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Warthog range test


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I feel like a ass due to the fact that i can't find the original thread that started this mess. If anyone knows what i'm talking about and can find the original thread please post a link, i want to give those who gave me the idea credit...

 

Anyway theres been some talk about if breaks work when on the end of the barrel. I descided to do a test. Right now all i have are a modified polychoke(that due to modification wouldn't tell you anything about yours) and a Chaos Warthog.

 

So i got together 2 friends 40 3" steel turky loads, 100 3" steel goose loads some remington sluggers and some 3" 00 buck and... well... check it out :zorro:

 

Edit to add: The thread that gave me the idea to do this.

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=40333&hl

Edited by Nailbomb
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First up i slammed the warthog nose first into a steel door and a wooden door. Check for durability and take some anger out on inanimate objects.

MORE! More pics please. It looks like you had wicked fun!

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Its not exacly scientific, but we had a great time. Toward the end i seemed to be the only one with any enthusiasm for firing off 3" magnums, but definitly fun. Its hard to make anything out of the videos, but i definitly prefered firing it with the warthog as opposed to without. I felt that my follow up shots came quicker, and my shoulder seemed to bother me less.

 

Your turn, Get out and shoot!

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It's interesting in the video how the smoke clouds out of the barrel are more towards the bottom front with that warthog,

 

without it, it's all over , but mainly straight forward,... I'll bet those back facing vents on the top, you can't see the powder smoke coming out because it's so fast,... may have something to do with why you can see smoke consistantly at the bottom when installed.

 

 

Those are some cool pics!

 

Looks like a ton of fun!

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When I fire off a bunch of quick shots at the range, I always have to stop shooting for second while the smoke clears. Looks like this might help that out.

 

It's interesting in the video how the smoke clouds out of the barrel are more towards the bottom front with that warthog,

 

without it, it's all over , but mainly straight forward,... I'll bet those back facing vents on the top, you can't see the powder smoke coming out because it's so fast,... may have something to do with why you can see smoke consistantly at the bottom when installed.

 

 

Those are some cool pics!

 

Looks like a ton of fun!

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I feel like a ass due to the fact that i can't find the original thread that started this mess. If anyone knows what i'm talking about and can find the original thread please post a link, i want to give those who gave me the idea credit...

 

Anyway theres been some talk about if breaks work when on the end of the barrel. I descided to do a test. Right now all i have are a modified polychoke(that due to modification wouldn't tell you anything about yours) and a Chaos Warthog.

 

So i got together 2 friends 40 3" steel turky loads, 100 3" steel goose loads some remington sluggers and some 3" 00 buck and... well... check it out :zorro:

 

Just a thought, when you bash the warthog into an object like the door, arn't you putting a whole lot of stress on the barrel and the receiver paticularly where the barrel attaches to the receiver?

I am not a saiga expert, in fact i'm a noob, but I was just wondering if that should be done to an expensive item like the saiga.

 

Very very fun pics and story though.

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Well since you recorded video from the side with different high-power loads both with and without the warthog, I think it's scientific enough. I didn't see a whole lot of difference in muzzle rise between the shots with the warthog and the shots without.. so although this "brake" might help some, it certainly doesn't seem to make much of a difference.

 

I bet you'd get very similar results from shooting the gun with and without the slotted Polychoke.. course I could be wrong. You should test the Polychoke vs the warthog and see what results.. besides the shot pattern being tighter and more effective with the Polychoke, of course. ;)

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Just a thought, when you bash the warthog into an object like the door, arn't you putting a whole lot of stress on the barrel and the receiver paticularly where the barrel attaches to the receiver?

I am not a saiga expert, in fact i'm a noob, but I was just wondering if that should be done to an expensive item like the saiga.

 

Very very fun pics and story though.

The thought has occured to me that smashing the muzzle of my gun into a metal door repeatedly could be thought of as a bad idea...

 

It also occurs to me that blowing locks off at point blank in a non combative situation isn't the wisest move either.

 

I DO NOT recomend anyone do this. I don't want any liability for anyone else.

 

Looks like a fun time Nailbomb.

 

Are you talking about Saiganoobie's thread about brakes.

