through this problem for the better part of the last year. I have several Sica three lights that shoot sub – M OA accuracy. The challenge for me is finding a scope mount to hold a 10 X or higher magnification scope reliably and repeatably without shifting zero just by leaning against the wall of my gun safe.

 

What I have ended up doing is going for one of the Polish beryl- style rails. The downside is that you do lose the normal Ironside functionality. But to be honest I don't think that the quick detach scope mounts really at a tremendous amount of value anyway. I own one of every time except the GG&G, which I am buying next week in order to put a red dot on my Saiga 223.

 

What I have learned is that all of these siderails scope mounts are basically a cantilever beam. They will all shift they will all move and none of them will really hold zero very effectively.

 

Everybody says that there's does, but when you've owned them all like I have in your shooting as accurately as I do with high-powered optics, that's really where the rubber hits the road. there are too many idiot shooters on YouTube that are doing tests with poorly supported rifles using crap ammo, and really low powered optics. Taking it off and putting it back on and seeing the same 4 inch grouping at 100 yards is not an appropriate test of accuracy or ability to hold zero.

 

If you want something that is accurate and repeatable, go for the Polish style rail that hinges into the rear site block and bolts on to the rear tank. That is the best mound I have found yet for any kind of object. It does make cleaning a little more challenging, but this is an AK not an AR.

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agreed   ^^^^^^^          I think the side rail on the 308. isn't strong enough to hold larger optics.   Mine will flex in the rivits holding the rail on.   go with a tws rail or beryle style.    Krebs makes one too.   


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