AegisDei
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Posts posted by AegisDei
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I've been building comps for over 16 years now, and I get bunch of one off requests. Machines and time cost lots of cash, if I were to cut a oneoff comp using a $100k machine and tooling I would have to charge a min of $500 and I still would lose money. You need to make friends a machinist in your area; let him shoot your shotgun and buy him lots of beer, then you will get a deal.
One day I will post a pic of my Big S12 comp, too bad I cant bring the cost under $500 yet. For those that want to know, its like a big sound supperssor with reverse cones and the can part allmost gone...
You could also try using a Barrett 50 comp and have a gunsmith open it up and fix it with 22x.75 teeth.
IPSCGUN.COM
I'd love to see a pic of your S12 comp! That'd be awesome!!! And yes, I've been quoted right around the $600 range for a single one. Drops to about $250ea when I get 5, and about $150ea when I get 15. But I want to test the prototype before I try to run off a handful. I don't want anyone else having to pay for my designs if they don't work.
I've looked into the Barrett's, but they're $250 before gunsmithing costs, and they won't mate with a poly-choke (see below). So I decided to start from scratch.
Why 4130?? Shotgun lacks velocity and amount of gas eating brake like in .223. So, what is the reason not to use 7075 aluminium? Steel makes your saiga quite front heavy.
-JumiKuula aka JamShot
Ah, the man that motivated my obsession! Hey JamShot!!! It's been a year after I first got your input and I'm finally about to start production. A slow turn-around time, but I've spent a lot of time teaching myself to machine, learning about hydro-dynamics, and learning about compensators/silencers/etc. I'm still working on the mag-wells too...they're coming, slowly but surely.
The reasons for 4130:
1) cheap = aluminum is about 4-8x the cost. I'm already looking at spending $600 for 4130, so I'd be bumping up to $1000+ for aluminum
2) heavy = adding weight to the end of a lever arm will help reduce felt recoil and combat muzzle climb. since there's not much velocity to a shotgun load there's also not all that much pressure, so the brake won't be nearly as effective as it would for a bottleneck round. thus, adding a bit more weight will help, especially since i plan on keep the overall length fairly short.
3) easy to work on = steel is a forgiving material. it can be machined easily, to tight tolerances, it's not brittle, it's hard, and it's weldable. i plan to permanently attach it to my barrel, so i need something that can be welded onto the barrel to keep me above the ATF's legal limit.
4) same material as Poly-chokes = like yours, mine is designed to mate with a post-brake Poly-choke. this way, with the flip of my wrist i can go from wide open to x-tra full. it'd be harder to mount a 4130 poly-choke to an aluminium brake, and cost more.
Give me a call with your needs. I'm up for doing anything for the S12.I can make just about anything, and because of my intrest I'll shoot you an unbeatable deal.
Woohoo!!! I have to do some last minute design tweaks. I'm working with some engineers and we're debating whether 2 or 3 chambers is better, then I want to ensure I get the right ratios.
Have you had any thoughts of having it fabricated. I'm a sheetmetal fabricator and have been thinking of making something like that for my s-20. The expensive part of the machine work is the machine time. It would be drastically reduced this way.I thought about that, but for the reasons above I felt that 4130 would be the best bet, and I didn't think it'd fabricate easily. Additionally, it's going to be a two-piece design so that the top functions as an expansion chamber (think blow-off valve), so I need to be sure to have enough material to thread and sink a screw into. I figured sheet metal would be too thin to do that.
I'm learning as I go, so please let me know if any of you have suggestions for me: I'm open to them. I'm also starting to seriously begin the mag-well design, I just wanted to start with a brake since it's a bit cheaper/easier.
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How difficult is this? Are there any special tools needed, things I need to watch out for so I don't mar up my rifle or hand gaurd?
yep, but a gas tube with integrated handguard retainer. it's easy to install the upper handguard on that.
And should I go this route or with a sheperds crook? What is the sheperds crook and how does it work and purpose it serves? I've read and read but I can't gather straight answers on these.get a shephard's crook. much easier, you'll thank yourself everytime you fieldstrip. and it's only ~$10, definitely worth it.
Oh while I'm at it, I keep remembering questions, what are the benefits of a ported gas tube versus a no ported?keeps the gas tube cleaner and reduces recoil a tad bit. it's worth it if there's minimal price difference. just be sure to realize there's a difference between the gas block and the gas tube...you DON'T want to have to try to replace the gas block. it's a project to do that.
And how different is it to do a Saiga-12 conversion versus a rifle?S-12s are the same except for the trigger guard. you'll have to get creative here, but you can do most of the conversion without any difficulties, the only headache will be figuring out the TG.
