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What will help most with shot-to-shot times the most?


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Greetings. So with the help of you folks I was able to thread a friends barrel recently on a partially converted saiga. I say "partially" because it takes AK mags, but the rear of the gun only has a tapco type stock with the trigger in its original place.

 

So we went to shoot the rifle yesterday and I noticed a fair amount of muzzle rise and a lot of time in between shots. Now keep in mind Im more of a pistol guy and have no formal rifle training other than stance and keeping the elbows down tight, and the owner doesnt have much more than that.

 

All said we got wondering what (in addition to training) what would help the most with this?

 

1) A full conversion? The logic being rear hand placement would be closer to the center of the gun.

 

2) Red dot? 

 

3) A fore grip add-on like this one. I know he wants to avoid a vertical fore grip as they're hideous looking. 

 

I also know he's looking to stay with a flash hider as opposed to a muzzle brake.

 

Thanks!

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Thanks, but i know he wants to stay with a flash hider as opposed to a brake.

..then he'll just have to accept slow recoil recovery, unless he wants to hang a bunch of weight off the front of the rifle to keep it down.

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I may be in the minority here, but I do believe that a full conversion helps with muzzle climb and perceived recoil. The stock/pg/trigger conversion IMO produces vastly improved balance and ergonomics. This leads to better control of the rifle, and faster follow up shots. YMMV

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Anything that add weight to the front of the gun will reduce muzzle climb.

 

A compensator reduces muzzle climb be redirecting muzzle gases to offset that climb.

A brake reduces recoil by directing gases to the sides, and slightly rearward, reducing recoil.

There are comps and brakes that do both of these things.

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CFR,

 OF ALL THE ONES I'VE TRIED, THE PRIMARY WEAPONS FSC-47 DOES BOTH THE BEST.

 

 THE NEW DRAKON MAY DO BETTER, BUT I HAVEN'T HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO TRY IT YET, AND IT'S ALSO ALMOST $50 MORE.

 

 JESS1344

 

 

By "both" do you mean tame muzzle flip as well as suppress flash?

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CFR,

 OF ALL THE ONES I'VE TRIED, THE PRIMARY WEAPONS FSC-47 DOES BOTH THE BEST.

 

 THE NEW DRAKON MAY DO BETTER, BUT I HAVEN'T HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO TRY IT YET, AND IT'S ALSO ALMOST $50 MORE.

 

 JESS1344

 

 

By "both" do you mean tame muzzle flip as well as suppress flash?

 

CFR,

 YES, BOTH MUZZLE RISE AND FLASH,

 

 I HAVE THEM ON 'X39, 'X54R, AND 'X51 GUNS.

 

JESS1344 

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"Control" has more to do with technique than whatever is on the gun.  Having said that - a full conversion is in order to primarily get the rifle's center of gravity closer to the shooter.  Without a conversion, the center of gravity is farther away from the shooter's body.

Check out a video of me shooting a stock AKM (semi-auto) wherein I shoot 10 rounds into a paper plate at 5 yards in less than 2.5 seconds.

https://youtu.be/LkioHTlp3Qs

Or the SKS video on the same channel in case anyone thinks the standard AKM slant brake makes a huge difference.

https://youtu.be/IbeXm9UNcRE

 

Check out this one - it illustrates how a longer firearm is a hinderance.  Because the AR308 has an adjustable buttstock and I can get it closer to me, I can shoot it much faster than the longer FN FAL.

https://youtu.be/uQz88Zs4H1o

 

As you can see, technique is more important than anything else.  Once your technique is mastered, then the brakes, etc. can help even more.

 

Hope this helps,

 

cheers

 

tire iron

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"Control" has more to do with technique than whatever is on the gun.  Having said that - a full conversion is in order to primarily get the rifle's center of gravity closer to the shooter.  Without a conversion, the center of gravity is farther away from the shooter's body.

 

 

This is something I was wondering, as it makes a lot of sense.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Practice more. Some muzzle devices can help, but if muzzle rise is a chief complaint with 7.62x39 then the shooter is probably inexperienced. The round doesn't have that much kick to it.

 

Get the rear end converted, then learn to pull the rifle tight in and lean into it. Most of the muzzle rise will disappear with the right stance and method.

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Getting the stock to be in-line with the barrel does help a bit.

 

The traditional AK stock that angles up does increase rise over say an M4 type setup.

Just want that force vector to be as close to zero as reasonable.

This puts more energy into the meat of the shoulder and less is expended upward.

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