Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
forsaken352

What Options Are Left?

Recommended Posts

So, I've been on and off working on removing my FSB from my .308 to thread the muzzle, and I'm completely out of options, except for maybe one. I've tried everything recommended by others to remove it. It will NOT move. Period. I've tossed at it plastic mallets, rubber mallets, hammer and 2x4, 20 ton press (even made special press plates to sit behind the FSB), heat, heat after freeze (focusing heat on just the FSB after freeze), even tried at one point for the hell of it an air chisel with a brass punch chucked up into it. Nothing. I don't understand it, and I'm worried about bending the barrel if I take it too much further, as I don't know what kind of stress is required to do so. So, I'm left with one thought. Cutting the son of a bitch with my dremel and a cutoff wheel. However, I don't know if there are any front sight blocks which can replace it after destroying it. So, is it possible to replace? If so, with what and how?

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just out of curiosity, you did drive out the two pins that hold it to the barrel, right?

The two pin between the barrel collar and the sight base....

 

 

post-1473-0-96139800-1441776855.jpg

Edited by macbeau

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Certainly would seem like them bastards are still in there, but, yes. I did. That's kind of how I've been looking for any movement, too. By looking through the pin holes, you can clearly see that they are perfectly aligned still, after all that abuse I've given it. I could punch those pins right back into place, it's moved that little, if at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmmmm.?  I would focus or trying to turn the fsb left and/or right (around the axis of the bore).

When they drill for the pins, sometimes metal gets embedded between the top of the barrel and inside of the fsb.

You may have to really torque on it.  Like with a long cheater bar.

Maybe soak in some 3 in 1 oil for a bit first.

 

Don't give up.  I am pretty sure it isn't soldered, brazed or welded on... But, if it was made early on a Monday or late on a Friday, I suppose anything is possible.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What he said. Squirt it with penetrant and get an AK adjustment tool and use it with vigor side to side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Soak it with PB blaster. Its a penetrating oil that is awesome on rusted nuts and bolts.it should be able to get in there easy enough. They sell it at autozone and Lowes

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Soak it with PB blaster. Its a penetrating oil that is awesome on rusted nuts and bolts.it should be able to get in there easy enough. They sell it at autozone and Lowes

+1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can give it another try, but I've been giving it sharp raps with the mallets perpendicular to the bore as well as parallel. I'm sure I've got some PB blaster laying around, but one thing I really need to know is, how much force can be applied to the barrel before possibly experiencing some bad juju, especially if I'm applying a lot of torque? Appreciate the help, guys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you pad it and chuck it up tight in a heavy vice, close to the FSB, you should be fine. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you tried a heavy duty gear or pulley puller with a slide hammer?  Get some vise jaws of the proper diameter to match the front barrel.  Chuck up the barreled upper assembly very tight close behind the FSB.  Use a gear puller that sets at least on three points tightly around the rear portion of that pesky FBS.

 

Use a large slide hammer.  Bigger the better.  Like already said, use lots of penetrating oil first.  Make sure everything lines up then start slide hammering.  Make sure the barrel does not slip in the barrel vise jaws.  Don't touch the muzzle crown.  Good luck.  One of those times where more energy is needed.

 

A tight fitting barrel vise jaws are needed.  You can padd it with out door carpet bits.  A nice expensive 5" smooth jaw bolted to the bench bench vise is required.  Use an extension handle to torque up tight the vise.  Use heavier weights on the slide hammer.  Use lots of penetration oil.  I hope this works.  HB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could try an air-hammer in combination with the PB Blaster, iced barrel, and torched FSB.

Good luck!

I can give it another try, but I've been giving it sharp raps with the mallets perpendicular to the bore as well as parallel. I'm sure I've got some PB blaster laying around, but one thing I really need to know is, how much force can be applied to the barrel before possibly experiencing some bad juju, especially if I'm applying a lot of torque? Appreciate the help, guys.

Mine was unbelievable too!

 

What I ended up doing was putting in the vice nice and tight with rubber vice jaws. I then used a 24" pipe wrench clamped to the sight and just started turning it back and forth and around the barrel. After several times turning it around the barrel I then BEAT the SOB with a hammer striking it parralel to the barrel.

Edited by Eric5371

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, no. I've not had the time to monkey with it recently. I've also been thinking of other projects that I could steal parts from the Saiga to use on another rifle. Basically, I've got an SWFA 1-6x24 on Badger rings that I've been considering just swapping to the M1A. I'm not completely giving up on the Saiga project, but, it just might not be what I originally had planned for it to be if I decide to continue with the parts swap. If I ever get around to it, and am successful, you'll hear about it here first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You asked about how much abuse the parts would take....