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I'm trying to manufacture a two chamber tank-style muzzle brake, but all the prices I've been quoted are INSANE!!! I'm in no hurry, so it can be done on your own time at your leisure, you'll get paid for it, and you'd get your own two-of-a-kind muzzle brake (I'd of course have the other). All it will take is a 3-axis mill and a block of 4130 steel.
I'll provide the specs so all you have to do is plug it into a CAD program and turn your mill on = almost no work!
Please let me know if you, or someone you know, can help. Thanks!
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It's true that you can hit a golf ball 200 yards of a tee BUT it doesn't go BANG!
Nor does it go where I aim.
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I've been doing some 922r research online and there is a lot of info, but nothing real specific, so I guess I have some more to do. This stock may change it from a sporter, and that would not be good I suppose.
Yea, the ATF likes to be vague because then it gets to call the shots. With squishy rules people have to be much more cautious. However, changing to a folding stock or a PG will VERY likely take you out of the "sporter" categorization.
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any ideas on price?
I saw the price posted on another forum by atlantic firearms.
About $600 unconverted like in the picture (single stack low capacity mags).
About $900 once someone converts them to high cap friendly status.
I'll stick with my Saigas! Thanks!!!
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any ideas on price?
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aegis - maybe you have heard of the world record kill in afghanistan by a canadian sniper team using a 50bmg. the actual distance is classified, but it was over 2000 yards. you cant do that or take the enemy through a wall 100% of the time with any other round, I dont think.
holy hell. that's rediculous (and awesome). i guess there are a lot of advantages to the 50bmg, and it's probably a cheaper round than the .300s anyway (economy of scale). i'd just worry that one round would go through multple targets including civvies, but the 50 is the best combo of power and precision, so maybe good snipers can control it.
thanks for the info.
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they have been using 50bmg rounds since the first iraq war to kill the heathen enemy. check the internet. there are pictures floating around of what it does to human flesh. I think rotten.com has one of a headshot.
That's an overkill. Why not use a .300ultramag or something similar? .50bmg just seems hardcore overkill
I think it makes perfect sense to set our boys up "undercover" with like weapons and wait for the dirty heathens to surface and then shoot them with obviously the same weapon they have, just to put in thier minds that they never know who it is. Im sure the iraqi public in general is more than tired of the bullshit by now and welcomes this type of action.I agree. There's no point in being "nice" in wars. Fear, terror, dissention, these are good things in enemies. Sux how we have to play by the UN's rules whereas our enemies don't.
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+1 on go big. the bigger it is the harder to steal. Mine's only 500lbs and I've managed to move it with an appliance dolly, a truck, and a tad bit of help from a friend, so it worries me that if someone really wanted it, they'd have it.
+1 on digital. i keep most of my guns locked up and would have no chance of getting to them quickly if i ever needed it b/c i went with the tumbler safe. it's slow and tedious, and that's not while under stress.
safe's are too expensive to later upgrade. just get one and get it right. a safe's the cost of a few guns, but worth the investment. it'll last forever (unless you have to replace/upgrade), it'll protect your thousands of dollars in guns, and you'll sleep safer at night knowing your stuff is safe.
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And are they being serious? Are snipers really using 50cal rounds in an urban setting? A headshot with a 50cal would be like a watermelon and a pound of TNT. Not to mention the collateral damage that would be caused...
Can anyone confirm that they're using the 50cal as anti-personel?
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Well hello there. This is a great forum you fellas have here, very informative.
Welcome. It's a great place, but be careful--Saigas are more addictive than crack.
Our local laws are pretty lax, I can use 30rd mags, and bigger if I understand them right (which may or may not be true).Yep, if you're 922r compliant you can use whatever magazines you want including 40, 50, 75, 100 round stick or drum magazines (subject to local laws, which in NM are lax indeed)
I like the converted look, but I can get stocks with pistols grips and folders for the gun the way it is now. I'm debating the conversion at this point because of this, but I'd rather not get into moving the trigger and all just to get a certain look. It works fine now. Is there an added bonus to the conversion? Parts availablility better?The main thing about the conversion is that it helps reach 922r compliance. A 7.62 starts out with 14 foreign parts, you will want to double check which it is. So you have to replace at least 4 and watch your count if you add new parts. Using a US made FCG is 3 parts, a US made PG is one, US made stock is one, etc. I believe the common trigger drop-ins don't fit in an uncoverted rifle, so that's why people go ahead with the conversion.
