[JJL0325]

Hey guys, I found the post that Tony Rumore authored showing what to polish; I'm just not sure of the best method to do it. Any tips are much appreciated

[Schmitty]

JJL0325, on Jul 9 2009, 12:35 PM, said:

Hey guys, I found the post that Tony Rumore authored showing what to polish; I'm just not sure of the best method to do it. Any tips are much appreciated

I didn't polish mine too terribly much, but I used Metal Glo. It came out alright, but I am interested in better (and faster) alternatives.

Can you post a link to the post by Tony Rumore please?

[Bridis]

Buy a dremel and it will come with a polishing wheel. Use that.

GL.

[BUFF_dragon]

I woul dalso like to see a link to that post..... as I'm getting ready to tear my conversion apart to measure some parts and paint it up all purty

[bigcec1]

Well how I do mine is with a drem I usualy start with a griding wheel nothing real course and if you do a search you will find some posts with bolt pic,s but I remove a little bit of material off of the bottom. Of the bolt only and once I've gotten a good shape I move to the sand disks on the drem start with the course disks ans get most of the deep grindibg marks out change the disk when its simi smooth. To the fine sand disks and keep changing the disks till its as smooth as glass I think the ones I use are like 400 grit disks and once its sanded it looks like a mirror and you can polish it if u want its not gona get much smoother but it will seal the metal and as for the bolt carrior and top of hammer and carrier rails just use the sanding disks on them till they are smooth as glass and polish to seal it up and oil the friction parts

[Cobra 76 two]

It is very easy to go too far and ruin your bolt. I did that once. Just an FYI...

[Schmitty]

Cobra 76 two, on Jul 9 2009, 01:18 PM, said:

It is very easy to go too far and ruin your bolt. I did that once. Just an FYI...

Are you talking about going too far when sanding? Because the downside of taking forever when using Metal Glo is the upside of it's d#$% near impossible to go too far ('tis a slow process). I didn't even do too many polishings with the stuff, but it came alright and is smooth. There is room for improvement, but it is a big improvement from before.

This post has been edited by Schmitty: 09 July 2009 - 12:50 PM

[bigcec1]

I'm shure cobra Is talking about grinding off bolt material you can remove to much of the bolt material but if you want to be safe just sand the bolt with course paper then move to the finer grit stuff and should come out looking like a mirror I have a pic of mine a few posts down just can't post any pics on my blackberry lol

[Cobra 76 two]

Schmitty, on Jul 9 2009, 01:49 PM, said:

Cobra 76 two, on Jul 9 2009, 01:18 PM, said:

It is very easy to go too far and ruin your bolt. I did that once. Just an FYI...

Are you talking about going too far when sanding? Because the downside of taking forever when using Metal Glo is the upside of it's d#$% near impossible to go too far ('tis a slow process). I didn't even do too many polishings with the stuff, but it came alright and is smooth. There is room for improvement, but it is a big improvement from before.

One of the first ones I did, I found out the hard way that it's too easy to grind or sand your way right through the body of the bolt and into the cavity where the neck of the bolt head fits into it.
Take your bolt apart and look inside, toward the rear of the cavity. That corner down there is not too awful far from the exterior surface of the bolt. In order to achieve the best possible results of this modification, you do need to remove some material, aside from just polishing it smooth. Half the point of doing it is to give the front of the top shell in the mag more room, so that a full mag can be easily inserted on a closed bolt. Another is to give it a better, smoother transition when that shell slides up onto the fat part of the bolt, while the mag spring is compressed. Polishing the surfaces smooth, only makes it slide over that top shell easier on the return stroke, to help improve cycling.
Bottom line is...if you want real results, you do have to take off some metal but only just enough, and in the right places. That's why it's worth it to send it to someone who has done it before, and who knows exactly how much is too much.

[JanusthePhoenix]

Here's a thread from the XDTalk forum all about polishing.
http://www.xdtalk.co...ing-thread.html

I plan on polishing the bolt carrier (among other parts) also when I finally get some extended time to play with my guns. It seems that Brilex Heavy Metal polish is the stuff you need to really get that "mirror" look, and it supposedly also has wax or some other shit in it for corrosion resistance. You can only order the stuff online though.

[52brandon]

i used a dremel to polish the carrier, didnt do the actual bolt

[Schmitty]

I tried the sandpaper trick last night; it works real well. Sanded my bolt and carrier. I took some Metal Glo to both after finishing up with the 2000 grit sandpaper; very shiny, near mirror finish.

[zenmetsu]

I am polishing my bolt and carrier right now. I found a really good combo with the dremel to get out the small imperfections and get the surface really smooth before polishing. The problem is... it is REALLY hard for me to get into the tight crevices on the carrier. Not sure how you people do it... :/

I have one rubberized disk that came with the dremel which is part #425. It is a rubberized emory impregnated disk which is slightly flexible. This alone will get the surface quite shiny, but I use it mainly for getting the surface flat and remove the surface imperfections from the factory. I then use the felt polishing wheels with red and white rouge compound to get the really mirror smooth shine. So far my bolt carrier is looking very nice. I just need to find out how to get in to the tighter spots.

