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Anyone install the new ALG Defense AKT AK Trigger yet?


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  • 2 weeks later...

Here’s a quick overview of my install,  there were four alterations required.

  • Trimmed the Tapco retaining plate
  • Removal of repurposed original trigger guard and replaced with aftermarket
  • Grinding hammer for correct fit on hammer pin with BHO
  • Fitting the Roll pin for the Safety clearance

 If anyone is looking to install one of these and already has the aftermarket trigger guard and a different retaining device your install will go quicker.  My personal preference was to salvage the original trigger guard(s) but it didn’t play nice with the ALG trigger, the new ALG hammer bottomed out of the old trigger guard front retaining screw.  

 

My main concern and reason for the original post was the lateral play reported in another youtube on a M92 PAP. The reviewer demonstrated a huge amount of lateral play with his hammer but glad to report not the case on my S762. On the Saiga I had to trim the hammer to get it to fit with the BHO as with the previous Tapco hammer. For the youtube M92 PAP review I don’t think I would run it like and hope he resolves it. If you need to grind your hammer make sure to do a little at a time to keep the hammer centered on the firing pin. If you take too much off on one side or the other the hammer will be off-center. Ideally you want the center of the hammer to center-up with the firing pin.

 

Looking forward to testing the trigger in this rifle, I ordered a cheap trigger scale off eBay for < $20 to see where the trigger breaks.  I suspect it will probably break just like the Tapco since it’s the same spring with the only difference being less trigger travel and the reset.

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If you did have lateral play, a shim could solve it. basically a brass washer filed to just fill up the slop. Or if you really want a hassle with getting the axis pin in, one on either side.

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There is a bit of play in the video you posted (just watched that portion, not the entire thing) but I'm not sure it would cause any functional issues as it is self limiting.   The hammer spring coils are pushing pretty evenly from both sides, keeping it centered.  There aren't really any forces in cycling that would be pushing it side to side.

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If you did have lateral play, a shim could solve it. basically a brass washer filed to just fill up the slop. Or if you really want a hassle with getting the axis pin in, one on either side.

After seeing the video I thought I was going to have that issue right out of the box so I was thrilled not have the play. I don’t know too much about the about the other AK variants and ALG says in one of their promos “some fitting” may be required so I guess as a Saiga owner I lucked out. I doubt if I’ll be doing another ALG trigger, the Tapco’s work fine and I just wanted to see firsthand what the ALG was all about. This rifle is a good candidate for it whereas my other S762 is running a Scout Scope mounted on the Unimak and I just don’t see a need on that S762.

 

Anyway IIRC you were the guy that did the Tapco double-hook mod to limit the travel which was “The Original Trigger Job”, that was a good one but by the time I seen that post I already had the double hook slots cut in which is fine. I suppose if people did it that way you documented it they could accomplish pretty much the same result. Thanks for the feedback

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Yea... it's always interesting (and a bit frustrating) fitting a FCG inside of an AK's or Saiga's receiver which has a manual BHO.  IMO it appears that you did a terrific job of identifying where and how to mod the new AKT FCG to fit and work appropriately within your rifle.  032.gif

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Yea... it's always interesting (and a bit frustrating) fitting a FCG inside of an AK's or Saiga's receiver which has a manual BHO.  IMO it appears that you did a terrific job of identifying where and how to mod the new AKT FCG to fit and work appropriately within your rifle.  032.gif

Thanks you Sir! The more I shoot the S762's (regardless of the trigger installed) the more I like them. Looking forward to getting back out to the range to test this setup. We have been averaging a trip to the range "about" every 3 weeks so I thinking by the end month I should have it tested. Thanks for the feedback and up vote.

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My Trigger scale arrived. The ALG trigger is breaking at 3 ~ 3.25 lbs. I tested my other S762 and was surprised to see it clocking-in between 4.25 ~ 4.5 lbs., so to my surprise the Tapco Double hook is a little heavier. Too me the travel distance between the two triggers is very obvious but the slightly heavier trigger is not is not all that noticeable. The Wheeler scale is made in china but the testing results were consistent with the 1 ~ 1.25lbs difference between the two triggers. I’m leaving the Tapco double hook in my second S762 because is all setup the way I like it. I may purchase the Enhanced AGL version for my Saiga 223 when it’s released. So all good for now, just need to shoot it.