 

While installing the GB and FSB on a Saiga, on a press, I bowed my 7.62x39 barrel several mm when the FSB bound up. That was with the stamped receiver and rivets taking all the load.

 

The gun shoots perfect and the receiver was undamaged.

 

At this point I would put it back together, before something breaks. Your call.

 

Good luck!

Edited by Sim_Player

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You asked about how much abuse the parts would take....

 

While installing the GB and FSB on a Saiga, on a press, I bowed my 7.62x39 barrel several mm when the FSB bound up. That was with the stamped receiver and rivets taking all the load.

 

The gun shoots perfect and the receiver was undamaged.

 

At this point I would put it back together, before something breaks. Your call.

 

Good luck!

 

Nah. My options are move it, make it move, cut the sum'bitch off, or if all else fails miserably, cut the barrel to 18", crown/thread/etc. I sold a Saiga .308 a few years back because I was too afraid at the time to convert it and do all this work. That aint happening this time. The fucker will move or be removed one way or the other. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Find an FSB that fits and cut the sucker off! smile.png

 

Well, that's just it. Are there any which will fit without turning the barrel on a lathe? I'd prefer leaving that as a last resort.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not really.  S308 FSB has the biggest ID of all AK variants so far as I am aware.  Mine had to be pressed off, then the gunsmith threaded the barrel in his lathe, and cut the step back far enough so the FSB could be reinstalled farther back.  Most people counterbore the FSB to fit over the step when it is moved back (if they don't discard it entirely), but that's mostly because they are trying to do the job on the cheap, and it's easier to accomplish with limited tools.

 

Threading the barrel in a lathe is more expensive, but gives a far superior result, that is suitable for mounting a suppressor later on if you so choose.  And a hydraulic press would make short work of getting that FSB off.  This is just one of those times where it is worth spending a little money on professional help now, rather than wish you had done so later.  Plus, once the barrel has been threaded on a lathe between centers, that work normally includes a re-crown of the muzzle, which often benefits the Saiga rifles in terms of accuracy, and is worth doing on its own.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would find a FSB that you like and look into modifying it and not the barrel, if possible.

 

I accidentally reamed the I/D of my AK-74 FSB to the point where it would spin around the barrel (had to buy another).

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just cut it off with a good saw.  But this depends upon your factory barrel length.  If you have the long barrel version, can you just wack off the thing and recrown the muzzle?  Or if you are in extremes, consider wacking it anyhow and getting a SBR tax stamp.

 

But ... if you already have the short 16" version, then wacking it back will greatly increase the muzzle blast and flash.  You will also need that SBR tax stamp in your hand before cutting.  At that short .308 barrel length a good can is almost required.  Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

21" barrel. I would prefer to leave the factory length, but, as I mentioned above, it's an option to cut/crown/thread if all else fails.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would find a FSB that you like and look into modifying it and not the barrel, if possible.

 

I accidentally reamed the I/D of my AK-74 FSB to the point where it would spin around the barrel (had to buy another).

 

.308 Saiga FSB is significantly bigger in inside diameter from any other AK FSB that I can think of off the top of my head.  I doubt if any other has enough meat to be reamed out for the .308 barrel.  The FSB should be treated like any other S308 specific factory original part; they are irreplaceable for all intents and purposes.  Don't mess it up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just cut it off with a good saw.  But this depends upon your factory barrel length.  If you have the long barrel version, can you just wack off the thing and recrown the muzzle? 

 

Just be sure to have your plan for re-crowning in place before you get out the saw.  The gunsmith I used is an AK guy...  He was able to mount the rear of my receiver in his 4 jaw chuck and indicate it to run straight on his lathe (with the front end in a center), so it could be threaded and re-crowned without removing the barrel.  Most gunsmiths don't usually work on AKs and will probably need the barrel pressed out of the trunnion in order to re-crown in their lathe.  Same gunsmith needed to have my friend's slant-cut VEPR pressed out before he could thread it.  You can re-crown with hand tools also, but you probably don't want to learn on a no-longer-importable Saiga .308.

 

We need to all get through our heads that these are no longer $300 rifles and shotguns anymore, and as such they probably deserve a higher level of gunsmithing than they tended to get in the past.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, hell! You're forgetting, it's an AK. Any AK only ever needs one tool, no matter the job.

 

 

 

mash_hammer.jpg

 

 

Kidding aside, I'll look into it more another time. Got other projects which will come first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

Tromix - Lead Delivery Systems
Dinzag Arms
CHAOS, Inc
Mississippi Auto Arms, Inc
Cobra's Custom
Carolina Shooters Supply
R & R Targets
LONE STAR ARMS
SGM Tactical
Mach 1 Arsenal
K-VAR
C&S Metall-Werkes
American Specialty Ammo
Csspecs Magazines
Phoenix Technology
Evlutionz LLC


  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×