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AegisDei

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Posts posted by AegisDei

  1. He did all that damage with 9mm???? I was betting AK or SKS for sure. What other round does that much damage? 7.62 is lethal with 1 round, and 2 30 round magazines and you'd reach the dead/injured count. 9mm must've taken multiple shots to a few people and therefore countless reloads.

     

    I hear about this and think about how nice it would be to be able to carry on campus. I feel like a fish in a barrel every time I step foot on school property.

  2. 1) Places to shoot!

    2) Affordable, reliable CCW in 9mm+

     

    Nearest range to has always been a minimum of an hour away. And then there's still restrictions on what I can shoot.

     

    The Kel-tec p3-at is decent, but it's .380. I don't like the 9mm as much. The Kahr is decent, but has some reliability issues occasionally and is $600. Rohrbaugh is great, but $800.

  3. What I am trying to figure out is how you are supposed to know if their our police out side? :confused:

    i'd say if the threat is outside your house, you stay inside, generally. about all you can do for yourself by popping the front door open, gun in hand is either get shot, or shoot someone unjustifiably.

    I semi-agree. However, there is an advantage to knowing the situation and what's going on. If you sit inside completely ignorant, you could be giving someone a huge advantage. There could soon be 5 people entering armed, armored, and from multiple entry points. That tips the odds in their favor b/c it will be a concerted action on their terms, not on yours. Thus, I am in favor of assessing the situation on a case-by-case basis. I'll try to know what I'm emerging into, but I also know my capabilities, my weapon's capabilities, and the applicable laws in my state. I may lose my castle doctrine defense, but it won't do me any good if I'm caught clueless and by surprise.

     

    Also, it's a better bet that I can discourage someone if I act as the aggressor. If they roll in, then I'm pretty much forced to react-shoot to kill-but I don't want to kill someone. Even with a valid self-defense claim or castle doctrine claim, it's not going to be fun. If instead I am making the decisions, then chances are I'll have the advantage b/c it will be on my terms and schedule and hopefully I'll have the element of surprise. Then there's a better chance to discourage instead of kill. If they don't want to be discouraged and make the wrong move, there's still a valid self-defense claim even if it's not based on the castle doctrine. But at least I don't have to react--instead they do, which is much better in my book.

     

    But to each their own--I'd rather know what's going on and be the one making decisions on my terms and my schedule. But I will bear in mind this lesson from Pyzik and try to spot any PO cruisers before doing so.

  4. I'd say good training. It's never fun being awoken like that and you should be proud that you reacted quickly, calmly, and correctly. All the range time, all the practicing with snap caps, and all the training comes back in a split-second even if you're not even fully awake. And I'm the type that likes to know what the hell's going on and I wouldn't leave my place without my barrel leading the way either. If cops are in a blindspot that's not your fault, but it is when you thank your lucky stars that they have as much training as we do, and even more liability. But I say "nice job."

  5. Optics are a great cure. Who needs irons when you got an HUD? :smoke:

     

    That being said, I don't trust a gun without irons. Batteries can fail, and then what??? I'd suggest that you play with different sight set-ups -- use different rear sight ramps and try different front site blocks. I believe there's a difference in height between the different front sights offered (Krebs, RusMil, etc.) and if need be you can always add extra height to the front sight post.

     

    Goodluck!

  6. The living revocable trust is a pretty easy route that several people I know have taken.

    Can you please explain this or provide me with a link to an explanation? I just don't see how this is legal...

  7. There's also a chance that the S20 won't go DD if the S12 does. It's a slim chance, but I doubt anyone will manufacture a NLFD for the S20. I am residenced in a county that won't allow me to own DDs, so I'm boned if the unthinkable were to happen. My only saving grace is that I might get to keep my S20.

  8. Topmaul will hopefully chime in here, but you can shoot with slugs held in your left hand (not in a magazine). When the time comes, drop the magazine, pull back the bolt to extract whatever shell was already in there, and then hand feed the slug. You might need to grind the ejection notch on the dust cover so it's bigger and will facilitate a top load more easily. As soon as you're done spoon feeding it, slap the next magazine in and you're good to go. If you get penalized for dropping live rounds, just squeeze them off really really quickly and you can top-load on an empty magazine.

