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Gas Regulator Adjustment Positions “1” and “2”

#1 User is online   Makc 

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  Posted 15 September 2003 - 09:24 PM

What do those mysterious positions 1 and 2 mean?

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As you can see on the picture, there is a "STOP BUTTON" or "PIN" (or whatever else you would like to call it…) that you need to press "IN" (with a screw driver for example…) to turn the gas regulator.

Posted Image

You might want to take the gas regulator out completely if you want to see how the system works – do not worry – you will not break anything!!! (it is only a problem if you loose the gas regulator itself!!! :lolol: )

You will see that position 2 will have the gas channel fully opened and in position 1 the channel will be "almost" closed... The amount of gas released in position 2 will be a lot higher than in position 1. :smoke:

You may try setting the gas regulator in position 1 and fire some light loads – if it cycles normally without jamming – you can leave it on 1 forever!

There is no way to tell weather it will cycle right or not – it depends on the gun itself, or actually on the diameter of the holes that IZHMASH has drilled in the barrel… Well, just try it!!! (As you can see, my S-12 on the right is always set to 1 as it cycles perfectly with both types of loads in this position… The one on the left sometimes jams the shell on the way out if I shoot bird-shot in position 1 so I change it depending on the type of ammo I use...)

Warning!!!

What you definitely DO NOT WANT TO DO is set it to position 2 and fire magnum loads (or slugs)!!!

Surly, you can fire slugs in position 2!!! No problem at all, just a little more recoil it seems!!!

The shells will definitely eject properly! After you fire about 20-50 rounds like that (even "low recoil" slugs) try to disassemble your gun – you will get the top cover off ok, but you will not be able to take the spring out because while you fired those rounds the slide hammered the hell out of the rear trunnion block! It will look like someone literally took the hammer to it!!! :cryss:

If there is a need for you to fire slugs in position 2 (like in 3-gun-match) I suggest you use the recoil buffer!!!

I STONGLY suggest using the buffer in any case!!! It prolongs the life of your gun!!! :super:
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#2 User is offline   teamcnabb05 

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 10:57 PM

thanks for the info!! a perfect explanation!

thanks again!!
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#3 User is offline   CB3 

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Posted 30 June 2009 - 01:09 PM

Buffers can cause short stroking. Be sure to test with all ammo for reliable feeding.

The new adjustable gas regulators, though more expensive, provide a better solution for reliable feeding and gas control.

CB3

This post has been edited by CB3: 30 June 2009 - 01:13 PM

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#4 User is offline   BobAsh 

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Posted 30 June 2009 - 03:33 PM

View PostCB3, on Jun 30 2009, 01:09 PM, said:

Buffers can cause short stroking. Be sure to test with all ammo for reliable feeding.

The new adjustable gas regulators, though more expensive, provide a better solution for reliable feeding and gas control.

CB3


Although I hate to argue with the boss, I also recommend against the buffer in an S-12.
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Posted 30 June 2009 - 07:48 PM

Note that the Boss' post dates from 2003. The Saiga community has come to learn that buffers in shotguns aren't so hot, but I think Max has a point: if you're in a match shooting a mix of low and high brass and don't have time to turn your gas knob, a buffer could reduce the damage.
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#6 User is online   Makc 

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  Posted 08 July 2009 - 02:41 PM

Quote

Buffers can cause short stroking. Be sure to test with all ammo for reliable feeding...

I agree with that, replacing the word can with could, but...

Quote

if you're in a match shooting a mix of low and high brass and don't have time to turn your gas knob, a buffer could reduce the damage.

I agree with this as well, but in my opinion, the word COULD should be replaced with WILL...

There is no question that you will have substantial damage to the weapon if you shoot slugs with gas regulator set to position 2. It will not be after 1 or 2 rounds, but if you shoot a box or two - you will see it.

Back in 2003, being a newbie, I have done that and then had to use the "dremil" on the rear trunnion to get the spring out... This is not a hypothetical theory!

I had the buffer in my gun ever since and never had any problems...


I do respect all the guys wth different views on this subject, however, they will not make me remove the buffers from my guns!
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Posted 08 July 2009 - 07:35 PM

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#8 User is offline   jama555us 

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 07:27 PM

View PostMakc, on Sep 15 2003, 09:24 PM, said:

What do those mysterious positions 1 and 2 mean?

Posted Image

As you can see on the picture, there is a "STOP BUTTON" or "PIN" (or whatever else you would like to call it…) that you need to press "IN" (with a screw driver for example…) to turn the gas regulator.

Posted Image

You might want to take the gas regulator out completely if you want to see how the system works – do not worry – you will not break anything!!! (it is only a problem if you loose the gas regulator itself!!! :lolol: )

You will see that position 2 will have the gas channel fully opened and in position 1 the channel will be "almost" closed... The amount of gas released in position 2 will be a lot higher than in position 1. :smoke:

You may try setting the gas regulator in position 1 and fire some light loads – if it cycles normally without jamming – you can leave it on 1 forever!

There is no way to tell weather it will cycle right or not – it depends on the gun itself, or actually on the diameter of the holes that IZHMASH has drilled in the barrel… Well, just try it!!! (As you can see, my S-12 on the right is always set to 1 as it cycles perfectly with both types of loads in this position… The one on the left sometimes jams the shell on the way out if I shoot bird-shot in position 1 so I change it depending on the type of ammo I use...)

Warning!!!

What you definitely DO NOT WANT TO DO is set it to position 2 and fire magnum loads (or slugs)!!!

Surly, you can fire slugs in position 2!!! No problem at all, just a little more recoil it seems!!!

