oneobliv
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Posts posted by oneobliv
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Yeah, I have some. It just wont spot well on a black surface. It's either that or the spring guard is a hair too long and the shell casing is wedging against it when the ejector picks it up somehow. It ran flawlessly with it removed but stove piped every round with it installed.
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Had a guy bring his Saiga 12 in to the shop due to the usual "wont run walmart bulk pack stuff". The gun has the low brass reliability kit, 4 open properly sized gas ports etc. I reprofiled the hammer face and smoother out the carrier and took it to the range today.
Had a buddy watching the bolt carrier cycle for me and it turns out the damned recoil spring guard was somehow binding things up and not letting the carrier cycle back all the way. I took it off and the thing spits federal bulk pack shells about 8 feet straight left even single time.
The problem is, I can't see where the hell it's catching at and can't feel it while hand cycling the gun. There are no wear marks on the spring guard. Anyone had this be the culprit before? I could probably fix it if I just knew what was catching where. I hate to strip the paint off and slather the thing with prussian blue.
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Prefer not to take paypal due to them being hinky with firearms stuff. I make knives for a living and probably wouldn't survive a month if they closed out my account.
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No, they are all rock and lock.
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Need to get rid of these in order to buy some more toys so as of now I have
36 NIB ProMag 10 round Saiga 12 Mags: 35$ + 15$ Shipping for up 4 mags via USPS priority.
19 NIB SGM 10 rounders: 36$ + 15$ shipping for up to 4 mags via USPS priority.
Shoot me a PM with quantity. I can take payment via money order or by credit card over the phone.
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yep man, the uneveness is just a product of the way the san mai is constructed. it's not defective in any way, the hard layer of steel is just off center somewhat. it would probably be difficult to impossible to find one that was perfectly centered unless it was done by hand and surface ground that way.
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You have a pic of the line? If I am understanding what you are describing correctly:
It doesn't make any difference how close the line is to the edge really, it will vary based on the thickness of the layers and the angle of the grind on the main bevels. The difference in height of the line on either side is caused by the center core not being perfectly in the middle of the welded bar-stock or variance in the grind angle. I'm not sure how SOG does their San Mai process but it's technically a piece of harder feel welded via high heat between two softer pieces of steel. The temperature coupled with pressure causes molecular bonding.
<-custom knife maker.
Weird FTE problem
in Saiga-12
Posted
Thanks guys, I did end up just telling him to leave it off. either permanently or when shooting low brass. I tried lipstick and cound't find any source of real binding when hand cycling. Shooting it may have showed something but he was in a hurry to get it back.