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Converting a Pressed on Lower Hand Guard Retainer to a Bolt On Unit


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I was going to create a very detailed section for this in my tutorial until I realized that this could be consider a lot of work for the average person.

 

I have a full shop and it took me 4+ hours to convert my Milled Yugo Lower Hand Guard Retainer into a bolt on unit.

 

Over all I think it looks okay but I'm going to get a Danzig Bolt On unit and I'll try to sell this one once I have test fired my rifle on Wednesday.

 

I will try summarize what I did and that may help some people that decide to try it.

 

I Did the following -

 

1 - Used a Dremel and about 6 reinforced cutting wheels to cut out 80% of the top center section. This left me with a "C" shaped opening.

 

2 - Used a bench sander with a 1" wide belt to sand the inside edge of these cut to clean them up and to open the top up to a point that would easily slip onto the smaller front are of the barrel.

 

3 - Used a Dremel to cut the flange that wrapped around the barrel just in front of the face of the section the LHGR sits in. This allowed me to reshape these pieces into a "U"

 

4 - Used a MAPP Gas torch to heat the unit to make it easier to bend the flanges into the "U" shape

 

5 - Silver soldered a section of steel into the milled slot for the lever on the right side of the LHGR. I did this to make that area stronger and to make it level for the screw.

 

6 - Set it in place and then used a small round file to cut a very shallow groove into the top of the rifle to accomodate the hardware I planned to use. It did not require too much work, the groove is les then 1/16" deep.

 

7 - Used the threaded rivet from my Ram Speed Magazine release to secure it. The treaded rivet was a perfect fit and I decided to use it once I was told I could buy a spare set for my Mag release for $2.50 shipped, which is a great deal :)

 

8 - Once I new everything worked I removed it and filled in the pits with JB weld.

 

9 - After it cured I sanded it flush

 

10 - Then I hand filed the slotted areas to clean up the edges

 

11- Then I bead blasted the entire unit.

 

 

I was surprised at how much work this required and if I had known, I would have bought the Danzig unit in the first place. I would not recommend this part of the project to people with limited tools or skills.

 

I still need to do a little clean up work before I sell it.

 

At this point I don't even know what I'll ask but there is no way I will be able to make enough money to cover the original cost of the part and the time and material it took to convert it :(

 

 

 

Post below if you have any questions

 

 

LHGR0.jpg

 

 

LHGR1.jpg

 

 

LHGR2.jpg

 

LHGR3.jpg

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Thanks for the post! I really want to put traditional AK wood on my 7.62, but I also really don't want to pay $80+ for JUST the lower handguard retainer! lol I find it interesting that after the conversion, you think purchasing the Dinzag unit is the way to go. It must really be a beyotch to do!

 

Thanks again for the info!

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Your's looks a lot like mine, except I added the peice on the top right flange

 

You also didn't flatten out the upper sections that grip the barrel, how hard is for you to get that on?

 

I almost couldn't get mine to fit, so I heated them up and flattened them out.

 

 

 

 

 

Your barrel was already slotted at the factory for the real deal...

 

Mine wasn't, so I took a Yugo, had it chopped on a large metal band saw, then I cleaned mine up with hand files, in all it took half an hour.

Edited by Boba Debt
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It just pops on like a spring clip, then I bolt it, I can also just pop it off like a spring clip and put the original back hand guard back on.

 

Mine started out as a Yugoslavian, I have two more for monkey'n around... if I get a chance, been busy with work.

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I got the idea from MD. I modified mine after seeing MD original post. The advantage of using a Yugo retainer is that there is more room between the hand guard retainer pivoting lock and the face of the retainer than on some others, and gives you more room to cut the slot. The disadvantage is that there is no sling loop. I used an East German because it has a wide sling loop rather than the small one for a sling spring clip. The disadvantage of the East German is that the pivot holes are closer to the face, and the vertical slots need to be cut at an angle. I cut my top like MD did his. It does snap on the barrel, BUT do it as far forward as possible and push it on SLOWLY! I buggered one by whacking it on with a 1" round wood dowel to get it to pop on, and one leg snapped off.

 

retainer2.jpg

 

retainer1.jpg

Edited by imarangemaster
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  • 4 months later...

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