New Video: Removal of AK shotgun Gas Block!

[VforVandetta 42]

Hey guys, I made a video on how to knock your block off if necessary. Just because I hadn't seen too many of them out there. 

 

Im working on my Vepr 12 in the video, but I think It can be applied to the Saiga's as well. Enjoy!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxqKeyTnKxQ&feature=youtu.be

 

-V

[YOT 3,743]

I would never hammer directly on the gas block. Never. Use a block of wood, set square against it, and hit the block of wood with the hammer. 

[VforVandetta 42]

Why? Its a brass hammer.

 

 

[ShadowFire 220]

V has a point.  The gas block is steel, the hammer being brass is softer and will dent and as a result keep the gas block in uniform shape.  The brass will take the abuse not the block.  Simple metalurgy and the same reason the block of wood is also a good idea.  I used a block of wood to knock off my S12 gas block because it was handy at the time.

[VforVandetta 42]

Yup. I tried the wood in front of a heavy hammer, but I was by myself and didn't really have a good way to secure it vertically to try that. Also the brass on metal contact was what really got the block moving. They are pretty right on the Vepr. Thanks for the input!

[YOT 3,743]

Why? Its a brass hammer.

 

 

Wood set squarely on the entire rim of the gas block is much softer than brass and much less likely to cause damage to an expensive part by repeatedly hammering on it, in one place, directly with anything, in lieu of actually using a press. It provides pressure over an even, broader surface, even if it is the rim face. Along with that, a screen capture of your video that shows what appears to be damage from hammering in one place.

[VforVandetta 42]

Yup, ya got me, I'll come clean. I got a bit frustrated and tried to tap it with a regular steel hammer a couple times, to see if I could get it to move. When it got a bit shroomy I stopped and went with the small brass hammer, which didn't cause any further shrooming. Like I said had i had another set of hands I might have had them hold it against a wood block on the ground with the thread protected on, and then dropped a U shaped wood block over the gas block and tried to hammer on that with a steel hammer. But, the gas block is fine, the puc still slides in and out and the small lip I created can easily be touched up and made whole again. Not a big deal IMO and I really think brass on steel is safe when I was hammering there were bits of brass flying chipping off my cheap-o little brass hammer.

 

Some of the "average joe" gun smithing challenges I suppose, same as drifting rear sights on a pistol you're supposed to be able to move those with a brass punch but even properly secured in a good vice I've usually had to resort to a steel punch to get those moved, I'll trade a couple dings here and there to get the job done as long as it doesn't get trashed that's why I'm not a pro quite yet

Edited August 4, 2016 by VforVandetta

[JoeAK 337]

Some of the "average joe" gun smithing challenges I suppose, same as drifting rear sights on a pistol you're supposed to be able to move those with a brass punch but even properly secured in a good vice I've usually had to resort to a steel punch to get those moved, I'll trade a couple dings here and there to get the job done as long as it doesn't get trashed that's why I'm not a pro quite yet

 

I've got a little tip for that.

 

I use a 1/4" steel rod with a .25ACP casing stuck over the end, you get a nice solid rod, plus a little bit of brass protection. I've done this with a few glocks so far.

[gunfun 3,931]

I keep a block of 1" thick aluminum for that. It's kinda wedge shaped so I can use the narrow end or a wide edge. For the gas blocks, I go for as much overlap as possible and the biggest hammer that I can handle easily 1 handed.  I tie or clamp the gun upright, with the muzzle device on something soft like wood, on a concrete floor. They tend to move without much trouble this way.

[evlblkwpnz 3,418]

A dense hardwood or Delrin work great. Brass will deform steel after repeated striking. I do most direct striking with a rubber dead blow hammer.

 

V, skip the drilling and go directly to the short punch. It is not necessary and I could see some people getting carried away and creating a nightmare of it.

 

Most V12 gas blocks will come off fairly easily, but I have seen one that took heat and a press to get it moving.

[VforVandetta 42]

I keep a block of 1" thick aluminum for that. It's kinda wedge shaped so I can use the narrow end or a wide edge. For the gas blocks, I go for as much overlap as possible and the biggest hammer that I can handle easily 1 handed.  I tie or clamp the gun upright, with the muzzle device on something soft like wood, on a concrete floor. They tend to move without much trouble this way.