Also, where do I find this 922 I keep hearing of so I can look into legality of the new folding stock I just scored?922r is posted various places on the forum, but basically you have to be sure that no more than 10 parts are foreign-made if you change your gun in such a way that it doesn't fall in the "sporter" classification.
And changing various parts with US made parts can still change its classification as a sporter. So even if you have a US made folding stock, you'd have to ensure that 10 or fewer parts were foreign.
From Vjor:
On your Saiga
you have
1 Frames, receivers, receiver castings, forgings or stampings
2 Barrels
3 Mounting blocks (trunions) only 1 front
4 Bolts
5 Bolt carriers
6 Gas pistons
7 Triggers
8 Hammers
9 Disconnectors
10 Buttstocks
11 Forearms, handguards
12 Magazine Body
13 Magazine Follower
14 Magazine Floor plate
for a total of 14 parts, you may need to install.
Hope this helps some. If not, ask more questions and hopefully someone will clarify. I'm bad at explaining/teaching, but you'll pick it up quickly.
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ya i bought it from a dealer in md brand new like this
AWESOME!!! So the rumored Saiga 30rnd magazines are officially in the US?
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FINALLY GOT MY NEW SAIGA VERY HAPPY WITH IT
Pretty gun. I love the skeleton stock! Looks great!!!
Is it 922r compliant?
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My Black Widow
I hate to be "that guy" but is that 922 compliant? Pretty gun, no doubt, but I think with a foreign magazine (unless you replaced the trigger group and piston) you're not compliant. You may want to double check just to be sure you don't get in trouble.
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Hey came out nice, I dont like tumhole stocks, but that one really looks
cool and I dont know but really looks good with the hand guard and
gas tube guard too, I mean it really looks good on the Saiga.
Thanks! I wanted it to look like a classic Russian AK, and to me the thumbholes look more "traditional/unique." I know that many of the other countries have started doing thumbhole stocks (Maadi=Egyption, SLR-95=Bulgarian, SA-85=Hungarian, NHM-90=Chinese, Romak=Romanian, etc.) but each has their own unique design and usually the lineage can be identified by the type of thumbhole stock. The PG+Stock is so much more common, I feel it doesn't say as much about the gun, but that may just be because I can't tell the difference between a SAR 1 and an AKM-47. That's not meant to insult anyone else's PG+Stock conversion, I still think they're gorgeous, I just wanted something that is more distinguishable to the common collector. A true AK connoseur probably could tell the difference, I just don't know how.
I wish I could have found a true Russian wood thumbhole, but I believe only Dragunovs and the Vepr use thumbholes. Both are more expensive (if even available) and neither would fit the Saiga receiver without modifications. So I went with the top of the line Hungarian to try to keep the haughty personality a Russian AK deserves. If my gun's mistaken for a SA-85, I won't be offended, but if someone really takes the time to notice they'll realize it's a hybrid of two of the nicest AKs made.
But there's no mistaking it for anything but top of the line. -
it did and i thought of that, but this was obviously gang bangers who did not know what was inside. i could have lost much, much more. they bypassed a very nice shotgun, for a chrome plated mossberg right next to it. bling bling
a safe is in the immediat4e future. i am about to move into a house with a sec. system, and my first purchase was to be a safe. timing is everything..
i'm sorry to hear it too. that sux. how'd it happen? were you just away at work? i'm amazed at your attitude; i'd be moping, cursing, and crying, so it's good to see you're remaining positive.
and where did you post your address? i want to make sure not to post mine there.
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I'm looking to get a bayonet for my AK. However, with the AK-74 brake I need the original long bayonet (not the shorter, modern version), which I've had a harder time finding. Any suggstions where to look? And do I need any kind of hardware--how's it mount to the lug? Thanks for any help you can offer!
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Ugh, this motherfu**er is finally done. Never again will I try another handguard conversion.
G2 FCG
US AK-74 Brake perm. attached
Pro-Mag 30rnd Magazine
Vented Gas Block with Bayo Lug
SA-85 Blonde Wood
Special thanks to Vjor for some great tips/advice, Dinzag and K-var.com for parts, WJM for the barrel threading kit, and Cobra for the offer to help which I so naively declined.
Now to work on the 12ga.
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Question #1: On a new Saiga in 7.62x39 and/or 223, can I expect that the pistol grip hole or FCG hole will be already there -- or will I have to cut these?
Likely it will be there, but there's not a guarantee. But cutting it yourself isn't too hard.
Question #2: Can anyone tell me how difficult this is to do? I have a basic drill press, and will have the ability to firmly secure the rifle. Is there anything I seriously need to worry about even with using a lot of lube and going slow?This isn't hard at all. You could do it with a hand-drill, blindfolded. Just be sure to get a very good center punch hole to start.
