ZigMund

I am looking for a low profile, quick release rail for my s-.308 so I can attach my EOtech to it. I've seen a few online, but they were all about 55-65 bucks with shipping. I would prefer one that is quick release. I wondered if anyone has seen them for a better price anywhere online. help me out with a link if ya can.

Correct. The distance is 25m for the M885 5.56 round (gi ball ammo) which I think is 55gr bullet weight. I am trying to research the same thing myself but I think that this page may be as close as we can find out. The first table shows a 600yd zero (military) and the second smaller table shows a 100yd zero (law enforcement). It shows the corresponding bullet drops at various ranges. Interestingly enough the author did not say what weapon he used for the evaluation. Perhaps it's in another page on the website that I haven't seen. http://www.snipercentral.com/308.htm Also keep i

Yeah that I can do, but what I was looking for was the range that it was zero when set for X yards. As with all rifles, the bullet leaves the barrel below the sight line, intersects it, reaches max ordinance, then descends and crosses the sight line again. On an M-4 that distance is 25m. I just wondered if anyone knew that range.

with most military weapons that I have used (m-4, m-16, m-14, m249, and m240b) there is a set zero range, where the point of impact is the same as the set range, like 10m zero for the m240b. Does anyone know what the zero distance is with the .308 siaga? I was checking out my Mosin 91/30 recently, and shot it at 25m to see about grouping. I got great groups, but they were all about 4" high using Norma 180gr. also, my manual on my saiga had accuracy written down in the book as being less than or equal to 100mm @ 100 yds. I guess I'd like to try and check the zero at a closer range,

I was talking about using a pistol grip like the ACE grip, and finding a butstock that attaches... I hate folders. Something about them makes me shudder. I want either a standard style stock, or a t-6. I didn't know if anyone made one or a set that did this. The only set's I've seen are the folder sets.

I guess this would make you have to play the 922r game right? man I hate that game.

My modification question is: Is there any way to attacha pistol grip and either a t-6, or full length butt stock without moving the trigger group? I'd love to have the ace saw grip, with a t-6 butt stock, but a full lenght plastic would be fine.

Last night when I got home from work, I stripped the weapon, and looked for brass shavings and markings on the bolt/bolt carrier to see if I could isolated the problem area. It was a no brainer. I looked at the bolt, and the locking lug that is facing straight down when the bolt is in it's forward most position, was the culpret. It had a small flange or ridge along it's edge, and the corners were very sharp. I got a fine metal file, and with almost no pressure at all, took the ridge off, and hit the corner a little. Very little metal was removed. So little in fact, that if you didn't

No, I haven't started doing reloads for my .308 yet. I made the spreadsheet to calculate savings vs. buying bulk ammo from distributors/online sales. I found that it was well worth it. Also, I plan to tinker with loads and such. I will definately submit my results when I have them.

as for reloading, I made a spreadsheet to compare price savings, and the likes with different powders, primers, and bullets. I did not take the cost of anything else into account. Primer prices are so close that it's a personal choice on which to use. Powder was slightly different, but still not enough to change the cost significantly. The bullets are where you take the hit on reloading. here's a little piece of my sheet....

yep, I was actually wondering if it was an issue related to how new the weapon was, and that this peice would wear down with time. the problem is.... I want to save my brass for reloading purposes.I'm going to inspect the bolt, and find what is hitting the cases, then make a decision after inspection.

I have gone back through this forum 15 pages but didn't find anyone else with the same problem. I bought a new 21.5" .308 from a fun show, and the other night I did a simulated mag change with a round in the mag. The problem I had was that when I tried to cycle the action to chamer the round, the bolt, or bolt carrier was digging into the case. This caused me to have to put severe amounts of pressure on the charging handle to cycle the bolt, and left the case scarred, and scraped where the offending part drug itself up along the case. Also I tested a theory out. It seems that this o