yooper

+1

thanks for sharing the experience, thats a great looking gun. im glad to hear someone whos used the mako stock. i believe that having a muzzlebrake also helps with the bolt cycling, because the brake pulls the gun forward, preventing the stock from compressing as far as it would, so more of the energy makes it to the bolt. if somebody wanted to go really nuts, they could put the enidine shot shock and a recoil pad onto a similar setup to yours, with the mako stock and muzzlebrake, and i can only imagine how light the recoil would be, but i would hate to know how large the gas ports would be, a

hot damn thats sweet! thanks for the vid.

wow, i never would have thought of a grenade launcher pad.

ok, thank you for the edit and the info, i wont repeat the mistake. i also have edited the post again to include polishing the internals. and i have some questions too; can you lengthen the forcing cone? and would the chrome lining prevent the drilling of ports in the top of the barrel? i personally am interested in possibly lengthening my forcing cone. as far as some options causing cycling problems, i figured drilling out the gas ports would compensate, so i listed the options anyway.

i just thought that i didnt see a whole lot out there on recoil reduction options, so i thought id make a guide of some sort to try to help people looking for options. mabye other people would be willing to contribute their knowledge, and we can expand this into a useful list of information. i dont want this to turn into a debate over people being sissies or things like "its not a bb gun", or criticism of people looking for ways to reduce recoil. i want it to stay as a list of options and peoples opinions on them. ill try to start it off with what i know, please add to it. BCG to frame buf

i wouldnt mess with the puck, you dont want FTE's. i researched the auto plug too, and i heard that it tended to overgas some peoples guns badly. take it for what its worth, i dont know the conditions it was used in or if it was properly tuned, but im assuming it was properly done. i think the brakes are pretty close but the monster brake is like a shark brake on steroids. i dont think it has a smaller ID, but if you want to be sure start a topic on it. i think it might be bigger because i read in a post that the shark brake occasionally had wad catches and the monster brake didnt. the com

to rightwingnut: the most effective muzzlebrake i know of is this: tromix monster

ok, thanks for the info. i was just wondering if there was a actual non cosmetic advantage to it.

how about this then? buffer

theres a few options i know of. they are: enidine shot shock limbsaver pad mercury tube muzzlebrake - this is the most effective one i know of. recoil reducing stock you can even get a muzzlebrake with the recoil reducing stock attached to the enidine, with a recoil pad on that. hope this helps!

can anyone tell me what the advantages of bead blasting the bolt and carrrier are?

thanks for the reply. if the 2 3/4" are like that, the 3" will obviously be worse. owell. ill live. thanks for the information, this obviously isnt the most active thread in the world lol.

how hard do these things kick? im thinking about buying a box of 5 3" 1-3/8 oz. ive just heard that they kick really hard. is this true?

i had a thought. even if the finish can take 1600 degrees, it doesn't matter when the material under it cant. so i have to ask: is the purpose of the high heat rated finish to simply make the piston perform better and be bothered less under lower heats? to keep it slicker?