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I am pretty sure I have one left over from when I modified an MD-20 for use in a Vepr-12 magwell. Email me your address and I'll send it to you if I can find it. My memory is very bad but I could have sworn I saw it today looking through some old parts bins.
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Hey guys. I have searched and haven’t found the answers I need. I want to add a magwell to my lynx 12 and wanted to know about the magazine conversion. Can any Saiga mag be modded by removing the front rock and lock tab and upper ribs that would interfere with the magwell? Thanks in advance
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If you're so inclined and haven't done so yet, check out Moe Zambeak's guide to conversion. It's the seventh pinned post and has a lot of good information. When I first got my S12, it was in its original (import) configuration. With the help of his post, I was able to complete the conversion to a configuration that is more user friendly, and, theoretically, won't run afoul of 922r (see the post (pinned) about 922r). It also gave me a better understanding of how it is put together an how it works.
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MN phesant hunting after knee repair
jerry52 replied to jerry52's topic in General Discussion - Any topic is welcome here!!!
Well we are back home in FL and we came home with a cooler full of pheasants. This is one of the best years we have had. Carlos our 14 year old champion black lab and 2 time cancer survivor went out just weeks after cancer surgery" demanded to go "and even though he had a hard time keeping up he still retrieved a few birds. My big brother would not have it any other way. Our dogs did well Manny, Jet and Carlos what a team. After Thanksgiving we went to Nebraska and then through the blue mountains on our way to Charleston Brought back a few guns to work on for next year . Had a great time. The wife said it was the best time we have ever had. -
As you noted yours is not converted. It still has the teeter totter trigger and the stock is probably a Tapco unit. For just a little bit of effort you can make the trigger work much better and also get a better stock configuration on the gun. Carolina Shooters Supply has some great videos on their site and they are also a great source for any parts you may need.
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Thanks guys! One of those obvious solutions my senior mind was looking too deeply for! By the way, I was one of csspecs earliest customers years ago when they started, and there is still no one making better mags!
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Maybe use an empty shell filled with a dowel rod?
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You could get a 12ga snap cap. One manufacturer is called A-zoom
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Hi folks! Haven't been on here before and not sure how to ask for advice, but here goes! I had a new MD 20 drum years ago, but it got misplaced during a move before I could use it. Recently found it again but the dummy round is missing! Is it required to function or OK without it? If required, any idea on where I can get a replacement, or, any creative approaches as to what else I could use in its place? Thanks for the help! John Gault gthomas10@neo.rr.com
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Don't know if anyone can help me, but I sure hope so! I got an MD 20 drum for my S12 years ago, and it got lost in packing and moving. Just found it again and was looking at using it, but the dummy round is gone. Do I need the dummy round for it to work, or is it functional without it? If it needs it, any idea where I could get a replacement or an alternate idea as to something else I could use to suit the purpose? Thanks! Gary Thomas gthomas10@neo.rr.com
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Thetrueway joined the community
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Joseph hidalgo joined the community
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Scott Axle joined the community
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Oh yeah, keep what you have as long as it hasn't been hacked up. This is a prime example of what I mean...
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Here is some general info about the process that I put together. I am not a lawyer and do not play one on TV. Gunfun, if you see any glaring issues with this please do let me know and I will address it. Thank you! ATF Efile info Go here, scroll all the way to the bottom and register... https://eforms.atf.gov/EForms/faces/userProfile/login.jspx?_afrLoop=194692627991162454&_afrWindowMode=0&_adf.ctrl-state=thnacpwi_4 You will need to make a decision on how you want to apply on the Form 1.Individual applicant: Some choose to do it as themselves, individual. No one else can have access to the weapon or possession of it but you in this case. When you die, someone needs to understand that there is a limited amount of time to do a decedent transfer of ownership. Technically, no one else can be in possession of it or have access to it, so it could create legal issues. I do not recommend applying as an individual unless you have no relatives that you actually like, no friends, and really don't give a rip what happens to the item after you are gone. That is about as efficiently as I can state it. OR... Trust Applicant: Most people choose to use a trust as it offers a bit more flexibility and