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Fun with aluminum


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HEAT SHIELD - I was just reading an article in Shotgun News about a 'state-of-the-art' 5.56 AK, which mentioned that the rifle had an "industry-first" metal heat shield inside the lower handguard. I thought, 'Heck - I can do that!' I pulled out a beat-to-heck G3 'skinny' handguard I had in the parts bin, ground the rivets off that held the heat shield in place (they wouldn't drill out, because they rotated), and popped the heat shield out. (Heck, I figured if it will work for 7.62 NATO, it will work for 5.56 NATO, too. ;>) I noticed it was made out of aluminum (good deal - it forms & cuts easier than steel). It wasn't quite the right shape, so (1) I forced a piece of 1" plastic pipe into it, (2) rounded the front corners a bit (I used a penny to draw the rounded front corners, and 'filed to fit' ;>), and (3) squashed it a bit in the vice to get more of a flattened 'U' shape. VOILA! - I had a 5.56 Saiga handguard heat shield. Make the sides the right height (by bending the aluminum) to fit into the wide part in the lower half of the Saiga handguard, and the bottom kind of flat so it will ride up on top of the ridge in the bottom of the hand guard (which provides some air space between the heat shield and the handguard). You can slide it in from the rear. After about a hundred rounds at the range yesterday, it hadn't moved (& the lower part of the handguard, where the heat shield was wedged, was noticeably cooler than the upper part). Izhmash could do this for about $0.17 at the factory (but maybe it wouldn't look "sporting," so do whatever you have to do, Gentlemen, to keep the Saigas coming in! ;>). If you don't have a sacrificial G3 handguard in your parts bin, the aluminum heat shield measured approximately 6 5/8" long, 2 1/16" wide, and 0.025" thick. Obviously you can make other dimesions work, too - just change the curvature of the heat shield.

 

GALIL ORLITE MAGAZINE FLOOR PLATES - I was just looking at my Galil Orlite mags, and noticed that the floor plates were really pretty simple. Since nobody sells US-made 'compliant' floor plates, I decided to make my own. I used aluminum with a 'PI' (table top with 2 legs) cross-section because (and this is critical): (1) it's very strong, (2) the 'legs' keep the the floor plate 'button' from being depressed accidentally, (3) the legs provide longitudinal strength, and (4) I had it laying around the shop (you could actually use simple aluminum or steel bar stock of the right thickness, or plastic, I suppose, if you wanted). I made four floor plates after work today using hand tools (hack saw, file, drill, emery cloth), and painted them to match the receiver (I've read about anodizing, but have not tried it yet). The floor plates fit great, and count as an extra US-made "compliance" part (something I recommend for your 'range mags,' if nothing else, so you'll have some insurance where you might need it). If you decide you want the original Orlite floor plates back on your mags, all it takes is a BIC pen and about 10 seconds of your time.

 

FYI, & FWIW...

 

;>)

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do you have any pics?

 

Yes I have pics, but the forum software doesn't seem interested in letting me post them. Everytime I try, the computer goes into some kind of 'death-from-boredom' loop that goes nowhere.

 

No big deal. The heat shield is just a thin rectangle of aluminum, with two corners along one narrow end rounded off (to fit the rounded front corners of the indentation in my Saiga hanguard). You might be able to make one out of a soda can (I'm sure thicker aluminum would be better), although I don't think I would insult my Saiga that way (do they sell Russian vodka in a can? Maybe that would be appropriate... ;>). Just keep adjusting the shape until it slides into place with a little bit of force, and kind of 'locks' in there (the reformed German G3 heat shield I'm using actually 'clicks' when I get it pushed into position).

 

The floorplates are just some surplus aluminum sliding-cabinet-door track I had in the shop: cut your material (whatever it is) using the Orlite floorplate as a pattern, and slide it into place. Bingo! If you have decent wood working tools, you might even be able to make the floorplates out of hardwood. If not, I suggest aluminum strap, about 7/8" wide, "file to fit," drill the hole for the little locking button, and "paint to match."

 

Sorry I can't get the photos to load - might be my ISP for all I know...

 

;>)

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Sorry, I cut the file size of the photos by 75%, and they still won't load here. Maybe I don't know what I'm doing (if so, it's not the first time... ;>). If anyone wants photos of the heat shield or floorplates (jpg format), just send me your e-mail address by pm, and I'll e-mail them to you. I think (hope) I can get them out that way.

 

(The more I look at the floorplates, the more happy I am. I just love taking some surplus material or part and making it work for something completely unrelated. Especially if it's simple... ;>)

 

(Did I mention that I have a 'proto-proto-type' Mini-14 mag adapter, made out of a cut/bent/filed 40 cent shelf bracket? The mag actually locks up in the Saiga mag well - just barely - and the mag feeds by hand, but I think it needs a little something more to center it at the rear, and reinforce the Mini-14 mag catch notch. 'Hello, Mr. One Inch Square Steel Tube! Meet Mr. Angle Grinder!' God willing, that is, & I get some more free time. Of course, it's probably a waste of time, since reliable Mini-14 mags are about as common as hen's teeth... ;>)

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I'm the same way, I've been debating about buying the bullet guide for my 223, but I really want to make one myself (I'm just that kinda person)

 

as long as you enjoy what you are doing, thats what matters

 

I know what you mean - I've got the steel bar stock to make one of vjor's bullet gudes sitting out in the shop right now. On the other hand, I really appreciate the folks that go out of their way to provide WECSOG products, so I'm going to purchase one of dinzag's 'vjor-and-angrydutchman-inspired' bullet guides as soon as he has them available. That's what got me into the WECSOG community in the first place - cookbook directions, online assistance, and available compliance (& other) parts.

 

(None of which keeps me from wandering around the warehouse at work, looking for parts to 'modify'... ;>)

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Another option - you can make floorplates for the Galil Orlites or Galil steel (at least the 12-rd) mags, by modifying FAL floorplates. For the Orlites, just trace the outline you want on the FAL floorplate, and cut it out with tin snips. Drill a hole for the retaining "button," and you're there - takes just a couple of minutes (more for me, because I repainted & baked mine ;>).

 

For steel Galil mags (again, I was using the 12-rd mags), it's the same thing - trace the outline, chop it out, and drill a hole for the square "button." Takes a bit longer, because you have to cut a more complex curve (I used a Radio Shack 'nibbler' as well as tin snips), and you have to cut & bend a little flap at the front of the floorplate. (I had some left over FAL 'compliance part' floorplates, so mine are actually marked "USA"... ;>)

 

Another option (if you have the parts) is to use USGI 20-rd M-16 mag floorplates for your steel Galil mags. Compare the two floorplates: they're almost identical (which makes sense, because the Israelis are using both Galils & M-16s, and probably make parts for both types of 5.56 magazines).

 

FYI, & FWIW...

Edited by Bad Bob
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