 

Have a great weekend!

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Was your G2 stoned at all?

 

They have a crusty casting line in the middle of the disco and the hammer wing, and tend to be a little out of square on both the hooks. A few minutes with a diamond file will probably take 1.5-3 lbs of pull off of a tapco depending on how bad it is to start with. 

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Was your G2 stoned at all?

 

They have a crusty casting line in the middle of the disco and the hammer wing, and tend to be a little out of square on both the hooks. A few minutes with a diamond file will probably take 1.5-3 lbs of pull off of a tapco depending on how bad it is to start with. 

Never polished it, it was pretty good right of the box but I will give it a try. I like the new trigger but I'm not going to change all of them, the Tapco is great with my Scout scope setup but I'm interested in polishing it a little. Where exactly is the "disco" area?

Edited by Another-Saiga-Fan
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The area where the disco contacts the hammer is the area at the bottom of the pic below:

 

post-37530-0-53571000-1440116144_thumb.jpg

 

Note the casting line going down the center of the hammer. Smoothing this line out at the bottom gives a smoother disconnect release.

 

Below is the way the disconnector engages the hammer:

 

post-37530-0-11654400-1440117171_thumb.jpg

 

And below is the way the sear engages the hammer:

 

post-37530-0-84604900-1440117306_thumb.jpg

 

All areas of engagement both sear and disconnect should be smoothed and polished, but be careful not to change the geometry when removing cast lines, etc.

 

Here is a polished FCG (Sorry pics of polished FCGs in the gun are always difficult:

 

post-37530-0-06486300-1440118372_thumb.jpg

 

This firearm which has the G2 double hook has a 1 7/8 lb trigger pull with the JP springs. 2 3/4 lbs with the factory Combloc springs. G2s can be very good with a little work. :)

Edited by Spacehog
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Egg Zackery. 

 

Kinda no matter what you get, 10minutes with some 2K grit sand paper or finer will make the important bits slipperier. high end, low end.... I can't imagine buying something and putting it in the gun without giving it a once over.

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Will do,  I may even block out some time later today for it. Just going to polish it to start, I don’t have a diamond file as you stated in prior post but will look into one.  Off topic but related, I just completed and AR budget-build and wasn’t about to spend $210 on a Geissele Trigger. I polished up an old Mil-Spec trigger as per this article and it breaks just like the $66 ALG Advanced Combat Trigger (ACT) for the AR so figure I’ll give the Tapco a little buffing like the AR trigger with my Dremel and wire-wheel and see what happens. For what it is the G2 is and its price point it is an excellent trigger right out of the box and if I could only knock off 1/2 of a pound of pull I’ll take it. It does have some miles on it so it may not need much...   

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Truth be told, my diamond files are gone too. I had to borrow some off my brother the last time I worked over a trigger group. They are a handy tool for this kind of thing, but you can make do with a quality ceramic knife sharpener, sand paper with a backer, a diamond knife sharpener, or what have you. I've used good hard regular files, but I don't really recommend something that aggressive for the task. Too much chance of people changing critical angles without realizing how much metal they took off.

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@GunFun, understood.. yesterday I took the trigger out (G2) and just gave it a quick hit with the dremel\wire wheel and it did polish it some but still breaking at < 4.5 lbs. Honestly I can't tell the difference between the 4.5lbs and 3 - 3.25lbs of the ALG. The clear difference is the long travel. That said I'm going to pursue it,  I found some Diamond files on eBay for $9 shipped but then I just dialed-up Harbor Freight (cheap chinese tools)  and found a set for $3.99 which I headed out to get later today...

