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bookmanwv

Shooting light loads

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I love my MKA but I can't get anything but high brass to run in it.

 

I polished the carrier but it helped very little.

 

Any kits for these guns to make the system run low brass?

 

Appreciate any help.

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What model do you have ? Magnum, Pre-XN, XN, or Match ?

 

 

High brass isn't necessary, it is the weight of the shot 1 1/8 minimum, and the velocity 1300 fps or higher that is what cycles the action.

 

DO NOT try and use the cheapest ammo out there. I have yet to find an MKA that won't run on decent ammo. It may take a few mags before it runs 100% but by 20 rounds it should be running good.

 

Make sure the gun is oiled, the majority of guns that we get that "don't run" have zero oil in them.

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For practice I use Remington Gun Club shells.  For competition I use Remington STS and Winchester AA.   

 

After getting it pretty much broke in, I could run 1200 fps shells with no  problems.  Now with a reduced power recoil spring and a very broken in gun, I can run 1145 fps STS and AA shells all day long.

 

Mine is a pre-XN gun that is kept well lubricated.

 

Bill

 

 


I just bought three more cases of these AA's. They have always run well for my comped XN.
http://m.academy.com/shop/pdp/winchester-aa-target-load-12-gauge-shotshells/pid-1002140?deviceType=true

 

I'm not sure if its still running, but Winchester did offer a $2.00 per box rebate for AA shells. The max rebate was $100 (5 cases) per household.

 

My daughter and I maxed out the rebates.  rolleyes.gif

 

Bill

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I've never understood this 'high brass' - 'low brass' thing that is constantly referred to on US shotgun threads, is that just a way you guys refer to cheap and expensive cartridges? As the height/depth of the 'brass' has sweet FA to do with how the cartridge functions in a gun.

 

Its just that top end manufacturers that produce the most consistant cartridges, and 'pokey' cartridges tend to have high brass. If the same manufacturer produced 2 identical load cartridges one with high brass and one with low, they'd both work just as well as each other.

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I don't know how it got started either,

but generally high brass are hunting type loads and can be loaded heavier than the typical cheaper LB ammo.

 

~90% of what determines how a shell functions is the charge, and shot weight, some of the remaining factors are hull stiffness, and thickness and type of metal base.

 

It's a never ending education campaign.

Edited by toothandnail
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Well, except the "can be loaded heavier" part if you actually look up what pressures various hulls are rated to, the high brass are right in the middle of the pack. Cheapo gun club hulls are actually as high as the remington high brass two piece hulls their slugs and buck come in. Premo stuff like the winchester AA, Rem STS, and Federal Gold medal (which does have medium height actual brass) are the ones rated to the highest pressures, and the first two deliberately have low brass to avoid the need for sizing.

 

Pretty much any one piece plastic hull is actually going to be more durable than a hull which has a separate base wad. This is the thing people should be looking at. Most of the loads which have high brass. Actually have high steel and a paper basewad. Some of them have a separate plastic basewad.

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Thanks for the responses. I'm not a shotgunner by trade so to speak so the info is very informative.

 

I have what is probably an older variant of the MKA. One piece polymer lower and buttstock and a feat of engineering to break the gun down.

 

Mags and lube sound like two doable things to try to get the gun to run better. I'll try that first.

 

Thanks again.

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You don't indicate how many rounds you've shot so far.  My gun is the older (pre-XN) version.  One thing I noticed during the break in was some aluminum shavings from the top of the upper receiver.  Not a lot but enough that I tore down the gun frequently during the first several hundred rounds.  Its not a concern other than the shavings themselves gumming things up.

 

Bill

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