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Saiga Rifle Non dimpled gas block question


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Before driving out the pins and pulling the GB, I wanted to make sure I understand what I am looking at. For the gas block below both the bottom forward pin AND the long handguard retainer pin are going through channels on the barrel to secure the gas block correct?:

 

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I've heard that a punch & hammer is the usual way. ;)

 

Generally AK pins aren't tapered, yet a lot people still use the left to right rule. Which leads a lot people to ask if that looking down or up the barrel.

Edited by ChileRelleno
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To thread that pesky muzzle for a good Vortex Muzzle Brake, (or other ... or a can) you will have to move back that pesky front site base.  Try to use the rear OEM bottom barrel groove as an alignment point to reset the front site base.  The distance moved back is just about ideal.  You see ... they were trying to help you.  You may/will have to slightly ream/increase either the interior diameter of the front site base OR carefully sand/file down the outside diameter of the barrel end.  Tapered barrel?  Maybe not.

 

All of OEM front site pins I have seen for the AK platform including Saigas are straight pins with no taper.  NOT like AR15 or M16 OEM pins.

 

Then install the front site base in its new rear position using just the one pin.  Use the rear hole on the front site base as a handy provided (very cool) alignment hole.  A Dremal tool works best.  Go slow.  Then you can install the rear pin without even removing and relocating the front site base.  Then make sure the front site base is lined up properly.  To do this is also fun. Remove the top cover and spring assembly and BCG.  Vise up the gun in a good vise.  Place a black strap on the wall...

 

About 20 feet away.  Vertical.  Eyeball the OEM sites looking at the vertical black strap.  Then lower your eyeball and view the strap looking down the bore of your rifle.  They should line up together right to left very closely.  This is an old bore siting trick learned before the dawn of time, or even more early.  This will make sure you are re mounting the site base correctly and it will not be off set wrong.  All of this is fun.  At the same time you can inspect or carefully re do the crown.

 

Of course ... if you have no desire to thread the muzzle for neat future stuff, you can dis regard all of the above.  Hope this helps.  I for one love hobby projects of this nature.  HB

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Thanks for the tips HB. Even though I have no plans to attempt to suppress this AK, the advice given may be helpful to someone down the road viewing this thread. A Bulgarian '74 FSB will be replacing the factory one.

 

I do like your idea about making sure that the FSB is not canted. I had another way in mind, but I may just double check with the method above.

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Does not somebody sell hard rubber rivet looking plugs?  Also we tried short ground down Allen screw head bolts on the outside and hex nuts with lock washers and blue Loctite on the inside.  Looks dorky but works OK.  Or . . . consider painting/applying tiny cool flame jobs coming out of each tiny hole?  :)  HB

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Does not somebody sell hard rubber rivet looking plugs?  Also we tried short ground down Allen screw head bolts on the outside and hex nuts with lock washers and blue Loctite on the inside.  Looks dorky but works OK.  Or . . . consider painting/applying tiny cool flame jobs coming out of each tiny hole?  :)  HB

LOL. I think I will just weld 'em up.

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