  9. Tromix looks like a good firearm, but pricey......

    Go with Tromix...it'll save you the headache of having to do much work. It's worth every penny for the perfection received.

    i see no one mentioned the fact that ZOMBIES LAUGH AT THE SIGHT OF 20 GUAGE

    boo. Gary and I will show you what a 20ga can do. :haha:

  10. The S20 takes a little more lovin' to make it as reliable. I'd suggest not messing with the barrel length--leave it around 20" or you'll get a headache. The biggest downside is that the ammo is more expensive. There aren't domestically made high-cap magazines, but you can get your hands on some 5rnders and franken-mag them together. The up side is that it's a much tamer beast. Carrying ammo is lighter and follow-up shots are quicker.

     

    The S12 is basically ready to go from the start, and it's ammo is cheaper. There's no extra work in franken-magging magazines together--just call AGP. And you get more shot, so you don't have to be as accurate. The kick is more manageable than any other 12ga I've shot, so it's not like the recoil is a problem. And the difference between carrying 75rnds of 20ga and 75rnds of 12 gage isn't that noticeable (1.5lbs).

     

    The S20 is a more delicate gun. Takes TLC and more money to keep happy, but it's gentle in return.

    The S12 is the epitome of testosterone. It just needs food and it will be happy.

  11. Be sure that if you count the magazines as domestic parts that you have no foreign magazine (5rnd) in the vicinity of the shotgun. Once you change it from sporter to non-sporter, you can't use the originals unless your parts count is independent of the domestic magazines...unless you change 4 parts that are non-magazine related. (PG, Stock, FCG) If you do those parts, then you can use any magazine you like.

  12. *Do I have to get a new fg or can I just shift the one It came with?

    *Will a brake help? or is it just a look thing on a 12g

    *If a brake helps can one be used with a poly choke?

    Welcome to the addition.

     

    1) You're probably best off getting a new FCG. I am fairly sure that the old one won't work without some modifications. If you can do the modifications, then you're good, but it's probably just as easy to get a new one.

    2) A brake helps some, I've still not heard many reports on how much.

    3) You can get one of Tromix's vented Poly-chokes, but it won't be that effective besides as a flash-hider and to look cool. His shark brakes will help a bit more, but haven't been designed for use with a poly-choke.

     

    I'm waiting until summer, and then I will have a custom tank brake made specifically to integrate with a poly-choke. Between the brake's added weight and design, it should significantly reduce recoil. If it works as well as I hope, I'll run off a set and have them up for sale by summer's end.

  13. For a red-dot that can withstand 12ga punishment, you're looking at $130. For a good side-mount, you're looking at $50. Neither will give you the low mount, the durability, or the field of view. And I imagine that you can co-witness your optics with the c-more, which you can't do with any other mount. $250 is a steal IMO.

  14. About the shortest you can cut an S-12 (without moving the gas block) is around 11"...you will also need to drill out the gas holes quite large, over 1/8" each. Even then it probably won't run on any but the highest-powered ammo.

    For my own edification, how short can you cut a barrel back and still run low brass with opening up the gas ports but without moving the gas block? 15"? 16"? Any ideas? Thanks!

  15. Yeah, I think I will make the gas adjuster knobs and the stocks. No conversions though. Thanks for the input fellas. :donatello:

    YES!!!! I'm so sick of that damn detent pin and how ceased the threads get. I can't wait for an easy adjust with more adjustibility. I'll be eagerly awaiting the release. Thank you!!!

  16. I wanted a multi small port gas assy because I am horrible about cleaning my stuff....it needed to work when it had hundreds of rounds through it and was filthy.

    When I was prototyping the gas system, I didn't like that it was either wide-open or completely closed. I knew that when I got it to work on low brass, the 'open' setting would be too much for heavier loads and fully closed seemed to be what I would need for 3" hot rounds. There needed to be some in-between settings for micro adjustments depending on the rounds being used. The knob seemed liked the logical choice; once the gun got dirty it would be hard to turn the knob by hand, would need a screwdriver blade to turn it. Like I said, my stuff never gets cleaned, and I wanted to be able to turn it easily without having to break out a screw driver. Looks cool too.

    Any chance you might manufacture the adjustable gas plug for stock gas systems??? PLEASE? Pretty please? With buckshot on top?

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