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steve

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Posts posted by steve

  1. Ok try this make sure the bolt is all the way forward in the carrier when you set the carrier and bolt assembly into the reciever make sure it's all the way to the rear of the reciever then push down on the bolt carrier. It wants to rotate towards the right just line it straight up and down and press down on it.

  2. Your first post third picture looks correct you should see serial numbers stamped on the bottom of both parts when lined up corectly. make sure the hammer is cocked. When you lay the assembly into the reciever move it Backwards Away from the barrel and press down the carrier should drop into place, then move it forwards towards the barrel. Hope this helps

  3. The 12 gauge really is the all purpose shotgun round because of the volume of the shell. It can be loaded with a variety of "Payloads" with enough propellant to make them effective. From number 12 dust and a light power charge for removing paint or weeding the garden, to sabots when you want to reach out and touch someone. The popularity of the round makes the price of the amunition economical. I hear someone is developing a depleated urainium slug for tank busting, and a sub kiloton yeald 12gauge warhead for when the zombies reaily get out of control.

  4. My first hunting expereance was with a Remingtion 870 and like you it felt natual to me it came up on target so fast, it was scary. Yes you can change barrels on that thing with no tools just your hands. I own a 28 inch barrel with choke inserts, a 21 inch smooth bore slug barrel and a 24 inch rifeled barrel with a scope mount. Its my do everything gun. BUT when it comes to play time you cant beat the S-12. I saw one in a store and I searched this sight to find out more before I purchased mine. If you ever buy one this is the place to find out everything you ever wanted to know about the Saiga. I learned a lot about my Sagias with the help of the members of this site.

  5. I Have a factory made rifled slug extension tube that screws onto the barrel. That and the fact that most of these things come with an open cylinder bore. Suggests to me that they are made to pump out a wide variety of lead products Slugs included. I think that the top cover is hardened to some extent so it will do more harm to you than you can do it. I just line it up and give it a light rap with the palm of my hand and it snaps into place. Have fun with it

  6. Thanks for the lnformation. The photos of the front sight post in those links is exactly what I have. I clamped my barrel and reciever Assy. into a vice and realised that I should level it side to side. Then I shot the laser down onto the barrel. I used the screw hole in the rear tang as one point and the notch in the rear sight as a second point and the center of the barrel just behind the FSB as third point. I already had the front sight block started onto the barrel and eyeballed it for center. The laser beam was verry close to center on the block. putting back together and shooting it will be the test. Thanks again for the information.

     

    NOTE: If you try this watch out for reflective surfaces, like the face of the hammer it will reflect the laser beam! :eek:

  7. I removed my FSB to attach a muzzel brake adaptor. I want to reinstall the FSB onto the barrel. So heres the catch. Out of the box the front sight pin was set off center to the left. and that is where the point of impact is. The FSB was installed canted to the right. Now I want to center the FSB on the barrel so the front sight pin is centered in the FSB and have it match the point of impact. To do this I was going to project a laser beam down the center axis of the barrel using a laser for hanging pictures on a wall (it projects a 4 to 8 foot staight line). and then line up the top of the FSB to the center axis of the barrel. Is this ok or is there better way to do this.

  8. I think one of the reasons everyone converts is that it removes a part that telegraphs the triggers movement to the hammer and tightens up the action. there is an aftermarket mfg. that makes an adjustable trigger that may improve the .308's feel. I think it's Red Star. Someone will correct me if Im wrong. The 308 like the S-12 are a little bit differet inside than the 7.62x39 and the .223 .

  9. I saw my first Saiga in a hardware store and it really caught my eye I did a web search and found this site. After reading some of the posts I purchased a S-12, I then debated for a few months about converting. I liked the Ace option you are looking at, but at the time it was a do it yourself project, Now somebody at Ace put it all together in a nice package. I finally chose to do the pistol grip conversion,based on a large part by the information the members of this website have freelly provided. I like the results of my work, It has a beter balance and is more compact I hunt in heavy brush. If you decide to convert. Buy new drillbits and center punch they are worth the cost. This website is one large throbing brain linked up through the internet ready willing and able to help you.

  10. Badz2801 and Z1500 you guys really don't know how hard it is to sit here and watch all this go down! The drool is covering my credit card numbers, and shorting out my keyboard. Three weeks argh! omygodimgonadie :cryss:

  11. I have the K-var Nato leingth stock on my S-12 and it fits me well. I have a long trigger pull 36" sleve leingth. I get a pertty good cheek weld using a low mount scope attachment with a bushnel 30mm red dot scope.

    on my 7.62 I have an Izmash scope mount that is higher than my red dot and I am saving my nickels and dimes for an Ace stock because they also have a cheek pad attachment to help raise my cheek pacement on the stock to make viewing through the scope more consistant and with the different buttpads and spacers and stock leingths Ace offers I can order what I need to fit the stock to my needs

    I hopes this helps!

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