The shells will definitely eject properly! After you fire about 20-50 rounds like that (even "low recoil" slugs) try to disassemble your gun – you will get the top cover off ok, but you will not be able to take the spring out because while you fired those rounds the slide hammered the hell out of the rear trunnion block! It will look like someone literally took the hammer to it!!! :cryss:

If there is a need for you to fire slugs in position 2 (like in 3-gun-match) I suggest you use the recoil buffer!!!

I STONGLY suggest using the buffer in any case!!! It prolongs the life of your gun!!! :super:

First, thanks for a great explanation. Let me see if I understand: 1=light load, because the gas port is mostly closed, minimal gas will escape, =minimal recoil. 2=heavy load, because the gas port is mostly open, maximal gas will escape, =heavy recoil.

Now, the question is this: I have remington slugs, 12 gauge, 2.75", 1 oz, rifled, and in 1560 velocity, FPS. What setting should I use, 1 or 2?

Thanks.

John Martin.
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#9 User is offline   BruisedShoulder 

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 07:58 AM

View Postjama555us, on Aug 5 2009, 08:30 PM, said:

First, thanks for a great explanation. Let me see if I understand: 1=light load, because the gas port is mostly closed, minimal gas will escape, =minimal recoil. 2=heavy load, because the gas port is mostly open, maximal gas will escape, =heavy recoil.

Now, the question is this: I have remington slugs, 12 gauge, 2.75", 1 oz, rifled, and in 1560 velocity, FPS. What setting should I use, 1 or 2?

Thanks.

John Martin.


Actually I believe that is backwards but correct me if I am wrong. :blues:
1 is for Magnum loads because the port is mostly closed and will help prevent the bolt from getting slammed back.
2 is for Light Loads as the port is more open. Since the light loads will required more gas to cycle the bolt.
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#10 User is offline   BobAsh 

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 08:14 AM

View PostBruisedShoulder, on Aug 12 2009, 07:58 AM, said:

Actually I believe that is backwards but correct me if I am wrong. :blues:
1 is for Magnum loads because the port is mostly closed and will help prevent the bolt from getting slammed back.
2 is for Light Loads as the port is more open. Since the light loads will required more gas to cycle the bolt.


This is correct. SETTING TWO IS TWICE THE GAS.
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#11 User is offline   Raoul_Duke 

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 04:40 PM

To over-simplify it, whether it's the factory plug or Gunfixer's plug, I remember it like this:

The smaller the number, the smaller amount of gas you are letting through.
The bigger the number, the bigger amount of gas you are letting through.
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#12 User is offline   BobAsh 

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Posted 14 August 2009 - 06:36 AM

Just try it on setting 1. If they don't eject, turn to setting 2.
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#13 User is offline   FIGJAM 

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Posted 26 August 2009 - 01:10 PM

And if it doesn't eject on target lows on 2 can you wind it out a screw or two and let more gas in? Also why is there something cluncking around in my gas tube? Is that normal?

THX
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#14 User is offline   tritium 

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Posted 26 August 2009 - 03:34 PM

View PostFIGJAM, on Aug 26 2009, 01:10 PM, said:

And if it doesn't eject on target lows on 2 can you wind it out a screw or two and let more gas in? Also why is there something cluncking around in my gas tube? Is that normal?

THX

If no ejection on 2, go to 1, a half rotation in whatever direction to get there so you're not unscrewing in or out any further than necessary. That clunking in the gas tube is the gas piston (puck) sliding as it should.
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Posted 26 December 2009 - 08:28 PM

Just a little advice to some of you...

If you have a "magnum" load, don't assume that it will automatically cycle the action without trying it. In my S-410, shooting the brown bear #4 buck 3"ers it won't cycle in the #1 gas position. I'm glad I tested it out as I got those for my pops as a HD round and would have felt bad if he missed the first shot and it didn't cycle... :ded:

The ammo is great, makes cantelopes explode... It could be the ammo, or it could be drunk Russians (I'm Irish, so :P) drilling the holes out wrong, who knows....

But anyways, what I'm trying to say is field test your ammo and make sure it cycles... its the only real way to know.

Edit: just some grammar...

PS: Remington #6 birdshot cycles fine on #1, like I said, field test your shit or you may be losing your shit...

This post has been edited by ThirtyAughtSix: 26 December 2009 - 08:32 PM

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#16 User is offline   peppper12 

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 03:22 PM

What do you fine as the best ammo for the IZ 109 shotgun? I am having a problem with the shells jamming in the head bolt.

Thanks
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#17 User is offline   cfish 

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Posted 28 March 2010 - 12:10 AM

Newbie here. Just got my 12 and am headed to the range tomorrow/today. I will be shooting buck shot2 3/4 rem 00 and 7 1/2 federal. My question is, is the buckshot considered a magnum load. It is express rem buckshot. I understand the 1-2 settings and will start on no.1 setting. My gas setting is on 2 out of the box. Should I turn it clock wise or counter clock wise based on looking straight at it.
Thanks
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#18 User is offline   tritium 

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Posted 28 March 2010 - 09:36 AM

View Postcfish, on 28 March 2010 - 12:10 AM, said:

Newbie here. Just got my 12 and am headed to the range tomorrow/today. I will be shooting buck shot2 3/4 rem 00 and 7 1/2 federal. My question is, is the buckshot considered a magnum load. It is express rem buckshot. I understand the 1-2 settings and will start on no.1 setting. My gas setting is on 2 out of the box. Should I turn it clock wise or counter clock wise based on looking straight at it.
Thanks

Read post #17 above carefully.
A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity.
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The indiscriminate use of vulgar language is the linguistic crutch of the inarticulate motherf**ker.
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