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showto...mp;#entry365316

No thats not the one... The thread i'm talking about I think the only thing i posted was "i now know what i must do" other people came up with the idea of the grid to measure recoil and whatnot...

Edited by Nailbomb
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Just a thought, when you bash the warthog into an object like the door, arn't you putting a whole lot of stress on the barrel and the receiver paticularly where the barrel attaches to the receiver?

I am not a saiga expert, in fact i'm a noob, but I was just wondering if that should be done to an expensive item like the saiga.

 

Very very fun pics and story though.

The thought has occured to me that smashing the muzzle of my gun into a metal door repeatedly could be thought of as a bad idea...

 

It also occurs to me that blowing locks off at point blank in a non combative situation isn't the wisest move either.

 

I DO NOT recomend anyone do this. I don't want any liability for anyone else.

 

Too late, man. I shot my leg off by just doing what you described. Clearly, you are liable. Expect to hear from my attorneys on Monday. :D

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Too late, man. I shot my leg off by just doing what you described. Clearly, you are liable. Expect to hear from my attorneys on Monday. :D

I have heard over 1/2 the worlds population of lawyers live in america, we must be doing something right!

 

Also you asked about my tri-rail setup, i covered that in my previous test run along with a bunch of other products.

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showto...durability+test

 

Oh and after looking at that again, i should point out that i resolved the issue of the trigger not reseting by just tweaking the reduced pressure spring out to the sides of the reciever some and bending them down for some more pressure. I really enjoy my trigger feel now, and I'm really looking foward to seeing what my trigger feel is like after i convert my x39 with another reduced pressure spring and a red star arms FCG.(thanks for the advice corbin)

Edited by Nailbomb
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Yeah, I guess you briefly mentioned it. Has it continued to hold up pretty well? I'm just looking for a reliable, lighter, and cheaper alternative to aluminum tri-rails, especially since I have this 20% off coupon for Saigastock.com that'll expire at the end of the month and they sell the SGM handguard, (and nothing else I want), but no aluminum railed guards.

Edited by post-apocalyptic
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Yeah, I guess you briefly mentioned it. Has it continued to hold up pretty well? I'm just looking for a reliable, lighter, and cheaper alternative to aluminum tri-rails, especially since I have this 20% off coupon for Saigastock.com that'll expire at the end of the month and they sell the SGM handguard, (and nothing else I want), but no aluminum railed guards.

Durability wise its holding up fine. You definitly need to use some blue locktight on the screw holding it in place though. if you don't it WILL Wiggle loose. The one(two accualy i destroyed the first venting it) i bought from CSS came with a small thing of blue thread locker, i don't have any expirience with saigastock.

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I agree that using those loads and that procedure for blowing locks off at PBR does not look like a good idea at all. Some of you LEOs out there correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the correct way to use a door breaching attachment to jam the prongs into the hinge areas of the door and take them out instead? Seems like that would be a lot safer. I think you are also supposed to be using special shells made for that purpose, which have a dense powder instead of shot loads or slugs.

 

Still looked like a lot of fun though! :super: Great torture test for the Warthog. I'd like to see the Tromix Shark and the KA breaching brakes too...

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I agree that using those loads and that procedure for blowing locks off at PBR does not look like a good idea at all. Some of you LEOs out there correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the correct way to use a door breaching attachment to jam the prongs into the hinge areas of the door and take them out instead? Seems like that would be a lot safer. I think you are also supposed to be using special shells made for that purpose, which have a dense powder instead of shot loads or slugs.

 

Still looked like a lot of fun though! :super: Great torture test for the Warthog. I'd like to see the Tromix Shark and the KA breaching brakes too...

Your right there are special rounds for that purpose(tritium has them as his avatar), i didn't have any so i made do with what i had on hand. I used 3" remington 00 for the locks. Smaller steel shot would be a worse idea IMHO. Sometimes stupid can be fun... In this case it was :lolol:

 

I wouldn't mind doing this with a tromix and a KA break either(minus the doors those just kindof fell into my lap, i don't know if i could just come up with another 6 for 2 more breaks), I'm just working with what i have. If there are any other members with those breaks that wouldn't mind doing a similar test that would be great. Getting a serious knowledge base together like that would be awsome! :super:

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