has a beneficiary named to leave the item to in the event of your death. It is a lot more clear cut when dealing with the ATF about transfer of ownership and, as I understand it, they cannot automatically seize it if they are compelled to do that since it is part of a trust. Trustees can be in possession of the item while you are not in direct control of it. If you plan to keep the weapon in a safe and someone else has access to it, it is a good idea to name them as a trustee on the trust. You may be able to get around that access issue with a trigger lock or something else of that nature, but I am not sure and I am not a lawyer.Where to get a trust: Go to https://www.silencershop.com/catalog/product/view/id/251/s/nfa-gun-trust/category/5/ and for $129 you can have a gun specific trust created or have a lawyer do it that understands the process. You get to name it. Remember that name has to be engraved in the weapon, so keep it short. Don't make it anything like the 'John Edward Doe and Jane Elizabeth Doe Family Firearms NFA Gun Revocable Living Trust'. I have seen it done that way and it is patently stupid considering it will need to be engraved on the weapon as well as the city and state. It does not have to be your name. It can be whatever you want. Mine is evlblkwpnz trust, for example. Nice and short, unique too. They may ask you to provide a bunch of trustee names. The best thing to do is wait until you have approvals for what you want before you add any. Any trustee that you add will need to get fingerprints and passport photos done for each Form 1 and Form 4 application, so I recommend keeping the amount of trustees to a minimum (1, a good choice would be a trusted family member or very trusted friend who respects firearms, the law, and has good walking around sense) and make sure they will not drag their feet getting prints and photos done later on so the process for future applications will not take 50 forevers to complete. The trustee can be in possession of the item without you being there to babysit it and being in direct control of it. You will need to name a beneficiary for it to be a legitimate trust (as far as I know, which may be wrong), but the beneficiary does not need to be mentioned in the application process. It does not have to be a family member. I recommend making sure this person actually wants to inherit a firearm, will do the necessary legal steps to take possession of it properly and legally when you die, and will not get themselves in trouble with it. A friend who loves firearms and may not ever be able to afford a nice SBS or whatever who would truly cherish it would be a great choice. You can add all of the items you want to this type of trust, silencers, short rifles, short shotguns, money, etc. Weapon info to be submitted in the Form 1 Application to Make and Register: In section 4 of the Form 1... Box AManufacturer will be Izhmash, RussiaLook on the weapon for importer markings. Include that importer name and location info too. It is usually toward the rear of the weapon.Box BShort Barreled ShotgunBox C12 gaBox DSaiga-12Box EBarrel length will be 8.0"Box FOverall length will be 26.75"Box GSerial numberBox H This will have your individual name or trust name and location where the item/s will be kept. Examples: Individual... Your full name (YOUR CITY), (YOUR STATE) Trust... (TRUST NAME) TRUST (YOUR CITY), (YOUR STATE) Box IAny lawful purpose
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Quick edit... I already regret adding additional hot sauce.
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Long dead thread. Just wanted to thank chilireleno for the recipe. Cut it in half and did slight modification but essentially followed it . Pretty good shit!
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VernellHarri joined the community
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Proper barrel length? (for .308 Win.)
jerry52 replied to Squeaky's topic in General Discussion - Any topic is welcome here!!!
Reload! "It will make the gun worth it!" -
Looking GOOD! -
Proper barrel length? (for .308 Win.)
Squeaky replied to Squeaky's topic in General Discussion - Any topic is welcome here!!!
Thank you again Mr. Patriot! Per the middle article from Lilja barrels, I'll stick with a 26" long barrel with a heavy varmint contour and a 1:12 twist for Sierra 168 gr. SMK bullets. I think Shilen's #7 Heavy Varmint will work with an almost 1" thick muzzle diameter (.940"). I'm going for a very good target shooting rifle which I assume will be better than a typical factory rifle. I've seen video of a Savage 10 FCP-K in .308 hitting steel at 700 yards with a 24" barrel. So ... I assume a 26" barrel will impart 1,000 yard capability should I ever have the chance to try my luck at that distance. However, I'm modestly hoping for an excellent 500 yard gun. I'll make it look like an M-40A3 using a McMillan A4 gunstock not only because McMillans are high quality stocks, but because you just simply must have the "cool" factor at the gun range! I am also encouraged by how the authors of the first article mentioned using an SWFA 16x power scope too. Anyway ... I need to gradually get all the components, get the bolt/receiver trued, and go from there. My acquaintance is a serious hunter. So I think his reaction was given without knowing my intended use. A rifle with a 26" heavy barrel is probably not a good brush gun like a good ole 30-30. -
Proper barrel length? (for .308 Win.)
patriot replied to Squeaky's topic in General Discussion - Any topic is welcome here!!!