So far I am only going to polish the bolt carrier and a few faces of the bolt (There are three that I believe that come into contact with the tops of the shells). So far it has made a noticeable difference when inserting a full mag on a closed bolt... nothing spectacular, but just enough that I can do it without looking now.

I will try to get some better shots. This is my first time ever trying to polish anything on a firearm, so go easy. Will probably still send my bolt off to someone to do the modification cuts. I am not THAT brave with my dremel...

This post has been edited by zenmetsu: 16 August 2009 - 12:10 AM

[zenmetsu]

damned dust was already starting to cling to the oil..


I am happy enough with it. Now I have to wait for my conversion parts to come in. After that, i need to blast the thing and have it parkerized.

[BronCobraJet]

Now spray that carrier with silicone and use grease on the rails and other contact points, High temp wheel bearing grease or rod and reel grease. Put it on with q-tips. One other thing I was going to try was the spray on dry moly. Haven't got to that yet. It should be good for keeping the debris from sticking.Where I live it is very windy most of the time and a high level of sand in the everywhere. What do our troops use?

[BronCobraJet]

double post

This post has been edited by BronCobraJet: 17 August 2009 - 05:12 AM

[zenmetsu]

BronCobraJet, on Aug 17 2009, 03:07 AM, said:

Now spray that carrier with silicone and use grease on the rails and other contact points, High temp wheel bearing grease or rod and reel grease. Put it on with q-tips. One other thing I was going to try was the spray on dry moly. Haven't got to that yet. It should be good for keeping the debris from sticking.Where I live it is very windy most of the time and a high level of sand in the everywhere. What do our troops use?

Thanks for the tip.

In the past, I have only used a thin coating of gun oil and it has served me well. I am careful though to clean my guns after every single outing and do not put too many rounds through them before i give the action a little TLC. I suppose I should start using a heavier grease for the rails, etc so that I don't burn through my oil and generate extra wear.

Any particular rod/reel grease brand that you recommend? I assume that you are talking about the silicone stuff, right?

[saigatechusa]

I do agree that it takes a working knowledge of the bolt assembly to remove the optimal amount of material for this modification, but...most bolts can be repaired. I've done several.

[zenmetsu]

skiboatsp, on Aug 17 2009, 09:48 AM, said:

I do agree that it takes a working knowledge of the bolt assembly to remove the optimal amount of material for this modification, but...most bolts can be repaired. I've done several.

I am not going to risk it though. I have a really steady hand when it comes to hand-tools, but I would feel better sending it off for Cobra or someone to do the actual mod.

I do not consider mere polishing to be a mod. I polished up 3 faces of the bolt which come in contact with the top round in the mag. This helped a considerable amount, enough so that I will probably not need to have the bolt ground at all.

I left the original finish on the rest of the bolt. Even polishing removes small amounts of material. From my experience with high powered bolt actions, I know enough to stay away from recoil lugs and engaging surfaces which may jack with headspace... anything which loosens the fit of the bolt when it is locked and a round is chambered is no-bueno.

[zenmetsu]

I posted a video to cover how i polished up parts of my bolt.

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=FbBE5y_L5JA

I used the same method for polishing my bolt carrier. I used the #425 dremel disc to take the paint off of the carrier and to take out the minor scratches left from the manufacturing process. I then used a felt disk loaded with emory to get out the very fine scratches left by the #425 disc. I then proceeded to use red rouge on the felt disk to produce a mirror like shine.

Despite my room being dark, you can actually see the polished surfaces of my bolt through the bottom of the assembled firearm towards the end of my video. I love the way the polished faces contrast with the factory bolt finish.

Any feedback is welcome.

[tommygunner]

For lube, my S-12 loves this stuff.http://www.militec.com/
works good on all my other semi auto too. I live in the desert and the militec is great. My weapons just dont get dirty or dusty. It also helps a lot with fouling, powder, dirt ect, dirt just doesn't stick to it.

Weapon shield is also good stuff. http://www.steelshie...pon-shield.html
it is a better cleaner than militec1 and has better corrosion protection if you live in a humid environment or by the ocean.

[MCASSgt New River]

tommygunner, on Aug 20 2009, 12:55 PM, said:

http://www.militec.com/
It also helps a lot with fouling, powder, dirt ect, dirt just doesn't stick to it.

BronCobraJet, on Aug 17 2009, 05:07 AM, said:

What do our troops use?

+1 tommygunner

I'm currently in Iraq and the phuking dust storms here cover EVERYTHING in a babypowder fine layer. CLP here is a BIG TIME no, no. I requested via email if Militech could send me out a sample and the owner personally responded with a letter thanking me for my interest and only requested that I send back a review after using his product. About a week later I received a padded envelope with 12-15 small bottles of this dry lube and several pages of info.

After trying CLP and then using Militech I can say that Militech is 1000x better! Better in terms of being a lubricant, better on cutting down on dust accumulation, better in reducing the time needed for cleaning. I will replace ALL my lubricants with this product when I get back from the sandbox.

[Azrial]

Cobra 76 two, on Jul 9 2009, 01:18 PM, said:

It is very easy to go too far and ruin your bolt. I did that once. Just an FYI...

I will buy all the ruined bolts like this I can get at $30 each! Just PM me!