 

I should have done that. Wish I would have had a helper or a taller table to secure it too. Short table+2 hands = no way to hold a striking medium, So, after the slight shroomage, I just followed another friends advice and struck with the brass hammer.

 

A dense hardwood or Delrin work great. Brass will deform steel after repeated striking. I do most direct striking with a rubber dead blow hammer.

 

V, skip the drilling and go directly to the short punch. It is not necessary and I could see some people getting carried away and creating a nightmare of it.

 

Most V12 gas blocks will come off fairly easily, but I have seen one that took heat and a press to get it moving.

Gotcha, Yea I was goin at it with the plastic hobby hammer for a while, didn't think to try the dead blow. I had no problem turning the block all the way around, but it just wouldn't budge down the barrel, it was bouncing to much. What makes it even more a pain as I'm sure yo know is the lower handgaurd retainer in the way, which even when secured by fuzzy straws, still came loose a few times when i caught it with the edge of my hammer. The Kroil did help to get it moving. I even tried the plastic hammer again after the brass got it moving, and it still wouldn't work, so I went back to the brass. 

 

I'll have to be even more painstaking from now on and make some sort of vertical strap up device in my shop. 

 

I'm still learning and I appreciate the advice.

 

The pre-drilling I guess is a hold-over from my very early days when I couldn't really beat on things too hard since I had downstairs neighbors. I've gotten really good at center punching those pins and drilling the little divot, and it works really well for me. Although now that I have learned how to secure this thing with straps and wood it does make a huge difference. Over a couple years I have bought some pretty decent punches, and my stubby punches always get the job done in the end. The one thing that gets me on these guns is that a lot of the pins just look like they have no god damn taper on either end. They just sit completely flush on both ends, the guide rod holder pin as well as the magazine release pin come to mind. That's when I really feel the need to pre-drill a bit, but yes I agree that could get messy for someone, then again I made a couple pins messy before I figured out the pre drill method because a couple hits off off the mark and you are basically in mushroom city, even with starter punches.

 

Anyway, Thanks Evl and GF I appreciate the feedback.  

[evlblkwpnz 3,418]

My bench is my greatest asset for stuff like this. I don't know how much it weighs, but it has to be around 600 lbs or more (steel I-beam frame with steel top). My  vise is directly over a vertical I-beam. It does not budge. When I smack something in the vise, it gets the full blow. A heavy bench with a well placed vise makes all of the difference in the world when beating and torquing things. It looks like you have the start to what could be an awesome work area, but the bench is holding you back. Placement of the vise is very important. You can do the gas block removal in the vise if you have pads that will allow it to work. With some  hardwood, etc that is at least 1' long, you can drive the gas block off without the HG retainer being and issue.

[YOT 3,743]

My bench is my greatest asset for stuff like this. I don't know how much it weighs, but it has to be around 600 lbs or more (steel I-beam frame with steel top). My  vise is directly over a vertical I-beam. It does not budge. When I smack something in the vise, it gets the full blow. A heavy bench with a well placed vise makes all of the difference in the world when beating and torquing things. It looks like you have the start to what could be an awesome work area, but the bench is holding you back. Placement of the vise is very important. You can do the gas block removal in the vise if you have pads that will allow it to work. With some  hardwood, etc that is at least 1' long, you can drive the gas block off without the HG retainer being and issue.

My bench is also about 600 lbs. It's top is solid maple 3" x 5' x 7' on a frame of solid oak 4"x4" legs and rails. It has two 12" in-line vises on one side. It takes a lot of space, but I can't imagine being without it.

[svibeardly 1]

Great video as I have to remove it. After inspection... I only have 2 holes drilled in the barrel going into my gasblock not good :]

[evlblkwpnz 3,418]

Great video as I have to remove it. After inspection... I only have 2 holes drilled in the barrel going into my gasblock not good :]

How long was your barrel as it came from the factory?

[HB of CJ 1,263]

Might be a great video, but I stopped watching after 1.5 minutes.  Talking head.  We locked down the barrel and used a tightly fitting BIG slide hammer.  Worked great.