Here are a few links you'll find interesting. Very good write-up. Read me 1st. https://riflebarrels.com/the-ideal-barrel-for-a-308-tactical-rifle/ Length Vs Velocity The length you choose depends upon the requirements you need. Velocity? Long barrel. Portability? Short barrel. Etc The links above will give you much food for thought. -
1) 8", threaded for rem chokes. Keep the design of the gun simple. Don't add 10lbs of junk to it. Have a stock that is inline with a decently large footprint. Reliable is mostly a function of whether they moved the gas system properly. If they do it right, it will run any ammo above a certain energy threshold, which will be toward the hotter end of cheap trap loads and up. 2) Tromix, evlutions llc, lone star arms... 3) Get a trust, no exceptions. Just get a trust and get started. It isn't hard or scary. I do these as a pro, and you are a fool to do it without a trust. Sooner you start, the sooner you finish. Don't do a DIY trust or some random form your gunshop has on the counter. You aren't a lawyer, and neither is Jimbob at the shop. Some of the online ones are OKAY, but there are good reasons to have one made to order by someone who knows your situation, the law in your state, and does them all the time. If you get the gun before your stamp clears, some dealers with ranges will let you play with it at their range while you are waiting for the crown's permission to take it home. After you do your first stamp, you will realize that it was a nuisance to pay and weight, but it isn't as big a deal as most people think. 4) I would keep it and get an SBS. As for whether to commission or purchase- that's a question of cost and what's available at the time, and how specific you want your setup to be. Can't hurt to ask for quotes, and wait times. I see tromix builds show up surprisingly frequently from people with more money than attention span. They buy an expensive custom, shoot it a couple times, chuck it in the closet for a year or two, then get the itch for something new and hawk it for 1/3 of what it cost to get built. I would kind of expect that any builds with the red jacket label on them go for a discount now. Quality varied. Pretty good before show, not as consistent after. As with the answer on #3, sooner you start the sooner you finish. Custom orders often take a while, but that can be about even with the tax stamp wait time, so not as big a deal as you might think.
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And the right grade of steel, and the ability to precisely heat treat. ARs are easy to make because all the pressure bearing components are non serialized in USA. Those are the hard bits to make safely at home. Europe doesn't care about receivers for that reason, they care about barrels, bolts, trunions, etc. Hence serials on those parts in EU guns. Import AKs tend to have serials on both parts as a compromise to the US system. The S12 and derrivatives got approved using the system from Europe, without any thought towards making them easy to clone or remake. There's no money in that for the manufacturer, and no surplus market, since it was never a mass issued gun to turn into parts kits. Further, all the pockets in an 80% Ar receiver are vertical plunge operations. Everything tricky has already been done. An AK trunion has a lot of complex geometry that isn't just going to happen with a drill press. It would be pretty hard to measure without custom jigs, let alone make. Part of why ARs are clever, is that he borrowed johnson's clever thinking about how to make easier to machine precise lugs, then made it in two pieces, so that it is a single broaching operation which can be cleaned up on a lathe, then joined to the barrel, then heat treated as a unit.
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Proper barrel length? (for .308 Win.)
Squeaky posted a topic in General Discussion - Any topic is welcome here!!!
Hi guys: I was wondering how barrel length is determined for a .308 rifle. I've seen several lengths. The usual seems to be 24". However, I've seen a few Savage rifles with barrels as long as 28" and 30" like their F/TR rifle. I've seen a custom rifle with only a 20" long heavy bull barrel (it's muzzle diameter was a thick 1"). I think the Marines used a 25" long barrel for their M-40s. Just wondering. I ran into an acquaintance with lots of rifle building experience who inquired about my rifle project just to see how things are coming along. I had casually mentioned I was thinking about using a 26" long barrel. He thought it was nuts to get a barrel longer than 24" for a .308 rifle. I suppose it depends on what you want to do with it. If you're building a target rifle, does a longer barrel add weight so you're more stable (thus, more accurate) and recoil has less effect? Or ... is a longer barrel simply more accurate than a shorter barrel because there's more metal to dampen barrel harmonics? Using the Savage rifles as examples, I'm really curious how rifles that shoot the same cartridge have so many different barrel lengths. What reasons are there for this? I have my own assumptions, but I don't doubt I could be wrong. As usual, I'm deferring to you ... the experts ... who know more about rifles. I suppose there's a "magic" ratio of barrel length-to-thickness. Thus, that one rifle with a short barrel, but very thick, barrel. Thank you! :-) -
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Begone, SPAMMER.
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