Question #3: Am I going to have to replace out the gas tube on either the 7.62X39 or the 223 to put on a traditional forearm?Yes
Question #4: How difficult can I expect removing the FSB and Gas block to be? I do not have access to a press, but could take it to a machinist if I had to. And how hard will it be to get them back on?This is a tough project. I'd suggest getting Dinzag's new HG retainer. That way you won't have to take the FSB or GB off. Otherwise, you'll be in for a tough time.
Question #5: Am I going to have to turn down the barrels, or are they at the correct diameter?You'll probably have to remove the barrel shroud in front of the FSB.
Question #6: Should both barrels be threaded 14X1 mm negative threads?doesn't much matter, it's whatever you want, but that is the standard thread and there are a ton of brakes made to fit it.
Question #7: Will I have to bore out the FSB for either the 7.62x39 or 223 in order to push it back an inch?why would you push it back an inch? you'd have to notch your barrel for the retaining pins, and likely borre it out just a little bit. i'd not suggest doing this...
Question #8: What are you guys thoughts on this possiblity? Think I am onto something here?go for it! innovation is what keeps this forum going.
Question #9: Can you think of anything I've missed? Am I on the right track to get'er done?nope, just get those HG retainers from Dinzag...it's too much work otherwise.
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But Rueseller has always dealt with me in an ethical and fair fashion. But as I said, that was me and my friends.
I also believe that if a part is lost at customs, he replaces it out of his pocket. Not to mention, international shipping is expensive. So the markup isn't as bad as it seems.
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Crap! Ok, the confusion is getting worse now!
Let's just start with the very basic question....... if I add that one little "muzzle brake", made in the US, to my otherwise "out of the box" Saiga and take it to the range that way this weekend with stock 10rnd mag and all, should I be "looking over my shoulder"???? Isnt a brake a brake and flash hider a flash hider?
I'd not do this. You might could argue that a muzzle brake doesn't take it out of the "sporterized" configuration that is legal to import, but I'd not risk it.
NEXT..... let's assume this formentioned US made muzzle brake is still ON the rifle, and I replace trigger assembly (3 US parts), would I THEN be cool in using US made HiCap mag's? Is the G2 trigger assembly something pretty simple to install - let's assume NO PG conversion. What would be "safe" to buy as "US Made MAG's" anyway???? I see there's some doubt about the Surefire mag's being made here.... argh.the question with surefire mags is their feeding reliability. some people swear by them, others swear against them. i think BR3 or Jeric sells G2s ready to drop into a sporterized rifle. i believe it takes a bit of modifications, but i've never tried it so I can't say for sure.
THEN later on, if I replaced stock with something not made in the US, would I still be looking at having to replace one (possibly two) MORE items with US made parts to compensate for that particular change?with DOMESTIC magazines ONLY and domestic FCG you'd be at 8 foreign parts, so you could add two foreign parts. stock and pg if you wanted.
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"Could I stick a 30rnd USA magazine in a 7.62 without converting?"
Do you have more than 10 imported parts? If so you can not.
My point exactly. The questions were meant to be rhetorical in that the answer was "no" to each. Any of the changes COULD take it out of the sporter classification and violate compliance. Same with a muzzle device. It's a two-part game:
1) You must keep it a sporting rifle if you have more than 10 foreign parts.
2) If you want to make it unsporting, then you must have fewer than 11 foreign parts.
So a high-cap magazine will likely make a rifle or shotgun unsporting. A PG definitely will make it unsporting. And a muzzle device could be argued that it shouldn't change the classification, but I'd not risk it.
The AWB has ended, but its effects will always be felt. Those "evil items" forbidden by the AWB likely are what the ATF will use to interpret what makes a sporter rifle change classification into an assault rifle...and means the difference between happy shooting and 5yrs in federal prison.
But swapping the FCG and using ONLY US magazines would drop your parts count from 14 to 8. then you could even add a muzzle break. just be sure never to let a foreign magazine near your gun.
On a side note, in looking up all these statutes I found that armor piercing bullets are legal. How cool is that? I have been misinformed for years that they were banned!
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is the muzzle brake considered the same things as a flash hider when it comes to "evil parts"??
I believe the official term is "muzzle device" which incorporates FH and brakes.
I need a machinist...
in Saiga-12
Posted
a great point...it's just shocking to see a hunk of metal that costs $600. but i do realize it takes some expensive machine time for which there is a low supply and a high demand.
i'm just glad to find some saiga lovers that are willing to help the cause.