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New Saiga 12, anything I need to know?


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Just bought this Saiga 12, it should be arriving this week. Can anyone tell me about it?

 

Is there anything wrong with it, anything I need to change, any suggested upgrades?

 

It only comes with the one magazine so I'll probably order an MD drum to go with it.

 

Will a magpul Zhukov stock fit this?

 

Thanks guys!

 

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As for the hand guard not sure, made for a rifle but if it has enough material to remove might work, its yours so make it so you like it. Might wanna get some plugs for the holes above the PG, and that front sight looks like it has a bubblegum weld on it (could be wrong) might want to blend that better,that's all that sticks out to me.

 

Also look into CSS steel 8 rounders, love mine.

Edited by Gzus Kryst
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Also, I was told that this is one of the guns that came in with too short of a barrel so an extension is welded on? It's difficult to see what's going on there in the picture.

 

I wouldn't mind cutting it down and welding on a monster brake or something.

Edited by norinco982lover
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That looks so good, the magpul would be a visual downgrade, but I can see why you would want it. It looks decent, is foldy, and has the bigger footprint/ cheekweld fix that is lacking on most AK shotgun stocks.

 

Legion, and a couple other shops did some imports in this configuration. What you have is one of the many Saiga 12-030 /040 series variations.

 

Non adjustable gas, (as cloned by the vepr) Yours has rock and lock, and some of those had a last round bold hold open. Most didn't. If yours does, you scored. Some of them were marked S12-K, and those generally had permed on flash hiders, or something to get the barrel length up.

 

The MD arms drum is the one to get, and that would look great with the CSSpecs (which is different than CSS) steel mags. http://stores.csspecs.com/saiga-12-gauge/ Those are also excellent magazines.

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Rock and lock means the style of magazine that rocks in like a normal AK mag, vs the straight insert style.

 

My old video shows the difference, and might make mag changes a little easier for you too.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vMVgvKxFkM&feature=youtu.be

 

Your gas block cannot use an adjustable plug. Your gun is basically stuck on wide open throttle, which is marketed as "self regulating". You have no settings, so it is one setting for all ammo. You can't screw it up, but the really hot stuff is going to kick a little harder for you. The gun may wear slightly faster too, but I have never heard of one actually being worn out.

 

The puck is the small floating piston inside the gas block. With your style, it is removed by undoing the lever for the gas tube on the right side near the sight leaf. Then use the part that would be the piston on a normal AK to hook the inside of the puck and pull it to the rear. From there you can brush out your gas block and poke something into the ports.

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Sure looks like it has an adjustable gas block to me.

Looks like an early Dinzag rear sight conversion.

 

My mistake. You are right. IMO this is much cooler. Throw a Tac47 autoplug in there!

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Yup. Probably won't be able to turn it by hand. If you got the little wrench looking tool with it, hold it sideways across the slots in the plug to simultaneously push the button in and then rotate it. #1 is for full power heavy loads (slugs, buck and turkey loads), #2 is for low power light weight loads.

 

I agree with Gunfun, look into getting an Autoplug.

 

Your lower hand guard retainer is ummm interesting and so is the gas block pin that looks to be a home jobber. Overall, definitely a "unique" bit of work done to it, by whomever.

Edited by Mullet Man
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Yup. Probably won't be able to turn it by hand. If you got the little wrench looking tool with it, hold it sideways across the slots in the plug to simultaneously push the button in and then rotate it. #1 is for full power heavy loads (slugs, buck and turkey loads), #2 is for low power light weight loads.

 

I agree with Gunfun, look into getting an Autoplug.

 

Your lower hand guard retainer is ummm interesting and so is the gas block pin that looks to be a home jobber. Overall, definitely a "unique" bit of work done to it, by whomever.

Thanks for saying it nicely haha.

 

I think someone did a bit of a hack job to it then the guy I'm getting it from did his best to fix it. Hopefully it's nothing I can't fix myself or leave as is. I will try and fix that pin sticking out of the gas block.

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I will let you know when it gets here. It looks like the dinzag replacement bolt on rear sight block and handguard retainer with the dinzag lower handguard retainer. Then they welded on the top ears of a front sight base.

 

I guess that's nice to find out that I have at least $300 in parts there haha.

 

http://www.dinzagarms.com/saiga_12/aks12.html

Edited by norinco982lover
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I don't know if I want a peep sight on a shotgun haha.

I think you might be surprised.

Shotguns are fast aiming type guns and the peep is a naturally fast (and accurate) sight, they work pretty well together.

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I'll have to see how well it works out with this short of a sight radius. I have had mojos on a Mosin Nagant years ago.

 

One option is a Krebs ghost ring/peep rear sight leaf. Easy swap since you already have the AK rear sight setup.

 

I find it odd that whoever did the front sight on your S12 didn't take the time, when they had the torch in hand, to weld up the old sporter trigger holes. Is that part of the windage drum welded in place too?

Edited by Mullet Man
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That definitely looks like the windage drum.

 

For some reason I was thinking it was just from the welding (as I know nothing about welding) but it can't be anything but the windage drum haha.

 

He still hasn't shipped it. I'll chime in when it gets here.

 

I'm going to get the tac47 plug for $49 in the store and maybe an MD20 drum as well.

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Got the gun today. Anyone know what that silver pin is that's sticking out the side of the Front gas block?

 

Also, this is one of the ones that had a short barrel extension welded on. Can I just cut the welds and remove it and install a muzzle device? If it's going to be difficult I could always have someone cut it down several inches and pin a monster brake on there if anyone knows someone that does that.

 

Thanks guys.

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"Front gas block." you probably mean just "front block."

 

 

The pin is hackery. There are two small pins which hold the gas block on. Looks like Jethro lost one and used part of a coat hanger or something and didn't bother to trim it flush. You probably will want to get the correct pin. Since there is no source of those, the way to do it is this: find a drill index with fine gradiations in sizes, preferably metric. Find the tightest fit i.e. you would  really need to hammer it gently to get it in, with a punch. cut off the drill bit shank into the pin you want.

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Good idea with the pin.

 

The hammer pin keeps walking out a little bit when cycling the gun I noticed. It doesn't back out all the way from the frame, it just backs out enough that you can see the "large" side of the pin head is out of its hole in the receiver.

 

Edit: no axis retaining plate. Someone really didn't know what they were doing with this conversion.

 

Good thing this was cheap.

Edited by norinco982lover
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Good thing you caught that. That's kind of a big deal. May as well move the gas block forward and see what fudgery happened there while you are sorting out the pin thing.

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Ordered the axis plate, Tromix bolt on handle, and some plugs to fill those holes.

 

If the gun fires tomorrow (I'm assuming it should be on setting 2 with birdshot?) then I'm going to order an MD drum and the tac47 plug.

 

Also, the stock has neither of the two screws. :/

 

Now to find some screws.

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Well the gun fired as a single shot. It would feed the next shell but hammer wouldn't reset. 

 

My disconnector (whatever its called that goes inside the trigger) has a tail (not sure what else to call it) pointing towards the rear of the receiver. One side of the hammer spring was getting caught on the tail of the disconnector. Once I reinstalled the trigger group WITHOUT the spring caught on the tail it now seems to cycle (dry fire) properly. 

 

Before I did this the trigger wouldn't reset if I pressed the trigger to the rear and held it down while racking the slide. 

I'll get the axis plate in on friday night and then try and shoot off a few round to test it out this weekend. 

Then on to the gas issues. 

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