Edited by Another-Saiga-Fan
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I hardly ever use the diamond files anymore unless Tapco had a really bad day casting. You can start with 600-800 grit wet dry automotive sandpaper with a jewelers file / Popsicle stick backer. You want to remove just enough material from the engagement surfaces to remove any deep pits or scratches. Once that it done, just progress to finer grits, I do 1000/2000/3000 and final polish with flits or Maas.

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Picked up the file set and  tried to duplicate what your tweak and then took a couple more averages with the trigger gauge and its clocking in at 4.25 lbs. so we’ll call it a ¼ pound reduction after filing so that’s going to do it that one. I don’t see it doing any better than that unless I play with the spring which I’m not going to do. I have two more G2 double hook rigs, one in my Saiga 308 and another in one of my Saiga 223. I’m going dig out the 308 and put the gauge on it to see what its measuring. Now that I have a benchmark if its at 4.5lbs or less I’m not going to touch it.  I’m still a fan of the Tapco G2 Double Hook and will not be replacing those triggers.  I may add the Enhanced ALG trigger (when it released) to my second Saiga 223 which has the Tapco single hook.

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Well numbers are meaningful.

 

I can say the one I did in the video was a lot worse than any of the other ones I've handled. It really does vary a surprising amount from trigger to trigger. I still don't see how they managed to design it with a cast line there, and not have a jig to at least hit each one with an end mill and flatten it out. 

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One other area I always polish is the interior of the sleeve holding the disconnector to the trigger and the centers of the axis pins holding where it passes through the trigger and hammer. Slickening those surfaces up will also give you a little more smoothness and a little less pull weight.

 

To do the interior of the sleeve, I just roll up 1000-2000 grit sand paper to the appropriate diameter.

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  • 2 weeks later...

OP, can you elaborate on why you had to trim the hammer to fit with the BHO lever? Did the hammer or BHO just not fit when you tried to situate them in the receiver before pushing the pin through? Here is my experience with the install, wondering if your problem was the same or not.

 

I finally got around installing the AKT on my Saiga 7.62 last night and had a weird problem trying to get the hammer pin completely through to the other side. The pin went through the receiver and out the other end, but not far enough to fit the axis pin retaining plate on the grove of the pin. The weird part was if I removed the hammer, left the BHO lever in and drove the pin through, it went through all the way. Likewise if I left the hammer in and removed the BHO lever, the pin would go through all the way. But when I tried pushing the pin through with both the hammer AND the BHO lever, it would not go in all the way. I ended up removing the BHO lever completely since it was a PITA anyway and sometimes got in the way of my trigger finger but still, I think it's something worth noting.

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OP, can you elaborate on why you had to trim the hammer to fit with the BHO lever? Did the hammer or BHO just not fit when you tried to situate them in the receiver before pushing the pin through? Here is my experience with the install, wondering if your problem was the same or not.

 

I finally got around installing the AKT on my Saiga 7.62 last night and had a weird problem trying to get the hammer pin completely through to the other side. The pin went through the receiver and out the other end, but not far enough to fit the axis pin retaining plate on the grove of the pin. The weird part was if I removed the hammer, left the BHO lever in and drove the pin through, it went through all the way. Likewise if I left the hammer in and removed the BHO lever, the pin would go through all the way. But when I tried pushing the pin through with both the hammer AND the BHO lever, it would not go in all the way. I ended up removing the BHO lever completely since it was a PITA anyway and sometimes got in the way of my trigger finger but still, I think it's something worth noting.

As GunFun said take a couple thousands off. I used a little bench grinder and I used the side of the wheel where is perfectly flat. Take a little off, cool with water and test fit and continue to grind as necessary. I took some off both sides but you will favor the BHO side more when grinding. Keep in mind when grinding you want the hammer to stay on the center of your firing pin.

BTW I had it out for the first time two weeks ago and it performed as expected. Let put it this way I have a couple converted Saiga rifles and I be won’t running out buying more ALG’s to exchange my remaining TAPCO triggers. Personally I think the Tapco Double-Hook is a better trigger, and for those who like to do mods follow GunFun’s link in his sig for How to do a decent trigger Job

 

EDIT: typo

Edited by Another-Saiga-Fan
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